Legally,morally or emotionaly?

I learned that lesson when i was 16 and driving my dad's new aurora without permission. Came about an inch from rear-ending some guy in a truck who slammed on the brakes at a yellow when i was already crowding him to make the light.

And again, you're well under the limit of your truck and you were still about screwed.

Like i said, it's all about knowing how to drive, and knowing what the other guy is going to do before he does. You saw the guy trying to decide what to do before he went, if you were reading him properly you'd have known to hit the brakes. If i were in that position, i'd have been at least covering the brakes as soon as I saw the indecision. Right of way or not. I know I did that many times on my motorcycle, and it probably saved my life one time in particular.

Generally the manufacturer ratings are based on things like transmission life, not brakes. My S10 blazer had the same tow rating as my half-ton suburban.

BINGO!! Set the brakes up on the trailer right, and you'll be in good shape. When i upgraded the brake actuator on my trailer, it made a world of difference. I need to get on some scales and get the boat positioned properly though, i'm getting some lockup now when i panic stop. But the 2 times i've had to panic stop so far, it's stopped just fine. That extra following distance helps.

Although i like surge brakes. They work pretty well when set up properly. A lot of electric brakes simply ramp up pressure based on how long you're on the brakes, that's not good in a panic stop situation. I hesitate to say "all" but i don't think there's an easy way to tell the brake controller how hard you're hitting the brake.

Wow....i was gone for a few days....guess where ......I HAD to buy another tow vehicle...yes again...due to the last was not good enough....yes...I did not want to...yes I can not use it for much else....so I do not want to hear it from you cry babies that you do not need another vehicle or it is not practicle.....you should not own the boat then......do you think i want to do this garbage ???....some of the opinions on here are really nuts....and i am just breaking sydways wagons about the wd hitch....but some of you guys are dumb....I still have to buy another truck to get it around in tight locations....you do not here me attempting to cut corners....hell...I even could not buy a single wheel toter like someothers on the board...you know why....cause they are at the limit basically with the single screw...you guys are cheap skates that someday....possibly will do someone else damage....here in jersey it is way worst also...whole north east....some of you in other parts of country do not understand....it is easier out there.....not so many close calls....your fortunate.......idiots!

yeah, a stupid question for this thread.... Just checked, lookes like a Dual F350 would do it... Suppose the 2500 GM and Chrysler's are a go. No Avalanch.... Maybe if I sell the steel myco and get an aluminum one. Heard they flex a bit though (Was trying to get that answered a day or so ago....) Would ask but I am afraid I'll get yelled at. I know! I'll use my Harley....

Electric over hydraulic, NOT straight electric, and yes you can control input into this braking system, how fast and how much braking is critical and very easily set up, FYI, 05 up Ford factory in-dash brake controllers are not compatible with electric over hydraulic systems

Ok then, what did you buy and what are you pulling??

What kind of brakes are on your trailer, drum, disc, surge, electric, or electric over hydraulic? brakes on how many axles? anything over 5000lb gvw in AZ requires brakes on all axles.

It's a steel Myco. Tripple wheels, disk brakes on all wheels, 2 years old, hydraulic surge brakes - everything basically brand new. Tires still have the little rubber tabs on them. It;s a sweet trailer....

It didn;t get much use. Everything has been checked out and it inspects perfect...