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Old 07-30-2021 | 06:12 PM
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Default Engine corrosion protection

Just wondering what you salt water guys do to your inboard engines on a regular basis. Do you spray them down with anything? I know Salt Away and others for the inner protection, but what about the outside of the engine such as oil pan and the inner transom assembly and other components?

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Old 07-30-2021 | 08:44 PM
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FWC and beyond that not sure how much other protection is needed.

Oil pan is painted, inner transom assembly is painted and there shouldn't be any salt water in the bilge. I get I little water in the bilge if it rains (comes through the cleats) but I leave the plug out when on the lift so there is only a few ounces that accumulate. I shop vac that out before we go anywhere.
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Old 07-31-2021 | 07:12 AM
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It's been my experience that if you're not using a cocktail of lighter weight anti corrosion sprays on a regular basis the best stuff I've ever found is CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor.
It's also best to nip it in the bud early , that is do it well when everything is brand new .
While I agree that the salt water should stay on the outside of the boat out here even the air is constantly saturated with salt . You don't want to see what happens to 'regular' house hardware and even rustproofed cars !
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Old 07-31-2021 | 08:07 AM
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I like the idea of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor sprayed around the engine but I am always concerned about getting it on belts ( inducing slipping), electricals, and alternator any suggestions/advice?


Last edited by F14A water jet; 07-31-2021 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 07-31-2021 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by F14A water jet
I like the idea of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor braid around the engine but I am always concerned about getting it on belts ( inducing slipping), electricals, and alternator any suggestions/advice?
I find that as long as I'm careful it's easy to avoid getting it on belts. Besides , unlike other a/c sprays it cures to a semi waxy film very quickly thus resisting flinging .
I use the lighter weight sprays for sealed or snap together electrical connectors but find it's excellent for exposed electrical connections such as under dash and house wiring terminals and battery connections and grounds.
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Old 08-04-2021 | 11:03 AM
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How's your bilge look with all that corrosion inhibitor running off the engine on to the floor? How about if you need to work on it and everything is slippery?

I assume it's more of a mess than it's worth and why I ask. School me please!
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Old 08-04-2021 | 11:14 AM
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crc 656 spray it down and wipe it down, i do it evey time i use the boat i spray the drives and transom plates also, works great doesent leave the wax film like the corrosion inhibitor or boesheild does, it will leave a slippery silicone film on stuff but it comes off pretty easy, it dosent run off the engines into the bilge unless your pouring in on way too heavy
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Old 08-04-2021 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Tractionless
How's your bilge look with all that corrosion inhibitor running off the engine on to the floor? How about if you need to work on it and everything is slippery?

I assume it's more of a mess than it's worth and why I ask. School me please!
My bilges (2 boats) are often compared to hospital operating rooms.
If I'm starting from scratch I'd put down a covering to catch the runny stuff if that was what I was using but the CRD HD corrosion inhibitor doesn't run once dry.
If I've ever had oil in the bilge it was from a leaking trim line or PS unit .
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Old 08-05-2021 | 09:27 AM
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Old 08-07-2021 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by madbouyz
My bilges (2 boats) are often compared to hospital operating rooms.
If I'm starting from scratch I'd put down a covering to catch the runny stuff if that was what I was using but the CRD HD corrosion inhibitor doesn't run once dry.
If I've ever had oil in the bilge it was from a leaking trim line or PS unit .
Gotcha thanks. Boat is currently layed up awaiting the engines going back in after transom and 1 stringer replacement. As a result the engine room is now hospital clean and want to keep it that way so I'll try the waxed product. The engines are in surprisingly good shape for being 25 years old and raw water cooled in salt for the past 6 years. They're getting wire brushed and painted where needed, then reinstalled.
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