Eagle trailer redo
 

after having started a couple threads on trailer brakes and tires
thought I'd show you guys what I'm up to...

strip off the drum brakes
paint the axles
pull the bunks replace couple of split boards and re-carpet all
Installing Kodiak 13" discs on all axles and BrakeRite SD including juggling brake lines, mounting all the EOH parts (see pics), and having the coupler welded solid.
Six new tires...balanced :D
some small paint touch-ups
clean/wax every square inch of paint
LED lights
toolboxes

I'm not done but have made some significant progress recently

cool story and good service from both SouthwestWheel and ConWay frieght.
ordered noon last Fri. Robert there said maybe out today, most likely Mon. I asked "if he bought somebody out back a Coke could he get them out today?"
They not only went out from Texas Fri. but were in Syracuse for dock pick-up Tues. Morning!
I called after tracking showed them there, Sue said they are "out for delivery"
What? I'm a residence no dock or fork 442 lbs on a skid...
we got to talking about where I lived as she is familiar with the area, and she said then your not far from "x" I said I'm right next door!
She says well that's a coincidence they are on a truck with a stop at "X"
we just pulled the boxes off the skid into my truck in the parking lot next door, took 3 minutes.
no 2 hour round trip and fuel for me!
$114 for 442 lbs. from Texas to damm close to my door!
Can't beat that!

anyway...

old tires and
painted axles
sanded and two coats of acetone thinned Rustoleum applied with a horse-hair type brush
the pics don't do justice to how well it floed out smooth and glossy.

bunks off

new tires

fresh bunks
it's the standard 12 oz. stuff. Couldn't beat the price $105 shipped for 100' roll from iboats

and parts arrived...

K O D I A K

HD parts.
Those caliper brackets, for example, are substantial.

Putting the Kodiak parts on the axles has been the easiest task yet. 4 hours start to finish including hand packing the new bearings

back side of the brakes

now I gotta mount all the EOH stuff...

hate to drill holes in the sides of beam...

hadta think something up.

looks awesome! we also have an eagle trailer and love it!

this was the way to go...

mounted the pump on rubber (slices of fuel line)

the brain is laying down so it is mounted spaced up off the aluminum with 5/16 plasic spacers I had in one of my "magic boxes" of small hardware.

all stainless thru-bolted with washers and s/s nyloc nuts. :crazy:

bunks back on

Wow, inspiring. Makes me want to redo my trailer! So how much do you have into it so far?

that's as far as I've gotten.

still have to:
wire the batteries

mount the aux 7 pin receptacle that is part of the SD harness on or in that plate. You can just plug your 4-way into this with and adapter and be done with the light wiring. I have a dual (7 and 4 pin on the side) plug on the truck so I could just plug them both (7 and 4 pin) into the truck

waiting on six brake hoses. bleed.

LED's coming

get it back on the ground and polished

make up my mind on toolboxes

install controller in the truck.

still got some work to do...

good prices (great prices actually) on parts...
doing all the work myself as usual...

$2500 give or take $100

that's
six new tires
the Kodiak 13" discs
bearings, races, seals
Full on BR SD EOH system w/2 batt. breakaway
some new brake hoses
LED lights
100' bunk carpet
a couple pieces of lumber
the aluminum sheet
truck side brake controller
small misc.

the paint on the trailer is excellent as it has low miles and is always inside...

but, like the tires...and the drum brake problems...
six years old and time to get ahold of it's condition and safety.
I'm gonna have this boat along time!

I've been acquiring those B'stones since late last year.

0 mile take-offs and new spares from under GM HD's.

I have $50 apice in them. They are a good LR E tire. The straight rib tread pattern will run cooler and channel water well (not that I want to get caught in the rain!).

Much moreso that the light truck LR E block tread "all terrain" tire that came stock.

How much clearance do you have between the bottom edges of brake pads and the rotor? On my 8 lug axles, Kodiak # 250 calipers, (same as your setup it appears) the outer pads have the worn a groove into the rotors hubs because there is no clearance. I removed the pads and ground the steel down a bit, almost to the pad itself to gain some clearance, but they still rub. Eagle suggested the grinding themselves when I called to question this. The calipers have also grooved the rotors a hair. But just enough to remove the paint. Not the 1/16" grrove like the pads have done.
Thanks

Pics: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ghlight=kodiak

Thanks for the heads-up, I will look more closely at this today and post.

I noticed there was not alot of clearance when I assembled them.

