It Floats!
 

got the RR wet today. took her through the canal and back tot the marina. Motor runs great!

Disabled the VRO on the old V8 OMC and am running mixed fuel.
need to replace the tilt then i can see how she runs. Motor is trimmed up a good bit and def wont plane off.

that 8 foot beam has so much room!

Thanks again Ken and Dan for all the help!

Took a bit to get the motor going. took the air box off and sprayed some starting fluid in the carb, still nothing. then some guy from across the way yelled "Kill Switch!" .....VROOOM :lolhit:

Awsome six


Glad to here she's running

Lots of room for such a small package huh

gotta love outboard sutphens!

Cool! Post some running photos when you have them!

lots of room! forgot to take pics, tomrrow i am gonna wash it down so i'll take some then

Pics. we need pics, enjoy it they are great boats

Didnt get to take any pics this weekend. decided to wash it down instead. simple green and magic eraser are awesome. boat is in great shape. 5200 some old exposed screw holes inside on the inner transom.

found some spider cracks on transom just under the bracket under the port GIL mount. Had to come back to work offshore for 3 weeks. when i get back i'll fix the tilt and trailer it over to cape coral to the factory to get it checked out. and see how she does with the big single OB, and get some running pics, other than that i am extremely happy.

so i've been offshore for 2 weeks browsing pics of other boats and such.
the black carpet in the cockpit gets sooooo hot in my boat. i want to change it! i would like a bare white deck, gelcoated with a nonskid print, but i am thinking about marine teak.

Whatcha think?

http://www.nuteak.com/Frames_Pages/NuTeakGallery.htm
or
http://www.seadek.com/

I like the sea deck if your gonna use either one. The Teak look I think will make the boat look OLD. Unless thats what you after is that classic look then you can go teak. It will make that 80's boat look 70's though IMO

i dont want the inside to feel like a surfboard pad or wakeskate. i might just gel coat it white and thow down some sugar or salt. then put another coat.

OUCH !!!!!!!:party-smiley-004:

I have the plastic flooring in my sutphen that they have been using and its not so easy to clean, its also very rough on your feet

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/photo1-1.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...an/photo-1.jpg

freeboard anyone?

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...man/photo2.jpg

That last one's a cool shot!
My parents always used to ask me if my boat was sinking...surely not a question you'll hear much....
olmako, on the other hand.....

Ha yeah what a difference. I think six needs 2 of those outboards on the back of that thing.

Six, you have any numbers from that setup? I'm curious to see how she runs.

I'll find out this week. The trim/ tilt is stuck up. Getting it fixed now. Trying to decide if I want to repower or not. The transom has no support at all

The transom didnt have any additional support on my sutphen.

Its down near you if you wanna go look at it. its in tampa. Havent heard from the new owner in a while.

Your boat is certainly light in the water.

Jeff

do you have any pic? of the transom? i would think you would need knees? i am going to try to bring it to richie tomorrow. if the tilt gets fixed today haha

man that boat rides awesome!
my brother and i went out with 1/3 tank of fuel. headed out of ft. lauderdale jetties. it was about 3-5s out and about 20knts of breeze. Couldnt get on a plane at first. i think the high speed jets were just clogged from sitting for 19 years. But when she did open up, ohh man we took off! only got up to about 4200 RPM for a few small bursts in between larger swells, but felt like 45-50mph easy. never been on a boat that rode so damn good!
The stock power steering is kinda sketchy though, probably switch to hydraulic soon. Im pretty happy with the Sing beater!

Going to the factory tomorrow with it. take a spin around cape coral, maybe find some flat water.

Told you the Sutphen would give you the best ride!! It looks great in the water! Glad you enjoy it. It is really a cool boat. Id put a newer big single on it and have fun. It has the better balance with the single for the rough water running.

yes you were correct!

that V8 has some torque though.
a new yamaha 300 is around 20k with all the controls.

i think i am just going to run it like it is for a while, change the steering and put a more modern bracket.
later, get the motor bored out and build to 380ish hp on pump gas for 4k and still have 16k for fuel

I have NEVER EVER heard anyone say, after a ride in a SUTPHEN, that they didnt like the ride or werent happy with the boat.

