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chardt 04-21-2012 02:28 PM

you might want to try finding a reel short-square 90 degree fitting and see if you can thread it in the midsection without hitting the pan. The picture of the two piece 90 I sent you is what skater put on and they had to lift the powerhead. (the blue and chrome plated one) Good luck.

Nice Pair 04-21-2012 03:48 PM

Try and find the fittings in stainless and use a good anti-sieze. The anodized fittings will rot and sieze to the adaptor plates and removing them can become quite a challenge. Please dont ask how I know this.
b.t.w. "Awesome" job on the boat.

davidmercury 04-23-2012 10:12 AM

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Carl, I liked the idea of the feed lines running across the midsection clamps instead of drooping way down and then up to attach to the fitting in the powerhead adapter plate. Alot cleaner looking.

davidmercury 04-23-2012 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by Nice Pair (Post 3669536)
Try and find the fittings in stainless and use a good anti-sieze. The anodized fittings will rot and sieze to the adaptor plates and removing them can become quite a challenge. Please dont ask how I know this.
b.t.w. "Awesome" job on the boat.

Thanks for this NP, I know what you mean about that, the original fittings that I removed were missing quite a few threads due to corrosion

chardt 04-23-2012 08:53 PM

David,

Skater installed the chrome platerd brass fittings I sent you a picture of. I really wasn't concerned about running aluminum since I don't boat in salt water, but NP has a good point.

davidmercury 04-28-2012 05:41 PM

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It was time for me to make the hoses that run from the thru hull water pickups on the bottom of the bilge up to the waterblock located over the tunnel in the back of the bilge.
Since I'm running merc 2.5s I decided to stick with AN 16 size hose and fittings. I'm using Jeg's nylon braided SS reinforced Pro-Flow hose, as its light weight but strong enough. I chose the Jeg's nickel-plated AN fittings for inside the bilge. I saw a nifty tool to help with threading the hose ends after cutting into the fitting. I remember in times past when I would be making hose assemlies that were the stainless steel hoses with the frayed ends, and the difficulty that would arise when trying to insert the frayed end into the fitting. (its called the Koul Tool)

davidmercury 04-28-2012 05:55 PM

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the Koul Tool definately made it easier to join the hose to the fitting. I think that with the nylon braid, it was overkill and not necessary. If you are using stainless steel hose though, I'd reccommend it.
After connecting the hose, I used some antiseize on the threads, and a light coating of oil on the insides of the hose. This was a good thing when it came time to thread the two pieces of the AN fitting together with the hose attached. With the 16 AN size, it took quite a bit more effort to tighten everthing snug. I used a wrench seen in the photo that was made to minimize damaging the surface of the fittings

davidmercury 04-28-2012 06:05 PM

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after assembling two straight fittings on two separate sections of hose I attached one end each to the respective end of the water block and tightened to snug so that I could get an accurate measurement as to where to cut the hose to proper length. There's nothing like cutting one too short and having to throw an expensive piece in the trash

davidmercury 04-28-2012 07:56 PM

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next I decided to install the trim pumps up under the shelf directly in front of the transom. Here are some pics of the port side

davidmercury 04-30-2012 05:35 PM

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I've been putting it off, but now needed to bite the bullet and buy the optimas
31M


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