36 Skater Project
#421
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 39
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From: West Michigan
you might want to try finding a reel short-square 90 degree fitting and see if you can thread it in the midsection without hitting the pan. The picture of the two piece 90 I sent you is what skater put on and they had to lift the powerhead. (the blue and chrome plated one) Good luck.
#422
Try and find the fittings in stainless and use a good anti-sieze. The anodized fittings will rot and sieze to the adaptor plates and removing them can become quite a challenge. Please dont ask how I know this.
b.t.w. "Awesome" job on the boat.
b.t.w. "Awesome" job on the boat.
Last edited by Nice Pair; 04-22-2012 at 10:58 AM.
#424
Thanks for this NP, I know what you mean about that, the original fittings that I removed were missing quite a few threads due to corrosion
#426
It was time for me to make the hoses that run from the thru hull water pickups on the bottom of the bilge up to the waterblock located over the tunnel in the back of the bilge.
Since I'm running merc 2.5s I decided to stick with AN 16 size hose and fittings. I'm using Jeg's nylon braided SS reinforced Pro-Flow hose, as its light weight but strong enough. I chose the Jeg's nickel-plated AN fittings for inside the bilge. I saw a nifty tool to help with threading the hose ends after cutting into the fitting. I remember in times past when I would be making hose assemlies that were the stainless steel hoses with the frayed ends, and the difficulty that would arise when trying to insert the frayed end into the fitting. (its called the Koul Tool)
Since I'm running merc 2.5s I decided to stick with AN 16 size hose and fittings. I'm using Jeg's nylon braided SS reinforced Pro-Flow hose, as its light weight but strong enough. I chose the Jeg's nickel-plated AN fittings for inside the bilge. I saw a nifty tool to help with threading the hose ends after cutting into the fitting. I remember in times past when I would be making hose assemlies that were the stainless steel hoses with the frayed ends, and the difficulty that would arise when trying to insert the frayed end into the fitting. (its called the Koul Tool)
#427
the Koul Tool definately made it easier to join the hose to the fitting. I think that with the nylon braid, it was overkill and not necessary. If you are using stainless steel hose though, I'd reccommend it.
After connecting the hose, I used some antiseize on the threads, and a light coating of oil on the insides of the hose. This was a good thing when it came time to thread the two pieces of the AN fitting together with the hose attached. With the 16 AN size, it took quite a bit more effort to tighten everthing snug. I used a wrench seen in the photo that was made to minimize damaging the surface of the fittings
After connecting the hose, I used some antiseize on the threads, and a light coating of oil on the insides of the hose. This was a good thing when it came time to thread the two pieces of the AN fitting together with the hose attached. With the 16 AN size, it took quite a bit more effort to tighten everthing snug. I used a wrench seen in the photo that was made to minimize damaging the surface of the fittings
Last edited by davidmercury; 04-28-2012 at 08:33 PM.
#428
after assembling two straight fittings on two separate sections of hose I attached one end each to the respective end of the water block and tightened to snug so that I could get an accurate measurement as to where to cut the hose to proper length. There's nothing like cutting one too short and having to throw an expensive piece in the trash
Last edited by davidmercury; 04-28-2012 at 06:15 PM.


