24 x 7 Leaning??????
 

I have an outboard 24 super... I think I need to put tabs on it.. Or I dont have a clue how to drive it. It constantly wants to lean to the Port side of the boat if the wind is not directly head on. The previous owner(a friend of mine) indicated it was the wind direction, and I can see how that would affect it..... But it seems to want to lean regardless.... And always to the left. Is this just a characteristic of the hull? Would tabs fix it??? Any lesson on this would be appreciated. My current set up is a ox66 Yamaha with 12" of set back.

Tabs will help... I have 12" lenco's on my wannabe 24 x7, and I have to make adjustments if I make and change in direction to the waves.. a 7 foot beam is pretty sensitive that way. you don't need huge tabs to fix it. And you want to take it easy getting used to them as you can put it on its side pretty easy.

Thanks for the reply... I will look into that. My wife thinks the boat is gonna tip over..lol. The confusing thing to me is that its always to the same side.

The 24 (I/O) I had would lean to port when coming on plane. As soon as I trimmed up a bit it would level out. Try playing with various trim settings.

That is interesting... I did notice that it is reduced with trim.. And does it worse when planning up.

Think about your prop, with every revolution it is not only digging foreward, it is also trying to dig to the side. The Narrower the beam the less resistance to sideway movement.

Yah... That makes sense.

All 7' beam boats have this problem . On I/O's you can fix the problem by turning a left hand drive . this counteracts the centrifugal force of the motor and in most cases will create perfect balance . On an outboard boat the only way to fix it is to install a set of tabs .

Thanks,

I am starting to come to this conclusion. Would you agree that small 12" lenco's/bennetts would do the trick?

Here is my setup and it does the job without problem

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yup thats all you need

Prop choice contributes -Also look at how you have the boat loaded, people gear, batteries ect. . They are sensative to weight distribution.

I had a two different 24's both outboards 1989 and 2002.The 1989 had a sharp v the 2002 had a slight pad . The 1989 leaned more IMO

Good luck wih the boat they are alot of fun!

Thanks...

Did you have tabs on yours? I am gonna move my batteries to the drivers side. I am sure I also need to learn to drive it. I also have thought of throwing some bagged sand in the front starboard. I am low on funds.. lol.

Ebay is your friend, keep looking and you will find some affordable lencos or bennets which is all you really need. this is the same setup I have http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenco-12-X-1...7e8373&vxp=mtr under 500 new, switches are about 12 bucks apiece. So your right around 500 and that's new, keep your eyes out and you can find used for half that

The 89 did not have tabs the 02 had tabs. Never really used tabs except in a heavy cross wind.

The tabs cost $$ for a good set. Until you spend the $$ just manage the way the boat is loaded, trimmed and drive within your comfort zone.

Interesting....I never rode in an OB 24, but I do have lots of seat time in a I/O 24. Tabs are a MUST on an I/O. I guess the considerable weight difference with the I/O is the difference. JC told me that the 24 was much better balanced back in the TRS days due to the engine moved forward. In the rough I had to run some tab to keep the nose down an keep an eye on the trim to not get in trouble.

I can't tell you how many times I looked at whoever was sitting on the back seat and told them to slide over so I didn't have to drop a tab .

I do that too. It's best when the heaviest passenger sits behind the driver (me).

Thanks for the insight guys... I was out yesterday and played with the trim and it made a HUGE difference. My batteries are both on the passenger side... I am gonna move them this winter.

Mitchie it's more about balance, you should only move one battery. You don't want to create a situation where you couldn't level your boat back out if you do install tabs. And remember that having to use tabs will scrub your speed and efficiancy.

I agree its best to move one battery and see what it gets you.

What year is the boat? Pictures?

here you go, all you need... http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...tabs-pump.html

Thanks again guys... I have a set of tabs coming from a member on here.... I know that there are threads for placement on here.. But who wants to show off there transom(to go along with phragles).?

