Six I think I have buddy with some 280 K planes for sale that are totally rebuilt and like brand new.

want me to ask him.

He had them for a project that he sold.

Thanks for the offer, Richie said i need 30" or longer on the boat. that is why i am going with the 380s. People are always wanting to trade from 280 to 380. the only difference between the two are the plane. So it should be easy to go down if i need to i guess

OK yeah I think his are 280's Ill ask him just in case. Been a few years since I have seen them.

They were in storage

well, another day, no results.
E mailed a guy that was interested in buying it and changing it to 20" shaft, he is aware of the condition and has to take it apart anyways so he doesnt mind.
If he isnt interested, I found a drive shaft in FL, but is $$. you know what that means, the sawzall is coming out

Hey Six
Is it off? And if so did you get the shaft out?

well i got the block laying in my garage. . .

slide hammer, no go. I put 25lbs of weight lifting weights and used that as a slide hammer. no go.

put a torch on it and still nothing.

So i got desperate, drilled a 3/8 hole through the shaft, put a 3/8 bolt through and broke out the tie rod puller. heated it up for a few minutes, and beat the hell outta the puller. still nothing. So as of now i am stumped. i guess i need a air hammer or something. i am going to bring it to Chris Carlson marine. He would have preferred i had it still together, but he says he can still get it out.
In the 35 years he has been in business, he has never not gotten one out. I'm hoping this isnt his breaker.

That's amazing I guess that’s why his wedge system didn’t work. Why don’t you flip it upside down and start soaking it with oil for now until you bring it to him.

FREEZE IT I wanna know if it will work on this stubborn POS.


you tried everything else.

Did you ever get the lock tite freezer !

Jeff
He called me, said he tried it & didn't work. He has a tough one.

I have another solution. It always works on rusted parts.

I use it for blocks that are stuck from rust.

Electrolasys

You take the part soak it in water laced with super washing soda (Electralyte) You add a battery charger, one pole + one pole - I need to look it up but Its eiother + or - on a piece of stainless steel and the other on the part. It will de rust anything submerged in the water. anything thats not rusted doesnt get touched.

You have to be sure you get the polarity right or it will destroy the part though. also they cannot touch electrodes or again its shot.

I have de rusted NOS fenders that got surface rusty, blocks & cranks that wouldnt spin, etc. Havent done it in many years though. I am sure you can find the info online big plastic 55 gallon drum or a crate with 6 mil plastic inside doubled up will work.

man i barely passed chemestry, i dont think i want to attempt that haha!
I am just going to bring it to Chris Carlson Marine in Key largo. Let him deal with it, and i'll be hanging out at the beach drinking a beer until he is done. I'm waiting for a friend to stop by so we can lift the motor into the truck.
I'll keep you guys updated from my cabana.

Got it out! Took a air hammer and a torch but CCM got it out.

Turns out who ever ran the boat last had drive shaft issues and made a homemade drive shaft. No o ring or anything. So yea.
No to decide what to do. The spines aren't the best looking

Get some hard faced welding rod an have at it.LOL


No seriously How bad are the splines. It was working wasnt it?

Slam a new drive shaft in there and be on your way. What more can you do besides putting a new crank in the thing?

GREASE IT this time though.

yea that is the Plan. I have to get a new bracket made, my steel one is heavy and was full of water.
Also i am going to change to 20" shaft. that should bring help. i was my propshaft originally was 3 1/2" below the bottom, 32" back.

Anyone know the transom angle?

dont know I would call Jr or sr unless jimmy of ernie knows.

Your Rum runner has a 13 degree transom.

Morgan

thanks sutphen guy.

I am ordering new bracket, stainless marine can't get one build until after the new year. Thy have 72" wide brackets in stock though, would an 8" gap between the platform and transom corners look screwed up?

thanks

Angelo,
Haven't heard anything from the guy who had the 20" mid. I'll keep my eye open for you.
Jim

I found a 20" mid here for a good price. And CCM can sut down my spines to make a drive shaft to fit my motor.

I have been doing all the number crunching and such and my previous motor propshaft was 5" below the bottom, and the waterline was 2" under the bottom cowl with 20 gal fuel. If i drop the motor 2 inches to get the propshaft 2" below bottom, the motor will be pretty low in the water.

I found a new bracket that will fit, and i can just mount the bracket higher, and keep the motor out of the water more if there is no performance difference in shaft length.

six why not find a porta braket like I have on my boat?

My 300's sit low with the 20 inch ids its really nice to be able to move them up and down as needed. I never thought Id like it better than my old set up but I do espeically with the short mids.

there is no performance difference from a 20" to a 25" mid....just put solid mounts in it when you put it all back together and go 25".....this boat is way too deep of a V to go 20" with a single.....plus the boat will probably benefit from the 25" in a few ways....

more moving parts to break. I want simplicity! lol

With a 20" offshore mid on my boat, it will put the Propshaft .5" below the bottom. with all the setback, it should be enough to have cooling and bite. I am going to lower the bracket about 1" so i still have some adjust ability.
The 20" mid i am using is rigged on a Fast track trim, and has solid mounts.

I looked at a Action 23 yesterday, the guy had his stock 300 V8 about .5" above the bottom, and has 26" setback. No LWP or anything.

I dont think Id have 20 inch mids on my boat witha fixed bracket.

I need mine really low to Get it out of the hole.

The cowlings are really close to the waterline and my tie bar has to be touching the water at No wake steerage speed. Otherwise it will blow out cavitate whatever....