Not once in my life and you guys know how ppular sutphens are in my area.

We have tons of sutphens in this area.

Turns out the bolts that hold the bracket to the transom leak water. . . :eek: the survey said there was moisture around the mounting bolts and bilge plug. so i'm guessing the silicone they used is shot. also you can see signs that the bolts were over tightened to stop leaks. the washers are sucked into the glass about 2mm.
going to get it probed to see the extent of the moisture, and upgrade the bracket.

are there any Knees in the twin OB models?

sixmassive, Try a STAINLESS MARINE bracket...and a pair of Merc 300X's. "HIGH LIFE"

You know six to be totally honest every OB 26 I have ever seen had the washers somewhat crushed into the transom glass. Even my old one was like that.

My boat was super dry in that area too. I wouldnt sweat it too much if there doesnt seem to be rot in that area. let face it if there a hole in it theres gonna be some moisture at some point. Question is how much.

My boat had a little moisture around the thru hull fitting for the pump out toilet. I was going to have it glassed over at some point. To get rid of the hole altogether but wanna make sure its done right so doing lots of research first. I ended up changing it from plastic to a brass and re caulked with marine 4100 because its flexible for long periods where the 5100 gets hard and can crack and leak water.

as for drying the holes I have been told that a little acetone can dry the area quite well. I didnt do that I just left it open with no fitting for a week in the hot summer heat and lots of air flowing before replacing the fitting. Havent rechecked the moisture content but it wasnt very high to start with and was well within acceptable limits and in a small area.

most boats I have seen surveyed show some moisture around bolt holes and/or thru hull fittings.

i have pics of a moisture meter on them. got a survey done on the boat.
when it was in the water, it was leaking from the starboard lower backing plate (it has the gil bracket). i might take the bolts out today from the bottom two plates, and let it dry out til the weekend, then 5200 the crap out of them and put them back in. Should hold enough until i get a new bracket.

Is 5200 better or is 4100 better since its stays more flexible and wont crack?

wasnt that a trailered boat? also what were the moisture amounts?

ive never seen 5200 crack. 4200 is the same except fast cure. dont know what 4100 is.
here are some pics

the surveyer said they werent bad readings and if i stopped it leaks not it would be fine.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2459.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2458.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2457.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2456.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2455.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2454.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2452.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2446.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l9...n/103_2460.jpg

the outside reading were dry

ps the bilge is alot cleaner and has new bilge pump and fuel lines now

Hey Six, beautiful new boat. If I knew Ken was selling it I may have grabbed it. Great luck with it. I was just reading your thread and decided to put in my 2 cents. First of all pull your main jets ( inside bottom front drains in carb bowels. Use a jet tool - cheap from an Evinrude dealer) and soak them in acetone for a few minutes blow them out and reinstall. If that engine has been sitting & this isn't done you may pop it even if fuel conditioner was used. I would run that set up as is for a while, that V8 may surprise you how well it can push that boat. The moisture meter for the most part seems to be reading under 18% moisture content so the transom should not be rotted. Over 18% for long periods of time would be a problem. Re seal all transom bolts ASAP till the end of the season then remove them and the drain plug assembly and dry out using a dehumidifier as follows. Use a plastic tape over the outside of bolt holes. Place a refrigerant dehumidifier in bilge put a hose on the pan and run it out the drain hole. Plastic tape the hose to the hull so it can't breathe through that point. Then set the dehumidifier to run on constant so that it can achieve bringing the RH down to about 18 to 20%. Tent & seal the dehumidifier in to the back area with 4 mill plastic to create a small dry area and let it run like that for a month. That will dry your transom. I use a desiccant dehumidifier which brings the humidity down to 2% & it dries out in about 10 days. Good luck.
Jim

4200 4100 what ever it takes,LOL

I just cant seem to type for sheet anymore,


All I know is that when I was told how to reseal my thru hull fitting for the toilet by the surveyor they told me to us the 4200 instead of the 5200 because it stays flexible and they have seen the 5200 crack.

