In a thread quite a while ago, someone mentioned a master cylinder attatchment that allows you to bleed surge trailer brakes with compressed air.

what is it and where to find it?

without it, what's your method for bleeding? Block trailer and push the coupler back stroke with the truck or what? I'm lost and my drums need a complete going over.

I plan to change out the fluid completely.

Thanks.

At this point you should evaluate whether to convert over to disk brakes and rotors.........in most cases it is not much money
Also look at electric over hydraulic setup
Just my $.02 worth

I've looked at the Kodiak conversion, and got a price. I need the big 8 luggers x3. Can't justify the $1300 this season. Thats just for the rotors, calipers, pads, brackets ect...doesn't include a new master cyl.
My drums have been acting up so I'm just gonna do the "full service" routine...put in new fluid, bleed, adjust, visual inspection ect.
Not looking at alot of road miles this season, maybe next...so I'm looking to get by on what I got for now.

$1300.00 ... big bucks. No visual...pull and inspect, possibly new pads and redo bearings???? I don't see where the new fluid comes in...it doesn't go bad. Just top it off

bearings and shoes are fine. I think a couple of the adjusters are f'ed up.

Yes...conventional petroleum brake fluids attract moisture. It should be changed regularly...especially on a trailer that sits alot and sees damp conditions...little known and often overlooked! When the fluid changes color AT ALL, it's got water in it, or it's burnt, which really isn't such an issue with the trailers.

Cheap insurance. I swapped out the 10 year old fluid in my '89 Corvette, and others, with the Castrol synthetic...good stuff...does not attract moisture, much higher boiling point also. The improvement in pedal feel was noticible. Same chit going in this trailer.

An ounce or prevention is worth a lb of knowledge.............I think, that is how it goes

JB

There is a brake bleed hand vaccum tool made for bleeding that you could probably get at any NAPA store.

thanks for the lead.

interested in the air one too, if anybody knows.

Like Viper7 says use a Mityvac (about $60 for the metal model) starting at the furthest point from the master cylinder.

Rippem,

I know a gut here in Toledo who has one of the power bleeders. He did my trailer for me a few years ago. I will check with him this week for details and try to get back to you ASAP.

Chris