Options on Trailers
#12
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With 2 spares, you can run over something and bust all three and still make it down the road. You didn't mention it but if it's a triple, brakes on all axles. There's different hardware available for braking components. If you're in salt, I'd want a stainless upgrade, Freshwater flush is nice, as is either oil bath hubs or easy-lube spindles.
#13
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I would not use oil bath with a trailer that gets dunked, I have seen too many trailers with them get water into the oil. Also the freshwater flush puts some water on the brakes but not enough to warrant the cost. cheaper and easier to just put a garden hose on them after you pull the trailer out.
#14
Platinum Member
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These are some of the options we have on our current Myco that you might want to consider. I can honestly say that if I had to build another trailer, I would duplicate the options that I have now. They all serve a purpose and have worked well.
- LED Lighting - uses less energy and lasts longer.
- Midship turn signals - lets the rubber-neckers know you want to change lanes.
- Disc brakes on all axles - better stopping power.
- Oil bath axles - only if you don't dunk the trailer. The oil bath axles are sealed, but if the trailer is going in the water I personally would stick with the old school grease just to be safe.
- Torsion springs - seem to ride better than leaf springs.
- Elec/Hydraulic brakes - great stopping without the "clunk" of surge brakes.
- Fresh water tanks - wash and flush the boat anywhere.
- Storage boxes - you can never have enough room for tools and spare parts.
- Swing drive guard - protection for the rear of the boat and for other drivers on the highway, yet still easy to load/unload.
As for the options you specifically mentioned, I would certainly go with elec/hydro brakes. They seem to work really well. On the tires, it can't hurt to have more than one spare. We have always had our spares mounted horizontally so they are out if sight. If you are adding boxes to the side of the trailer, this is something you might want to consider. About the tool boxes, it really depends on how much stuff you intend to carry. I like them and load them with extra fluids, filters and small parts for the boat and trailer, garden hoses for the wash down system on the trailer and all of the cleaning supplies. They come in handy. Finally, painting or not painting an aluminum trailer is simply personal preference. If you like the look of it painted, go for it. If you like the bare aluminum better, leave it alone.
I hope this helps. Good luck with your trailer purchase and happy shopping.
- LED Lighting - uses less energy and lasts longer.
- Midship turn signals - lets the rubber-neckers know you want to change lanes.
- Disc brakes on all axles - better stopping power.
- Oil bath axles - only if you don't dunk the trailer. The oil bath axles are sealed, but if the trailer is going in the water I personally would stick with the old school grease just to be safe.
- Torsion springs - seem to ride better than leaf springs.
- Elec/Hydraulic brakes - great stopping without the "clunk" of surge brakes.
- Fresh water tanks - wash and flush the boat anywhere.
- Storage boxes - you can never have enough room for tools and spare parts.
- Swing drive guard - protection for the rear of the boat and for other drivers on the highway, yet still easy to load/unload.
As for the options you specifically mentioned, I would certainly go with elec/hydro brakes. They seem to work really well. On the tires, it can't hurt to have more than one spare. We have always had our spares mounted horizontally so they are out if sight. If you are adding boxes to the side of the trailer, this is something you might want to consider. About the tool boxes, it really depends on how much stuff you intend to carry. I like them and load them with extra fluids, filters and small parts for the boat and trailer, garden hoses for the wash down system on the trailer and all of the cleaning supplies. They come in handy. Finally, painting or not painting an aluminum trailer is simply personal preference. If you like the look of it painted, go for it. If you like the bare aluminum better, leave it alone.
I hope this helps. Good luck with your trailer purchase and happy shopping.
#15
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I mentioned above about the drive guard protecting your boat and serving as a safety device for other vehicles. Here is what happened to one of my other trailers when it got hit from the side at 50mph. We were making a right hand turn and had another car run into the rear/side of the trailer. The lady was in her 80's and told the police that she never saw it. Either way, because the drive guard was there, the force of the impact was the bumper of her car hitting the trailer instead of her windshield hitting the drives.
She was not injured and the only damage to the boat was a broken skeg and some other miscellaneous parts on one drive. If not for the drive guard, she would have had a face full of fiberglass and bravo drives. I also have no doubt that there would have been more damage to the boat had the trailer not had a drive guard. Please trust me when I say that a drive guard is absolutely money well spent.
She was not injured and the only damage to the boat was a broken skeg and some other miscellaneous parts on one drive. If not for the drive guard, she would have had a face full of fiberglass and bravo drives. I also have no doubt that there would have been more damage to the boat had the trailer not had a drive guard. Please trust me when I say that a drive guard is absolutely money well spent.
Last edited by Hot Duck; 01-30-2008 at 11:47 PM.
#16
Two spares are a must, and have the both mounted on the trailer with full replacements hubs including bearings and the whole works. This way you have spare everything and can whip on a new hub in moments instead of rebuilding a bearing setup from parts after you've cleaned out the carnage. If you are going with integrated rotor/hubs (depends on brake manufacturer), make the spares be total rotor replacements, and not just hubs. I have two spares, but only one mounted on the trailer. The second one goes in the truck for long trips.
1 nice top loading tool box is a must for bottle jack, brake fluid, wheel chocks, grease gun, breaker bar, cordless impact wrench, and spare trailer parts like bearings, caliper, and brake pads. This keeps you from schleping them in&out of the truck each trip.
You want the box mounted as far forward as possible on the driver side. It can't be too high (as you can use it for a step to the bow), as long as your tailgate won't interfere nor the nose of the boat. As long as you spec a tall, sealed, top opening box, you should not have to worry about it getting wet.
You want the spare(s) mounted on the passenger side.
As far as brakes, I only know what Kodiak offers, and you want Nickel Cadmium rotors with SS calipers.
ASG here on the board has a painted aluminum trailer under his 39TG, and it looks AWESOME. If you want to pay the $$$ for it, its worth it, but not a necessity. All aluminum trailers oxidize a bit over time, but I know where you will be dipping most often will be fresh water, so not as much of a concern.
Jim, ping me if I can be of any more assistance. All of the advice above is top notch.
1 nice top loading tool box is a must for bottle jack, brake fluid, wheel chocks, grease gun, breaker bar, cordless impact wrench, and spare trailer parts like bearings, caliper, and brake pads. This keeps you from schleping them in&out of the truck each trip.
You want the box mounted as far forward as possible on the driver side. It can't be too high (as you can use it for a step to the bow), as long as your tailgate won't interfere nor the nose of the boat. As long as you spec a tall, sealed, top opening box, you should not have to worry about it getting wet.
You want the spare(s) mounted on the passenger side.
As far as brakes, I only know what Kodiak offers, and you want Nickel Cadmium rotors with SS calipers.
ASG here on the board has a painted aluminum trailer under his 39TG, and it looks AWESOME. If you want to pay the $$$ for it, its worth it, but not a necessity. All aluminum trailers oxidize a bit over time, but I know where you will be dipping most often will be fresh water, so not as much of a concern.
Jim, ping me if I can be of any more assistance. All of the advice above is top notch.
#17
The BAD Guy
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http://www.airtighthubs.com/products-sport-5200.php
Comes standard equipment on Myco. If your getting someone elses trailer I would get them. Also their E- axle for spare.
Comes standard equipment on Myco. If your getting someone elses trailer I would get them. Also their E- axle for spare.
#19
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http://www.airtighthubs.com/products-sport-5200.php
Comes standard equipment on Myco. If your getting someone elses trailer I would get them. Also their E- axle for spare.
Comes standard equipment on Myco. If your getting someone elses trailer I would get them. Also their E- axle for spare.
#20
FIERCE ALLEGIANCE
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