Bravo lower shift cable for jackshaft application?
#1
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So, here's the story... I am currently rebuilding a 1978 Wellcraft Nova into a center console with a small block remote mounted via jackshaft.
I'm at the point where all structural has been completely replaced and I am mounting hardware to facilitate rigging decisions.
I've now discovered that the lower shift cable on the Bravo drive (which I sourced here) is 6 or 8" too short to reach the remote mounted engine. The jackshaft is standard length mercruiser shaft (also sourced here).
The existing cable is 57" from transom plate to the end. But I do not know how to measure it properly.
Best I can tell, standard Bravo lower shift cables are about 70" (technical details seem a bit spotty).
What I dont know is how they are correctly measured.
So, the question is, is there a special part # for lower shift cables in a remote mounted application? My google-fu has been unable to locate any reference to that possibility. Or has the current shift cable been shortened to better fit its past application?
Is ~70" a simple one end to the other measurement?
Thank you,
Steve
I'm at the point where all structural has been completely replaced and I am mounting hardware to facilitate rigging decisions.
I've now discovered that the lower shift cable on the Bravo drive (which I sourced here) is 6 or 8" too short to reach the remote mounted engine. The jackshaft is standard length mercruiser shaft (also sourced here).
The existing cable is 57" from transom plate to the end. But I do not know how to measure it properly.
Best I can tell, standard Bravo lower shift cables are about 70" (technical details seem a bit spotty).
What I dont know is how they are correctly measured.
So, the question is, is there a special part # for lower shift cables in a remote mounted application? My google-fu has been unable to locate any reference to that possibility. Or has the current shift cable been shortened to better fit its past application?
Is ~70" a simple one end to the other measurement?
Thank you,
Steve
#2
As far as I know there is only 1 bravo shift cable. Sounds like you will have to re-mount the shift bracket if it doesn't reach. I just measured a new one, the core is 70" end to end.
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/merc...523-cable-assy
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/merc...523-cable-assy
#3
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Thank you for your reply. Interestingly, I tried to call yall for advice this morning.
I've also re-measured several times today, trying to add the portion inside the transom and what I could get for measurement outside the transom (in the gimble housing). Im coming up close enough to 70" to now be convinced that i have a standard 70" length.
So, question revision...
How do you guys with triple IOs relocate your center drive shift bracket? Does anyone have pictures they can to share?
Thank you,
Steve
I've also re-measured several times today, trying to add the portion inside the transom and what I could get for measurement outside the transom (in the gimble housing). Im coming up close enough to 70" to now be convinced that i have a standard 70" length.
So, question revision...
How do you guys with triple IOs relocate your center drive shift bracket? Does anyone have pictures they can to share?
Thank you,
Steve
#5
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I've been outside looking at it since my last post and had pretty much decided to build an extension bracket to bolt on the stock exhaust location and give me the 6-8" needed. I may still do something like that to keep it out of my bilge (Im adding a bulkhead behind the engine in an attempt to keep it dry and salt free), but I may go with your suggestion for simplicity. God knows I make a lot of simple things much harder than they need to be

Thank you for the picture and recommendation. Ill probably take it!
Last edited by Monteria; 03-26-2026 at 01:49 PM.
#6
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From: SW Ohio
That certainly seems like the simple solution!
I've been outside looking at it since my last post and had pretty much decided to build an extension bracket to bolt on the stock exhaust location and give me the 6-8" needed. I may still do something like that to keep it out of my bilge (Im adding a bulkhead behind the engine in an attempt to keep it dry and salt free), but I may go with your suggestion for simplicity. God knows I make a lot of simple things much harder than they need to be
Thank you for the picture and recommendation. Ill probably take it!
I've been outside looking at it since my last post and had pretty much decided to build an extension bracket to bolt on the stock exhaust location and give me the 6-8" needed. I may still do something like that to keep it out of my bilge (Im adding a bulkhead behind the engine in an attempt to keep it dry and salt free), but I may go with your suggestion for simplicity. God knows I make a lot of simple things much harder than they need to be

Thank you for the picture and recommendation. Ill probably take it!
I did something very similar. I put it on my transom and just let the cable length(s) be the final placement criteria. I didn't have to change or modify any cables.
Thanks. Brad.
#8
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Research indicates that is a shift interruptor switch (or one of the variants used in Alpha drives and MPI engines), a relic from the MPI/Alpha combo that I acquired it with.
Research further indicates that Bravo drives do not require a shift interrupter switch, but MPI engines use an alternative to inform the PCM.
It seems that Bravo applications with carbed engines use no switch (besides an optional neutral indicator to kill the key start position).
That, and the overall simplicity of the carbed/bravo combo is pushing me toward a carb rebuild/replacement.
Can anyone confirm that the above is all an accurate understanding?
Also, I might as well also ask now... I know most of you go-fast guys run carb motors. Im leaning that direction for 2 reasons. One, simplicity. Two, reliability. It seems that with an MPI, there is more to go wrong and when it does you are dead in the water. With a carb motor, anything that happens on the water should lend itself to being McGivered at least well enough for a return to port. That also mirrors my experience with truck motors over the last 30 years. And, I guess I can add cost as benefit #3 to carb motors...
Does that jive with yalls experience?
Research further indicates that Bravo drives do not require a shift interrupter switch, but MPI engines use an alternative to inform the PCM.
It seems that Bravo applications with carbed engines use no switch (besides an optional neutral indicator to kill the key start position).
That, and the overall simplicity of the carbed/bravo combo is pushing me toward a carb rebuild/replacement.
Can anyone confirm that the above is all an accurate understanding?
Also, I might as well also ask now... I know most of you go-fast guys run carb motors. Im leaning that direction for 2 reasons. One, simplicity. Two, reliability. It seems that with an MPI, there is more to go wrong and when it does you are dead in the water. With a carb motor, anything that happens on the water should lend itself to being McGivered at least well enough for a return to port. That also mirrors my experience with truck motors over the last 30 years. And, I guess I can add cost as benefit #3 to carb motors...
Does that jive with yalls experience?
Last edited by Monteria; 03-29-2026 at 09:34 AM.





