Good find Lightspeed. I was looking in rub rail, but there it is in trim / moulding. Thanks.
Thanks Sam. I just need 3 good sticks. May be a booger to ship. This stuff looks pretty stout on the boat, but when you have a 10' piece in your hands it's very flimsy.

Flight, Just sandwich the sticks between some 1"x3" pieces of wood. That worked for me when I shipped some to New York from Mich. They made it without incident. Be sure to put FRAGILE and DO NOT BEND on the pack FYI.............. Good luck with her :)

Anyone know where I can pick up a couple sets of these stainless transom plates. I want to leave these on the 32. I see some have them and some dont. Looks like a good idea for a painted hull.

Just go to a metal shop and have them cut some flat stock for you. Make sure you get them polished!!!! A must for a nice look and no rust stains.

I have three in my shop from my 28. The fourth in on my duck boat..if you have a junk SS plate about that size for my duck boat I can hook you up.

Maybe we should start a Skater swap shop thread!

I'm not quite sure how to take this one Sam. HaHa! More coffee maybe...

OOOPs! Guess I should wait until the caffeine kicks in before I post!:lolhit:

Ok, we had a very busy summer with very little free time. 28-1 has been on the back burner.

Time to get back to work. Parts are starting to flow in. Here we go.

Spare gear cases

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Seating options found local, go figure.

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The cover was a pleasant surprise. Needs a few repairs, but very usable for time on the lift.

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Why do all you guys have such clean shops??? Mines not happy unless you have to crawl over something to get to the boat or look 15 minutes to find a ratchet.

you could ship those rails in a pvc tube

Did you sell the 32?

No, no, Sam, I have a wife too.:picard1:

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Another good idea.

Yes she sold. She is still in my shop, But paid in full and headed to Havasu soon I hope.

FP, Time to get to work. Let's get started on the 28. My wife's stuff stays out of the workshop. That is why it is away from home and she has NO key! :party-smiley-004:

Glad to hear you sold the boat. Looking forward to the build!

Well I have two of the exact same recliners in my man cave. The boss forbid the recliners in the new house 18 years ago. So to be a happily married guy I watch my boxing down stairs in "my" recliner.

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The work out epuipment is obviously hers.

I'm ready Ron. I'm replacing the analog/mechanical guages with new. You get that blank spot to the left. I really like that virb gadget, and lets do some bluetooth tunes. JL's? Amps? I'm still torn on VV, but will at least add a couple of the small square Smartcraft guages.

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Never mind that sissy beer in Craig's pic. If it was me it would be Lite "horse piss"...

FP, you need to experience the VV thing, if you haven't. Having all the pertinent data on one screen is great, IMO. :cool-smiley-026:

Glad you've found time to make some progress! Get it done by May for the 200 and I'll make a run to a local horse stall so there will be plenty of "lite" in the fridge here at the house for you! Lol

FP
Send me your number and we can discuss what you want. I would recommend at least the VV4.5. It will do both motors and provide NMEA 2000 data to the GPS you install also.

I knew that would bring you out of hiding... Hoping to make Tickfaw next year. If the 28 isn't ready, I'll have the red tritoon with two 300x motas. Hmmm.:eek:

Good talking to you today Ron. I'll get my list together.

:lolhit:Just be sure you have important things like motors before Ron gets into your budget:lolhit::lolhit:

He's the man my stuff works great!

Ok, so does a 28 have a 12* transom or a 16* transom?

Santa came a little early for me today. The sticker says Electronics Unlimited. Must be the good stuff.

Thanks Ron, one more coming for this order and we will get to the details.

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"Nice"

Got to do a little fitting up last night for the race hatch to permanant hatch conversion. The race hatch fits surprisingly snug, so I will need to do a little "reduction" so it dosnt mar the new finishes on the rare occasion it will be installed.

The race hatch will be cut to 24-30 inches (havent decided yet) to provide a permanent rear hatch to bring this hull to a newer look, and move the rear seat forward. I have also figured out a way to salvage the usability of the front portion of the hatch so that the rear seat can be removed and the front section of the race hatch can still be installed for giggles if need be. A couple of simple stainless brackets should work fine for front hatch attachment.

The rear bench in the pic will also be brought into the 21st century after mock-up.

Parts are still flowing in, but more to order after Christmas.

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Not to hijack a thread but how do we turn the pics if they come up sideways?
It is always frustrating when posting. I be Noli knows how to do it.
NOLI where are you when we need you. You are the king of positing pics.

Man I wish I knew. On my Ipad when you click the pic they right themselves. I reduced the size this time to see if that would help, but it didnt. Hopefully I have a new Ipad Air under the tree and this wont be an issue in the future.My Ipad is the antique model. I could use my photobucket, but it's a PITA. Noli uses photobucket i believe and the pics are huge and right.

Questions for the night.

Where can I get a set of the Stainless hood/hatch pins that Skater uses. I have one set (thanks Steve) but need another set?

What do you guys think about these latches? Very cool. Take a look at the video.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick-Latch/65...GGsaAp2Q8P8HAQ

I cut my race hatch and moved the rear seat up also. I used a electric screw jack to avoid the need for the pins. Plus the hatch can not be opened unless you know where the switch is. So I turn off the batteries, close the hatch, and it is the theft deterrent. I have only off/on ignition switches, no keys. The screw jack holds the hatch very tight against the rear seat, no vibration. No pins to scratch the boat or lose

I might have the old factory pins if you need them.

You know, I have always wondered why anyone would deal with the hassles of these dang pins. The ones I linked above wouldn't be to bad but electric would be so much better. Can you please link the actuator/jack you used, and how did you fasten it to the top of the tunnel, if at center.

I had no idea your 28 was an early model. Good job on the mods. Your work is amazing.

If there is any way I could talk to you about the conversion that would be great. Could save me some time in the long run. PM me your phone number if possible and I will give you a call tomorrow. I've been struggling with hatch size, and seat placement. To much to type. I guess this means you built a seat base as well. Yep, I need to talk to you.

If you still have those pins I will need a set for the race hatch for quick install/detach. I don't mind buying them and having them shipped.

You can't !

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If you can make my old iPhone 4 take better pictures, we in bidness.:drink:

Thanks Steve.

I will look for the pins. I built the mounts from aluminum. This is what it looks like now.

How does the hatch open if the batteries go dead? Is there some way to manually open it?

Yes, remove the two 5/16 hinge bolts, lift rear of hatch, rotate back.

fixed it for you

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.


FP,

Just an FYI, Larry built a cooler into his hatch.


Photo Credit: Larry
http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSCN0544.jpg

I remember that Noli. Larry has skills that I do not have.

,


Yes Larry is gifted.

And as you already know, he'll be boring his own outboard engine blocks as described from the other forum which I will not spell out , but use its initials S&F :)





.

Haven't had much time in the shop over the holiday's, but I have been doing some shopping. Ordered me a new Aluminum trailer, 300x powerhead, and another sporty gear case.

Painter is on my tail about getting it to him ASAP. I may have to do the dash layout after paint and go ahead and let him do his thing.

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