The drive height is higher on the Y2K, due to the steps.

NOT DIRECTED TOWARD ANYONE!!! but... think you can somewhat compare drive heights on a 24 to a 30...since a 30 is a stretched 24.
-Steps or no steps...pad or no pad...notch or no notch...propshaft centerline is taken from the bottom of the hulls most rearward running surface with a straight edge to the centerline of the propshaft whether its 6" off the transom or 3' back.
-I think the steps kill bowlift. Instead of having a nice straight surface...you now have the bow lower than the stern! Or am I missing something?

-For FX10 How come the Y2K's don't share the padded bottom like the 24's ?

-While I'm on the subject ...Herb (Intimidator Boats) had a 24 I/O non step/non pad. He had a 300X O/B with a 26" bracket. Being a "builder"...he fitted the 24 with a pad he made. I was told he gained speed. Boat did go upper 70's. I have found out from my own experiences with 21 -24 SB's that they don't really fully "come up on pad" to around 73-74mph besides.

Hi FX10,
Like I previously stated, the propshaft of the step/pad 24' is 6-1/2" below the pad, as measured by Dave M.
I would say that puts it in about the same place as my none step 24' at 5" below the V.
I owned a 1989 24' Pantera and it was rigged the same. I believe you have the X dim on the 24' I/O right on...
The stock 30' has the prop shaft at 3" below the V right? At least on Jcap and Fastedy's boats.
Jcap found that a 2" spacer helped with bow lift and speed.
2+3=5" Now the same on Jcap's boat as my 24'...
I am sure JC had good reason for going higher with the X dimension, would you mind asking?
I know that you fellows are trying to get Superbabi to run faster than the other 30' Superboats powered with the 496HO. This may be a place to look for more...

Hey Bash,
I remember awhile back you posted a pic of your pad on your 24. Still have it on the puter ? If you do , post it for me. Thanks

Rick

-First two of my 24.
-3rd of 30 Y2K "All Rise".

I would like to comment after all this bowlift talk. Bowlift to me is not wanted in the big ruff water for these hulls. They run FASTER & SMOOTHER level...using the cutting action of the VEE. My TOP SPEED evaluations are for smooth, flat, low chop conditions only. I know these are Offshore style hulls...& really not intended for lake TOP SPEED conditions. As comparison...a 24 Progression has a higher Bow stance when running in normal conditons...making it a faster hull. I would take the 24 SUPERBOAT over the 24 Progression in 4-5's any day.

-You know...the more I look at the 24 & 30....there is only a very slight difference in the two's. The 30 looks like a little "sharper" vee...while the 24 has like that 1" drop before the pad.

Bash,

Since I''ve been back I haven't had the pleasure to build a 24 yet. I must have 40 of them under my belt though. I wasn't sure of the pad in the 24, thats why I asked for the pic. From what I can see, the 24, and 30 have the same pad, if you can call it that.
In my opinion, it's better to have the bow lift to start with. If you don''t have it, it takes alot of power and trim to get the bow up, which can rob you of speed. If the hull has a bow that rides higher, it takes less trim, which theoretically uses less power, and should go faster.
The 24 and 30 share the same bow and deep vee, as you know, the 30 is a stretched 24.

Rick

Hey Rick,
Did you build my 1997 24' straight V bottom?
Did you have a chance to ask JC why he went higher with the X on the 30' step but not on the 24' step?

Pat,
I wasn't back with John till last year. So your boat wasn't built by me. If I'm not mistaken, John raised the X because he found it gave more speed. I might be wrong. I''ll ask him next Monday when I go back to work.
I can''t wait to get back to work !!! These "Honey Do Lists" that Kate keeps giving me are KILLING MEEEEEEE !!!

SO RICK, KATE IS DRAINING YOU....I GUESS YOUR MISSING JOHN !!!!!!!!!!! LOL LOL....

If the 24 and 30 are the same hull the 30 should have a lower drive height, longer hull requires more force to raise the bow, higher drive means less lift , I dont have my CAD program on here but its simple physics , the longer the hull the more force required to raise the bow, Bash is right the perfect set-up would have you running level but you need the ability to trim in both directions, the 30 with the wrong prop needs lots of trim to run level the perfect set-up would have you running level with the prop shaft parallel with the hulls running surface not trimmed up and wasting thrust