So many options, so what 525 cam works best for a stock HP500 Carb motor? So many "stages" and such with no dyno sheets to tell. Curious what others have done. Its a 1997 motor with stock heads at machine shop now getting redone.

There is only one 525efi cam.

Ok. I guess I saw how Teague worded as a "Stage 2" so figured it was different than say COMP Cams 01-446-11. Just wanted to make sure Im getting the correct one.

Also, are the Johnson 2510r lifters still decent for these motors? Stock pushrod length still correct?

Thanks!

Are these the same cams? Why is Teagues advertised exhaust 304 when all the others are 297?

Need to get one ordered soon. Heads be back in a week or two.

Comp cams and many others use .006” for seat duration. Few companies, like Crane did, use .004” for seat duration. Crane made the Mercury Blue Motor cams. You’ll have to ask them (Teague) , but That is probably what Teague uses for seat duration.

..020 is generally the advertised duration spot. .050 is the holy grail. Unless you've studied cam profiles it's hard to comprehend. One cams advertised duration may be different than another, but it have the same duration as each other because of ramp profile. Most have their own ramp profiles.

Google Summit cam timing tool. Fill in the blanks and at the bottom you will get an overlap.number. Lots of overlap sounds good, but creates reversion at low speeds. TMI info I know, but stay to at least 114 degrees of LSA. Lower creates too much overlap. A factory mercury engine could come with a LSA 118 or higher. I come from a car racing engine background and a boat needs a good bit of exhaust duration due to restriction on the exhaust side. The cam I glanced at with 276 and maybe 288 at .050 looked good. Overlap less than 23 degrees is a guess. Use the cam calculator to measure it

Crane Cam 139651 was the original part #

On solid cams, but not on hyd and hyd roller cams.
Please read my response above. It has correct info when talking hyd/hyd roller cams .

Ok so I will order cam from Teague just to be safe.

In addition, I already have Comp 929 (iirc) valve springs. Upon teardown of heads machine shop said I had an inner broken. Boat has 380hrs on it. Would going back to the Comps scare you? Trying to debate going with those since I already have or going with Isky Tool Shops. Also are the stock pushrods in these chormoly already? All look great and debating if I need to replace those as well. I tend to overthink **** and just trying to get real world experience so its not a 200hr maintenance issue anymore.

Thanks!