Options on Trailers
#22
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#23
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I had 2 storage boxes on my last cat trailer. I also had 2 spares put on.
Water would get into the boxes everytime. I tried getting some good plastic storage bins that fit in there, hoping the water would stay out. However sometimes you have someone different doing the trailer and they may back it in too far, now you have a plastic bin filled with water.
Try to keep a storage box as far forward as possible and as high as possible to avoid this problem. A box like this is better than 1 or 2 on the side.
In terms of wheels, dont care. Go find the strongest, most durable tire and then find a wheel to fit it.
Make sure your axle size is far more sufficient than you need. For instance, if your boat is 20k on the trailer, get 3 8000 pound axles, not 3 7000 axles.
On the trailer, going overkill will only save you hassle down the road. Dont underbuild it.
Some of the cooler features above are nice, LEDs look better, drive guards are good but sometimes make launching more difficult depending on how they are built.
What would be really slick is if you had a stoage box running down the middle of the trailer that was 8' 10" long and you could keep an entire extra axle on the trailer, locked in that box. I dont know how you would do this with a V, but a cat would be easy as long as it was accessible from the side (so you can get it out with the boat on).
When I blew a bearing in Havasu, luckily I was in town, but I had to get an axle from my trailer mfg in Texas. Took about 2 weeks before they got the axle. My boat had to stay in Havasu for 3 weeks. Finding a shop to do the work is the easy part, if they have what you need.
Water would get into the boxes everytime. I tried getting some good plastic storage bins that fit in there, hoping the water would stay out. However sometimes you have someone different doing the trailer and they may back it in too far, now you have a plastic bin filled with water.
Try to keep a storage box as far forward as possible and as high as possible to avoid this problem. A box like this is better than 1 or 2 on the side.
In terms of wheels, dont care. Go find the strongest, most durable tire and then find a wheel to fit it.
Make sure your axle size is far more sufficient than you need. For instance, if your boat is 20k on the trailer, get 3 8000 pound axles, not 3 7000 axles.
On the trailer, going overkill will only save you hassle down the road. Dont underbuild it.
Some of the cooler features above are nice, LEDs look better, drive guards are good but sometimes make launching more difficult depending on how they are built.
What would be really slick is if you had a stoage box running down the middle of the trailer that was 8' 10" long and you could keep an entire extra axle on the trailer, locked in that box. I dont know how you would do this with a V, but a cat would be easy as long as it was accessible from the side (so you can get it out with the boat on).
When I blew a bearing in Havasu, luckily I was in town, but I had to get an axle from my trailer mfg in Texas. Took about 2 weeks before they got the axle. My boat had to stay in Havasu for 3 weeks. Finding a shop to do the work is the easy part, if they have what you need.
Last edited by Magic34; 02-02-2008 at 08:06 AM.
#24
Magic34, that is a McClain trailer right? Is that what's under your 370SS?
Also, how about lining the inside of the trailer tool box with Rhino Liner or similar? This would seal all but the top very well.
I also just posted this on another thread:
[ Depending on the entire setup, and the ramps used, the ENTIRE weight of the boat and the trailer is ALL on the front axle when you are cresting a ramp going down, AND you have water weight in the axles and cross members added in when pulling out of the water too, as it drains.
This will do a REAL NUMBER on the front axle in no time. This is why its very important to over-engineer your trailer. I'll say it again: "you can't have too much trailer." ]
Also, how about lining the inside of the trailer tool box with Rhino Liner or similar? This would seal all but the top very well.
I also just posted this on another thread:
[ Depending on the entire setup, and the ramps used, the ENTIRE weight of the boat and the trailer is ALL on the front axle when you are cresting a ramp going down, AND you have water weight in the axles and cross members added in when pulling out of the water too, as it drains.
This will do a REAL NUMBER on the front axle in no time. This is why its very important to over-engineer your trailer. I'll say it again: "you can't have too much trailer." ]
#25
Platinum Member
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If you go with a Rhino Lining type coating, try a dark color. I did my boxes on the Gladiator trailer inside and out in white Line X and we had to touch up the edges of the boxes with a little white paint every year. I don't know why, but only the edges turned yellow. All of the flat surfaces stayed perfectly white. I first thought it was the diesel exhaust, but you can see in these pictures that it occurred equally on both sides, not just the exhaust side. I still like the general idea though, because once they are coated you can walk on the boxes and throw stuff in and out of them all day without any worries of scratches or dings.
Sydwayz has a good idea about using the lining to waterproof the boxes. I think that this would work really well if you had top load boxes.
Sydwayz has a good idea about using the lining to waterproof the boxes. I think that this would work really well if you had top load boxes.
#26
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on my current trailer I have torsion axles and on the next trailer will use the same but specify ones with replaceable splindles then carry a complete hub assembly as mentioned and have it mounted to a spare spindle
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