So I've bought this kicker solenoid to put on my dominators so that when I drop it into gear I get a small idle bump ( at least that the goal ).

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ge/parts/46-74

They appear to only have one lead - assuming positive, and grounded to the carb mount.

My Latham Marine controls have only one set of wires on them for the neutral safety switch, which I believe is 12v closed loop in N and then broken when put in F or R.

Any thoughts on how I can wire this so that when I drop it in gear I energize the kicker solenoid? I'm happy to do away with the neutral safety switch if that's part of the solution..... Just hate that I have to idle my Bravos higher to keep from stalling - these kickers at $100 are worth a try to me....


Side notes so the discussion doesn't derail:

Yes, I wanted to go FI but it's not in the budget right now.
I know people hate dominators
I know some people can get dominators to work better than me
I know a different cam might solve my problems
I know just switching to 496's would solve my problems
I know some of these kickers don't have much power, but the Holley guys said it's fairly forceful so I'm hopeful it is powerful enough to push the secondary open just a little....

Might reach out to someone who has some Sterling carbed engines on how they are wired.
Mike D. showed me how they worked years ago but I never asked how they were triggered.

why is it stalling when going into gear ? whats the idle rpm

I think your going to need a normally closed relay.

I'm having to idle them about 900-1000 to keep them from stalling and I think that's too high long-term for Bravo's. I've spent hours with a vacuum gauge adjusting the four corners and this is the best I can do.

Yes, went over to the boat and got to thinking instead of using the Latham wiring since it's "reverse" of what I want to do maybe I'm better off triggering it off the bravo shift cable mount where it is simply "open" in neutral and closed the rest of the time "ie in F or R". Did Merc make a switch like that?

time to go efi and end all the idling problems.

Don't worry about budgets and EFI. The EFI itself does not even consider budgets. Converting to EFI only consists of throwing money at it.

I think you can do this with a Bosch 5 pin relay. At rest pin 30 is connected to 87A and when energized pin 30 connects to 87. You can wire the relay to be 12v switched or ground switched depending on how neutral start switch works. You would only use 4 of the 5 pins on the relay. Just make sure the power input(pin 30) is key on only.

I'll start a go-fund me for my fuel injection!!!

You might have just solved my problem.......

I think I could simply wire it so that when the neutral is energized (shifted into N) it cuts power off to the solenoid. The rest of the time (when it's epithet in F or R) it is energized.

As mentioned normally closed relay
When power is applied (vian Neutral switch) the relay opens, no power going to solenoid.
Shift into gear , relay loses power and activates solenoid.
..bring in power from ignition switch

Good thinking out of the box, let us know how it turns out