Refinishing Merc Outdrives
04-23-2025 | 03:38 PM
#1
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Refinishing Merc Outdrives
About 20 years ago, Mercury had a suggested procedure for complete refinishing their drives. as 2025, all of those products are no longer available. I've searched Mercury's web site but cannot find an updated procedure. Does anyone know what they recommend for Paint, Primer etc? Or maybe have a suggestion using high quality, long lasting products? I want to do this right.
TIA Einar
TIA Einar
Last edited by viking60; 04-23-2025 at 03:41 PM.
04-26-2025 | 08:17 PM
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04-28-2025 | 10:43 AM
#4
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From: York Haven, PA
I'm getting ready to redo my transom assembly with the following process.. I'm not sure if its the same one your talking about but most of the materials are still available but some names have changed.
1. Blast to remove existing paint down to bare aluminum
2. Clean with water to remove any residual blast media and paint
3. Mix 1 part Bonderite C-IC 33 (used to be called alumiprep 33) with 2 parts water and brush on making sure you hit everywhere.. I think you can also spray but I'd be nervous about getting this stuff airborn.
4. Rinse to remove etching chemical
5. Brush on full strength Bonderite M-CR 1201, and keep brushing on to ensure it doesn't dry. It only takes a couple minutes for the conversion coating to work its magic
6. Rinse off parts.
At this point, the aluminum surface has been converted to an "inert" surface which will readily accept paint and you don't have to immediately paint as the surface won't oxidize like aluminum normally does. Thats what typically cause coatings to fail on aluminum.
I fully understand if you don't want to go this route as its kind of a pain in the arse, but I think this is the most bulletproof option for painting drives and transom assemblies. After this you can pretty much use whatever paint you want, but I'd recommend at least an epoxy primer.
1. Blast to remove existing paint down to bare aluminum
2. Clean with water to remove any residual blast media and paint
3. Mix 1 part Bonderite C-IC 33 (used to be called alumiprep 33) with 2 parts water and brush on making sure you hit everywhere.. I think you can also spray but I'd be nervous about getting this stuff airborn.
4. Rinse to remove etching chemical
5. Brush on full strength Bonderite M-CR 1201, and keep brushing on to ensure it doesn't dry. It only takes a couple minutes for the conversion coating to work its magic
6. Rinse off parts.
At this point, the aluminum surface has been converted to an "inert" surface which will readily accept paint and you don't have to immediately paint as the surface won't oxidize like aluminum normally does. Thats what typically cause coatings to fail on aluminum.
I fully understand if you don't want to go this route as its kind of a pain in the arse, but I think this is the most bulletproof option for painting drives and transom assemblies. After this you can pretty much use whatever paint you want, but I'd recommend at least an epoxy primer.
04-28-2025 | 02:46 PM
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I'm getting ready to redo my transom assembly with the following process.. I'm not sure if its the same one your talking about but most of the materials are still available but some names have changed.
1. Blast to remove existing paint down to bare aluminum
2. Clean with water to remove any residual blast media and paint
3. Mix 1 part Bonderite C-IC 33 (used to be called alumiprep 33) with 2 parts water and brush on making sure you hit everywhere.. I think you can also spray but I'd be nervous about getting this stuff airborn.
4. Rinse to remove etching chemical
5. Brush on full strength Bonderite M-CR 1201, and keep brushing on to ensure it doesn't dry. It only takes a couple minutes for the conversion coating to work its magic
6. Rinse off parts.
At this point, the aluminum surface has been converted to an "inert" surface which will readily accept paint and you don't have to immediately paint as the surface won't oxidize like aluminum normally does. Thats what typically cause coatings to fail on aluminum.
I fully understand if you don't want to go this route as its kind of a pain in the arse, but I think this is the most bulletproof option for painting drives and transom assemblies. After this you can pretty much use whatever paint you want, but I'd recommend at least an epoxy primer.
1. Blast to remove existing paint down to bare aluminum
2. Clean with water to remove any residual blast media and paint
3. Mix 1 part Bonderite C-IC 33 (used to be called alumiprep 33) with 2 parts water and brush on making sure you hit everywhere.. I think you can also spray but I'd be nervous about getting this stuff airborn.
4. Rinse to remove etching chemical
5. Brush on full strength Bonderite M-CR 1201, and keep brushing on to ensure it doesn't dry. It only takes a couple minutes for the conversion coating to work its magic
6. Rinse off parts.
At this point, the aluminum surface has been converted to an "inert" surface which will readily accept paint and you don't have to immediately paint as the surface won't oxidize like aluminum normally does. Thats what typically cause coatings to fail on aluminum.
I fully understand if you don't want to go this route as its kind of a pain in the arse, but I think this is the most bulletproof option for painting drives and transom assemblies. After this you can pretty much use whatever paint you want, but I'd recommend at least an epoxy primer.
I would use a catalyzed paint. Leaves the finish super hard.
04-30-2025 | 12:07 AM
#6
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 833
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From: Paducah,Ky
Use the proper procedure for removing existing paint, apply self etching primer, apply filler primer, sand primer smooth then use single stage black paint. The finish is only as good as the prep work. I have always had a better than factory finish due to very good prep work.