Does jimmy know everything about boats or what?

Hes like a wealth of wierd boating knowledge


I remember seeing something online about some pads you can put on the hull to pull the moisture out reverse osmosis or some sheet.

Mine was plenty low % too so it wasnt a real concern and in a very small area.

Jeff thanks for the compliment but its just common knowledge from work. I have been doing restorative structural drying for over 30 years. Here’s a page from my website that I direct my customers to if they have had a small water intrusion.
http://mrkscarpet.com/modules/smarts....php?itemid=23

No wonder you have so many toys if you can "spin" a water leak that well.LOL

I am clearly in the wrong business

were working our Azzes off and Jimmys over there soaking up water leaks with $100 bills

Thanks for the info. Almost 3 weeks ago i pulled all the through hull fittings that mount the transom other than 4 that are out of the water, and two that were below the waterline. They have been drying out since then. I have not put on a de humidifier. The boat in indoors down here in FL. Do you think it is a must to use the de humidifier?

There is also what sounds like a hollow spot in the center. Richie told me to just let the through hull fittings dry out for a few weeks, then mix some resin, and rig up something so the resin can be soaked up by the transom. then with the hollow spot. drill a hole towards the top of it and do the same thing.

With the jets, will i have to retune the carbs?

Sounds good with the resin I would use West System. You will need the dehumidifier or it could take a year to dry out. No tuning on the carbs all 3 circuits are fixed jets and you only need to do the mains, you can run some gum out for mid range & idle and they will clean out as you run it. Dont pull the carbs off and you wont mess up linkage synchronization. Just pull the air box and the mains face you at the bottom of bowels inside the drains. Very easy only takes 10 minutes to do the whole thing.

Id listen to Jimmy He knows his stuff.

When I dont know something about OB's thats my first call!

Usually my only call needed.

edit: i found some for rent.

do you think a single etec 300 or net yamaha 300 would push the boat just as good if not better than the v8?

I was trying to get a better look at what you have there. It looks like about a 1985 3.6 300 with a 25" shaft. Let me know what it is that you have.

86 3.6gt with the 28" shaft. I cant make my mind up if i really need twins to push this boat. i would like to stay on the cheaper side of the spectrum and stick with a single 300 but i dont want to strain the motor, and also dont want to look back 6 months down the road and wish i would have gotten twins

Thats a 25" no such thing as a 28" and I doubt its a 30. Is it a 300 or a 275HP. If its a 86 300 I think with some dial in you can get 70 out of it. A new E Tech or a Merc 300XS would give you more grunt out of the hole but might not give you any more up top. Just run it for a few years, get your time out of it & then re rig. I would dial that thing in real good with one engine & piss some people off. Don't know what you have on it for a prop but a 14.5 x 24 Raker might work pretty well for you. Don't put a low water PU nose cone on it. Put a small nose cone on it and close up top 1/2 of your water PUs on side of case and run it as high as you can before losing water pressure. 10 to 12 lbs is OK on that engine its a volume fill block. Set your gearcase up to look like this. This aluminum nose cone is something that Land & Sea sold years ago. I only have a few left and don't want to sell them but there is a guy on Scream and Fly ( JenkSam ) who may be able to come up with one for you. You don't need a blow out ring (that is in rear by bearing carrier) because you will be running a through hub exhaust style prop. The reason you don't want a low water PU nose cone on that boat is because extending the length of case will create too much drag with the depth you will have to run it to push the boat with one prop. You have to get the case almost completely out to overcome the drag and not go slower and with one engine its not happenin on that boat.
Attachment 430365