The boat is a 95... It needs some cleaning up.. But I am working away at it.
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okay... I got a set of tabs. A couple more questions... How many people have been with / or without tabs and saw a noticeable loss in top end? I was going to mount them parallel and and inch up, as close to the outside as possible. Is there a better way to mount them in order to not lose speeds. I know the debate is huge on parallel vs. horizontal. Has anybody mounted at 20 - 22 degrees? I'm trying to educate myself as much as possible.

I had my plates off the boat because I was getting the rams rebuilt and my boat ran 85mph . Put them back on and only run 82. I thought theres no way I scrubbed 3mph with just the tabs being on the back so I took them back off and hit 85 again . They were mounted 1" from the bottom at 24* and obviously to low and dragging . All the Y2K's have been rigged at 20* with no testing at parallel to the water . so I would say your safe at at 20* .. When my 24/7 hits the water again they will be mounted parallel .

Wow.... that's interesting. I am leaning towards 20 - 22.... Have we seen this done? I would love to see some transom shots.

Here's a shot of a 24 Super transom with tabs, showing the proper placement. They should be 1/4" off or up from the bottom of the hull. Maybe Johnny Lightspeed will chine in. He's done hundreds of them, and this is how he would do them. This picture is for an IO. On a outboard hull, put the tabs a little further out to the chine, but not past it. Important. When mounting the piston height. Make sure the tab is above the bottom around 1 1/2"- 2" when fully retracted. Y2k's have had Tabs in every conceivable position. Including Parallel with the bottom, as seen on Don Goodwins Reinforcer. SuperBash, who has the Fastest single 24 outboard, and runs his tabs Parallel with the bottom also. Superbabi's tabs were slightly up as you can see in his thread. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ur-y2k-26.html. The two property's here are when you put the Tabs Parallel with the bottom, they are in turn being an extension of the hull. When you put them up, they act more like brakes, driving the bow down.
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Great info... Thankyou, Interestingly enough... Lightspeed owned this boat for awhile.

Here's a few of my pics. The 24 I owned had 280's mounted parallel to the hull. Boat ran 78 w/496HO. The other pic is my 30. The 380's are mounted not quite paralled with the water, but not parallel with the hull either. Mine look to be mounted in the same place as Superbabi's. I think they where only two boats apart in production.

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Your 24 is a mirror image to how I have started doing it. Its a bigger job than I expected.. lol.

Mitchie. To make your life easier. Make a template of the plate on the transom with the holes. Paper or 1/4" lauan would do. Beats holding up the K Plane to mark the holes. Your boat should look like Daves when it's done.

I Learned that lesson the hard way already.... Its a ***** to get them straight without a template.

I have a lot more pictures if you need them.

Thanks for all the help.. I have them mounted. I'll post pics as soon as I can. I'm pumped to use them. The boat is going to need a transom soon though.. I've learned that. I also broke a fn' screw head off. Good thing there is nine more and 5200. I'll be pulling them off next semptember anyways to do the transom. I will do a much better job at round 2. This really frustrated me.

Don't use 5200 on the Tab plates. 5200 is an Adhesive. The bolts are holding the tabs on. 3m 4200, or 3M Marine Silicone. If you use 5200, when you attempt to remove them next September. Chances are you might rip off the gelcoat. Just sayin. Or use a lot of heat to soften the stuff.

Here is the fruits of my labor. I cant wait to try them.
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Do you have any pictures of them fully retracted?

Mitchie I think you mounted your rams way too low. When they are retracted they should be 2-3" higher then the hull bottom. It looks like you just installed a set of aqua brakes.

The pics are deceiving.... I put them as high as I could because of the stupid splashwell(you can see how close they are to the drains. When they are up all the way they are 2 and 1/4 above the bottom. When the transom is redone we will be doing a well delete. Then I will mount them higher. You can see by the straight edge where I'm at.

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Right on the money Mitch.