HayJay

That would make sense to me, Chris. My '97 2500 has the spongy brake deal as well. I have replaced the front pads once and tried to bleed the system, with no change in the brake pedal feel as a result. I took it to a shop to have the rear shoes inspected, only to have the mechanic call me back and show me they were still alright (great shop on Jones Rd. and West Rd. in Houston ). After a quick panic stop the pedal feel is always VERY good, but it gradually gets spongy again. Using the correct fluid and don't have any leaks. It's been a pain.

Chris Sunkin

I put the lines on . Goodridge brand. Very nice- only 1 minor mod to the reat mount bracket. I got REALLY lucky and none of the lines were seized. The only issue is I'm concerned about lines rubbing up front- the stock was half flex, half shaped steel. With all flex of the new ones, they rub the upper control arm. I'm splitting a piece of 3/8" fuel line and putting it over, then using spiral wrap for electrical looms.

Anyway- big improvement. I couldn't get in yesterday for anyone to cycle the ABS so I took it to a gravel lot, ran it up to 30 and panic-stopped. After 3 times, I reached under and cracked the bleeders- got air. I'll repeat this afternoon when the rain quits. So far I'd say "Problem solved" $54 bucks for the lines plus a half-gallon of brake fluid.

tblrklakemo

you have a lot of rotating mass....time to get larger disks and calipers. A rear disk conversion will help too.

Chris Sunkin

I looked in to all of that- It would cost 2 grand if I did the work. As of now, I can damn near stand it on its nose. I'll probably have to keep up on the adjustment in the rear

Tow-N-One

[QUOTE=Chris Sunkin]We bought my son a full-sized short-bed Chevy pickup- '96. Very nice semi-custom. It's got 35" tires on it. Came stock with 31's. Anyway, I can't get this thing to stop worth a demn. I've replaced just about everything. Rotors, high-buck EBC pads, new master, new drums and shoes in the back. Purged it and refilled with silicone. Bled the living hell out of it. I still can't get rid of the vague pedal, sponginess and lack of decent stopping distance.

HELP!![/QUOTE

First of all you are trying to stop alot more recipricating mass with 35'' tires than you are with stock 31''. You need to upgrade your brake system to handle it added mass. I would start with disk in the rear. The rear drum system on these trucks is not the best.

bouyhunter

Just ran into a problem with my truck, so I'm dredging this up for tips.

I was leaving work today to take one of my dogs to the vet.
'96 C1500, standard cab, full size bed.
Started the truck, put it in gear, held the brake down while I was lighting a smoke, all of the sudden after about 30 sec. pedal goes straight to the floor. Tried pumping it up, no dice.
get out, notice brake fluid all over rear right wheel and ground. Grabbed the wifes truck, and took care of the vet appt.
Only had about 10 minutes to inspect before the rain, and it appears to be the brake line as it enters the drum. Didn't have a flashlight, but couldn't see/figure out what kind of fitting it is. It also appears that the connection point to the rigid line on the frame is where the rubber line hooks up, and it looks like at that connection, it "Y's" to serve both rear wheels. Is this right??
Is this worth going ahead and doing myself, or if it's going to need scanned and every other damn thing, should I just send it to the shop, and not F with it.
This is my daily beater, hauling stuff around vehicle, and I have another car available for a little while. But repairs like this to me are a PITA, I don't consider this sort of thing fun.
Any advice??
What should I expect it to cost if I send it out??

TexomaPowerboater

Had a 1995 Z71, I had to replace all four brakes. Set me back about $2,000.

Oh yah - had to have all brake lines replaced.

I think most of this was due to all the offroading, I got stuck 12 maybe 14 times. Bought it with 120,000 miles - replaced the front two brakes, then replaced the back two at 140,000. Traded it in with 200,000 miles engine still ran like the day I got it. Great truck..... so I bought another one.

bouyhunter

Damn thing only has 55K on the dial, and is in great shape.
Still probably only worth 4-5K if I'm lucky.

$2000 in brakes is a pisser. It's been a good reliable truck. (5.7). Like I said just a "beater", and I don't want to invest anything in it, but I need to keep it running for the time being.
Do I need to bite the bullet and do the work myself?

handfulz28

Might just be the wheel cylinder, the piston that pushes the shoes. I've only done one drum job so I'm no expert but if you've got the tools it shouldn't be a big deal to replace that cylinder...and line if you have to.
I've bled brakes on GM cars that supposedly required the scantool; found it wasn't necessary, just a convenience thing. On some I was actually able to bleed the ABS unit.

czy40p

Partner here at work had his lines rust through, just took it to local mechanic, and they replaced the lines. I do not think it set him back more than $200....truck has about 180K and is twelve years old.