Chris Sunkin

This truck is a good example- those Wheelpros rims aren't rated the same as the stock rims. They're Chinese-made castings and the OEM's are forgings. You pop a center out of one while you're pulling 10K+ and you'll be in it deep.

Bottomfeeder

I ran a similar set-up with 37 inch Toyos and a Kelderman air-ride system, the Toyos were the mud terrains and they were a higher then normal D-rating,, the Kelderman set-up was the sh*t for hooking up to the boat, just drop the bags while I'm watching the back-up camera and hookup, I pulled a 292 and a 353 Formula with this rig but the brakes still sucked IMO

carter38

This kit is all fabtech. The reason I did a add a leaf and a block in the back was to keep a desent ride. I tacked the blocks togerther and thats why you do traction bars is to get rid of the axle wrap. I also did a one piece driveshaft as well.

carter38

I agree about the china made stuff but its almost impossibe to find any wheels anymore that look good that are not made in china. You pop a center out of any wheel you will be in it deep know matter what you are driving pulling or not.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

It happens too. Phantom Chaos cracked and destroyed a wheel while towing his 382 to Havasu behind his Excursion. There was no incident causing the failure, and fortunately none after either. It just happened.

Chris Sunkin

Buy Welds. They're forged and they match OEM load capacity. You can buy a whole ste of Wheelpro's junk for the cost of one chromed Weld though. The aluminum Weld wheels aren't treated with anything so they'll oxidize and pit quickly. I have them powdercoated in bright chrome then a clear overlay.

waterboy222

Dustin, who did your lift for you? I followed you leavin LOTO and the truck looks great level with the trailer.

Ill probably do a little more research on wheel/tire combos. Im thinking the double X coilovers might be the way i go. They come in 8 and 10 inch and offer the best ride and stability. My concern, again, is the wheel/tire combo. Ive yet to find an E rated tire that size. I can't find what weights are limits at what rating. Id like to find a list saying how much a d-rated tire is good for.
It gets tricky though because the rating is for tire load, which would equate to whats placed on the wheel and tire, not behind it, true? So in theory, a D-rated tire that can hold the weight of the truck and gear would work because the boat is behind it, correct?

Not tryin to sound like i know what im talkin about, cause i dont, just trying to make sense of it all..

Chris Sunkin

The letter-grade rating on the tire equates to it's capability for carrying weight. If you had a true trailer (not a semi-traiuler which is what a boat trailer is) you'd have zero tongue weight and that would add zero load to the tire.

Having said that, a truck like an F350 came stock with an E rated tire. Changing downward to a D rated tire would be inadvisable for several reasons, not the least being the liability exposure.

Load range as listed on a tire sidewall in an alpha-designation is simply a replacement for the old ply-rating system. B=4, C=6, D=8, E=10, F=12 plys. The manufacturer rates each tire to its own rating on load-carrying ability @ a specified pressure. A tire rated at X weight @ x PSI will not carry that same load at less pressure. A larger tire with equivalent ply (load) rating will almost always carry a higher load capacity.

Lastly, remember that load doesn't kill tires, heat does. You could load a trailer until your tires were almost flat and they won't pop. Once you start rolling, heat will build rapidly, causing structural failure inside the tire. Short sidewall tires don't care much for load. If shorter sidewalls were a better idea, every semi on the highway would be on 30" wheels.

Joe92GT

First thing on the ford. Do not try to stack different lifts and components.. just order the lift you want. IE 8 inch, instead of a 4.5 and 2.5. The price will be very similar, and then you can sell the left over stuff for more cash. The only exception is if peices you already own are used in the bigger lift.

Ford f-250's use a 2 inch block in the back, and 350's use a 4 inch stock. This is why 350's sit higher. I would highly recommend sourcing a pair of f-350 rear blocks. Then, a full spring lift is the way to go. I have the superlifts 4 inch spring, and it rides better than stock. I know DR makes even better springs, so I would think that an 8 inch spring will ride ok. If you are using air bags, tell the lift company, they can make a lighter rated spring that will ride better, and air bags will give you extra weight carrying, up to the RAWR.

Now, somewhere around 10-15% of the trailer weight is the tongue weight. So with a 10k trailer, your at 1-1500lbs extra on the rear axle. Depending on how the trailer is built. Better balanced trailers keep more weight off the tongue.

Look at your rear axle weight rating. Get wheels and tires that have a higher rating than this combined. There is a lot of D rated tires that are rated to the same as load range E tires. Brands vary, and it also varies with sizes.

carter38

Thanks, Ryan and I did the lift at RYNO 4WD. Let me know what your plans are we might be fixing to change mine up a bit and might have some parts you can use.