28-1
 

Finally got me a 28.(Craig made me do it) Heres the flightplan.

Let the logistical nightmare and sleepless nights begin.

De-rig 32A.
300x motors serviced. All fuel and oil delivery components rebuilt or replaced including hoses.
Sell 32A.
De-rig 28-1. 2.5 260's
Compression and leakdown on 2.5's.
Sell 2.5's.
Strip 28-1 interior, guages, hull fittings, rub rail, everything.
28-1 to paint.
Trailer to sandblast, rework brakes, bunks and carpet, out to paint. (it has very nice tires BTW)
Design and fit new interior.
Accumulate new parts for re-rig............
Install mild stereo.
Re-rig 28-1

Goal: Boat to be in the water July 4th, 2015

Be nice on the flaming...its just a goal.:cool-smiley-011:

Spread the word on the 32A and the 2.5's that will be for sale soon.

Please email me info and photos on the 32' Ryan at KineticAnimation dot com

Sounds like a plan for sure and you better get busy!!!!!! LOL

Will do.

Subscribed! We will expect lots of progress reports and pics and congrats again. I had the money but couldn't talk myself into having two fully rigged cats at once.

Like your Plan a lot.
I didn't realize I had put undue pressure on you to buy it :hitfan:

Nothing wrong with two cats I'm lol

let me know that you got the emails Ryan.

tweested me arm ya did . (said in his best Irish accent)

The wife is leaving town this friday with our nieces for ten days on the beach. That gives me 4 full days and 6 evenings of playing boat rigger to tear this thing apart.

did you find someone to get inside and hold back up on all the nuts in the rubrail LOL

should have sold the 300x,s and put the 400 merc on that 32a would like yo see how that would run

got em, went to spam, of course. Will forward them on. Beautiful piece!

For real. That's half the reason I had kids!:lolhit::lolhit:

Hard to believe those rub rails are thru bolted. Pete must have some elfs helping in the shop.

The kids have done more than one bow light. Time to start on my grandkids now Skate. Nut driver and and flashlight makes Santa very happy.

I think its a perfect platform for the 400's. I would like to see it too.

Congratulations!

Thanks Larry. How is your 28 coming along?

Slowly but surely!

Congrats!!!! If you want to drive a 28 with a windshield on it find me or Chris when he has it and drive it. Either way the 28s a cool boat but I just can't get over how much I love it with a windshield on it.

Jim, did the windshield affective attitude of yours?

I got all of the interior and most all of the hull hardware off the boat today and yesterday evening. Gauges
Come out tomorrow.anyone got any great tips for for marking the wires for replacement. I'm going to try pics and color coding. How do you riggers do it?

Had my painter come to my shop yesterday and check her out. He says it's a three week job depending on how crazy I go. He will put me in the front of the line as soon as I pull it to him.

FP if you are using the standard Mercury 8 pin wire harness and are going to stick with analog gauges it is easy. No need to mark them. We can provide color code when you are ready to start rewiring the boat.
What model year is the 300x's. You may be able to go to smartcraft and make it easy.

The X's are 2003. I have a couple of round Smartcraft guages ( tachs) with the cable that came with them but I won't be using them. I have room for 2 of the small square ones like Zero has in his dash.

Regarding the color code. I'm not sure this boat was rigged per a code (1992). Some of the wiring looks pretty half assed really, some not so bad.
The boat was re rigged with all Livorsi guages in 2008.

This is a pic of the port tach. It's not too bad. As far as 8 pin, I assume you are talking about connecting the on board harness to the motors. The guages just have to be removed for paint.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]538597[/ATTACH]

I have no idea why my pics keep rotating like this. Anyone know why this is happening?

assume you are pulling all the old wire out?

Your pictures will be enough, purple- 12vdc ignition, blk -ground, blue- lights, all the same on all gauges. Then the only wire left is the sender. Gray- tach, etc.
The new gauges from Livorsi are Poor Quality, the rims pull off, made in China.

Yes it did. It made it run flatter and more stable. It's an aerodynamic change to the boat and it works. If I didn't have so much time in a 28 I wouldn't believe it but it really makes it a better ride. Not to mention it keeps the wind out of your face .

No i dont see any problems so far with the existing dash wiring. I will be pulling anything that has been abandoned over the years. Looks like a lot of stuff under there that is no longer needed.

ZP,

what gauges do you recommend?




.

If you go with the vessel view go ahead and pull it all out! It is better to start fresh than have a cluster of crap.....
You need to also check and see if the 300x motors on the 32 have a smartcraft gauge on the dash. You will need a special harness to make it work.

DR, The 32 does not have the smartcraft gauges but came with the gauges and the harness that have never been installed. Will the 2003 X motors work with a VV, or do I have to stay with the earlier Smartcraft stuff.

It should work. I was told from 2002 on the 300x motors were smartcraft ready. My engines had a harness but it did not work. Had to send my ECU's to Mercury and through a special connection was able to get the to reflash the ECU's. Once I got them back all was good.
If you look inside the motor cowling on the stbd side you should see the smartcraft 10pin plug. Make sure it is on the motor.
I can tell you what you need from there.

Yes, they are smartcraft ready. I powered them up to confirm hours (actually 26 minutes) when I first got the 32. I used the a jumper box direct to power input (main 12v connect), and the 10 pin plug to for the info. I have the 10 pin cables for rigging, just dont like the smartcraft gauges that I have.

Use the standard 8 pin harness for the key switch, kill switch and neutral safety only. You will need 2ea blue can-buss smartcraft cables with terminators built into one end. That will plug into the engine. You will need a connecting block 6 port for under the helm. That is where both motors and the vessel view will go to.

Progress report. I haven't been able to spend as much time on the 28 as I wanted, but moving along. Ive been real busy at w*rk.

Hull is pretty much stripped. Interior, Gauges, hull fittings, rub rail, and some of the old rigging is removed.

I'm ready to pull the 2.5s and it looks like they are sold on the first day listed at S&F. I'm supposed to get a deposit tomorrow.

I'm pretty firm on a paint scheme and interior. Painter is just waiting on me.

It's good to see everyone else's projects moving along. I've been checking in.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]539592[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]539593[/ATTACH]

Does anyone know where to get the Skater alum. Rub rail? Peter says taco metals but our profile wasnt listed, and they dont sell retail. I haven't tried West Marine yet. Anyone?

FP send me a small section. I believe they are down here. I am sure I can get some either thru my company or one of our OEM customers.

Yep, Sunny Miami. Says they sell through West. Let me look around a little. Having 2 or 3 10' sticks of this rub rail shipped will be like shipping wet noodles. Guess I should plan on replacing it all.

None of these profiles exactly match mine. Let me try to get a good pic and some measurements. .

http://tacomarine.com/cat--Aluminum-...uminum_rr.html

Sold the 2.5s today. Rigged a 20' chain hoist to the beams in the shop. Worked great.

http://tacomarine.com/cat--Trim-Moulding--trim.html its on this page

FPC if mine is still good off the 308 you are welcome to it. Text me next Saturday I'll check on it while I'm up there