My 26 was great with 25 inch mids. Sat plenty high out of the water, hooked good and ran good at speed.

JUST MY .02
Not a ton of OB experience but at least its the same kind of boat.lol

the old johnson/evinrude V8 shafts werent actually 20 and 25. They are actually 23 and 28. but i still have the 25" shaft and if i run into problems, i can always go back

Well i just picked up my new stainless marine bracket. Turns out the motor mount is lifted 5" so i am having to stick with the 25" shaft, or when i fill the boat with fuel, the bracket will be underwater.

this thread is so hard to follow

Hey Angelo
Sound like that bracket is going to force you into the 25" mid. If it wasn't for that I would have definitely run the 20. I looked at a picture of your boat at the dock on page 2 of this thread and that boat sits high in the back with only one engine. Most of those things came with twin SBCs which put a little weight in the back. A full tank of gas won't drop the back of the boat it will drop the whole boat and probably not more than a couple inches. Tanks at about the center of gravity point in that boat.
Anyway I stopped by a friends today who has that 32 Spectra I told you about and took some pictures. This is a contraption we started playing with 25 years ago from an insurance total. Boat was gutted, deck was destroyed, and it started from a striped hull. Homemade deck, engine bracket and 3 different V8s were tried. Engine bracket has 31.5" of setback and engine mounting plate measures 29" top of plate to bottom of boat. First a 25" 275 Evenrude with a best speed of 57. Then we added a CNC manual lift jack for more height and got 59. Then switched to a 85 20" 3.6 300 and got 64. Last engine was a 20" 89 4.0 300 which is still on it and we got 62 out of that. Excuse what it looks like it hasn't been used for about 7 or 8 years. This may look like a pretty crazy idea but I owned it for about 5 years and it was a ton of fun, a definite sleeper. Everybody who saw it for the first time thought it wouldn't even be able to get on plain, (including me) and it took off like a slingshot. The bow never even lifted, you could drop everybody standing and not holding on right to the floor. I had a big cockpit with no front bolsters, just a big bench in the back, we named it Standing Room Only. I used to have like 10 or 12 people in it all the time.
Attachment 433470

Attachment 433471

Attachment 433472

Attachment 433473

Attachment 433474

Thanks for the pics, I need one of those Nose cones you are hiding! lol I sealed up most of the the old through hull fittings today. I had to switch marinas and get my bike ready for the track tomorrow so i had to cut it short. The marina i was at bent my trailer jack so that is another thing i need to address.
My Lower unit upper bearing was disintegrated and i have to finish that saturday. My 25" mid should be welded back up tomorrow also. I might be back in the water monday afternoon.
I am going to set the prop shaft even with the bottom, then i still have two inches of upward adjustment. If i dont lose any performance with the 25" compared to the 20", i wont mind, but if i am losing power because of it, i can swap later, and lower the bracket 5 inches from where it ends up, if i had enough freeboard when full of fuel that is.
I also dont want to set the bracket too low so that trim tabs wont fit if i end up needing them.

I'll keep you updated

As George stated earlier, there is no performance difference. Just a matter of geagcase height dial in. If this bracket gives you the desired height than the 25 is fine. I think what he was referring to as an advantage would be as you trim with a 25 as opposed to a 20 you end up with a little extra setback respectively.

OK if let me know if i am reading this correct.

From the bottom of the boat to the top o the bracking mounting plate is 29", and the motor is 1" above the top of the mounting plate?
The 20" mid makes the distance from propshaft center to the underneath of the engine mounting bracket (where the bracket and motor mount would meet if mounted all the way down) is 30".
So the propshaft is about dead even with the bottom?

20" mid will measure 20" from inside bottom of transom bracket to the Cavitation plate. From Cavitation plate to prop shaft center on a V8 is about another 9.5", about 8.5" on a V6. Something like that if I remember correctly. Anyway between that transom angle and bracket angle, all planes may not be perfectly true, the horizontal planes of the running surface and bracket may be slightly off. On 31" of setback that can amount to a little. Remember its home made, not a Stainless Marine work of art, but its pretty close.

It worked right? thats what counts. I'll start at 1" below bottom and go up from there.
It has been too cold down here to paint, so thats as far as i am getting this year. i'll get the transom, mid, and gear case painted while i am at work, then start assembling the week of jan 10.
still have to paint the bilge, and find a helm for my new steering. also ordered a set of CCM reeds that i need to install.

I dont think your going to be seeing speeds where you will need your propshaft any higher than 1" below....you could probably run it even lower than that and get good results.....

my last 24 superboat was 3-1/2" below (original owner was a water ski guy) and with the right prop went a tick under 70 on GPS all the time....that was a 24 superboat with a stock 250 EFI Merc.......

super high engine heights and nose cones or sportmaster gearcases only work on boats that are going 75-80 plus......

in your case i think getting the motor running 100% and prop selection are going to be key....

well at least your not spending any money.LOL:eek:

dd you have it on a bracket or on the transom? i'll have 30" of setback so i can run it pretty high. previously it was setback 32" and was 6" below bottom, and i was doing 61

it hasnt been too hard of a hit, but it aint over yet

some progress:
freshly painted transom
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...man/image2.jpg
Fresh holes:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...man/photo5.jpg
New bracket:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/photo3-4.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/photo4-1.jpg

Cool! Great work!

Haven't been on here for a while. Boat and bracket look great.

slow and steady wins the race. Still need to purge the steering, and finish rigging the engine. then should be a go. waiting on a few parts in the mail.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/image3-1.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/photo1-3.jpg

Not much drag on that lower!