I have clearance average 1/4"

more progress...

after &*#@ing around with sheet metal screws and considering other ideas, none of which I was happy with...

I drilled and tapped 3/8-24 to secure the aluminum sheet to the frame. Also spaced it down with some more chit out of one of the magic boxes...more plastic spacers.

everything is thru-bolted

mounted the aux plug in for the lights...

had to finish the supplied end and make some wires up for the batts...

good bare metal ground for batts

I didn't like the breakaway cable straight and too long.

cut the plug end loop off and attached the original coil-cable from the surge E-brake.

I have brake lines and P3 coming Wed.

I am waiting to put the wheels/tires back on and put it on the ground 'till after I get them bled

need brake lines...
my order didn't go out for a week
and they are charging $28 frieght for 7 lbs of stuff from Mass to NY..

I expressed my dis-pleasure :angry-smiley-038:

Nice job!!!

Looks great.

I just got around getting pics of my change over. Just have to take it to a body shop and have it painted now.

I removed all the workings of the surge coupler: master cyl, top rollors, slide pins, and shocks. Installed pins in the 3 rear holes and welded them solid. Cut off the rollor pin mount brackets and welded the coupler solid, then welded a plate on top and ground the corners down to make it look like a solid sq. tube. Also welded in plates where the rear most slider pin where to clean the side frame up. Welded in a plate to fill in the top of the frame where the fluid fill was in front of the jack. More room to stand when now when operating the winch.

Mounted the break away in the same spot as you did. I did however weld a cable guide in front of the switch so that no matter what angle the cable is pulled from, it will pull the release pin out straight forward. Had to make a longer cable though. Was afraid a side ways pull could break the pins loop off instead of pulling the pin out. Hopefully will never need to use this feature. Ordering the Maxbrake controller tonight. My Voyager controller proved to be worthless.

I would like to do that! (have it done as I don't weld)

do you have anymore pics of that process?

for now is it OK to weld the coupler solid around the front perimeter of the slide sleeve?

simultaneous posts

MaxBrake. Going all the way huh?

wanted to go that route but I've got to cut the $ off somewhere for this year.

I have a P3 coming found it for $136

I see in those 2nd pics that you did.

No, just more pics of the same shots. None during the change over itself.

The electric brake trailers just have the coupler part welded along the edge from the manufactures. So I see no difference in what you are asking. I just prefer to over kill. I did fill the slots in on the coupler tube with steel, then redrilled holes though it to align with the holes that the 3 rear bolts went through. Solid pins where then installed and welded flush. No way this thing is going anywhere.
My welder/friend did say his ins doesn't cover welding on this area for liabilty reasons. So he just wrote up a non discriptive bill.

If you don't mind, could you get a measurement on the OD of your hubs, and also the overall OD of the rotors?

I have yet to run across another trailer (and I check every one at the ramps when possible) that has the clearance issue I have. I'm wondering if since when I ordered my trailer, approx 5 yrs ago, when Eagle was struggling, they didn't just grab parts off the shelf giving me a mismatch of calipers and rotors.
Thanks

I have no high tech tools...(and I was a CNC set-up machinist for a few years)
and they are installed

a piece of string (measured) will do?

if anything you have the 8K rotor?
but ...they arent available in 1/2 wheel stud

so that doesn't make sense
and if they are right the manufacturing tolerances is(were) crazy loose...

Yep, or even a yard stick measurement would be close enough.
1/8" or so should be fine.

Don't know what I have, other than 8 lugs rotors and the #250 calipers.
I had an issue with one of the calipers when new (dust seal not installed fully), so called Eagle and they sent me a new one under warrenty. They just wanted the trailer serial number to look up my build sheet. They sent a #225 caliper. Found that odd.


Thanks

30 1/4" hub section circumference

whadawe divide that by pi to get diameter?

been awhile...:p

Trailer project
 

SWEET =- Got any old tires I could use 6 - 16.5

Thanks

pi x D= cir

D=ci/pi

D=9.633 (9 5/8) :)

nice work!

the radiation physics bumped most of the machinist know-how out of my head.
I'm noticing a definite loss of storage as I get older :p

lines.

trailerpartsdepot. three 24"s and three 72" male 3/16" male IF swivel ends.

best part- $75 for all six! GREAT PRICE.

those flares are "fussy" took me an hour to get rid of all the leaks tightening (overtightening it seemed) a little at a time.

got all the leaks cured...
I took the original drop lines off and cleaned them up. Getting the steel lines to not leak at the "T"s when I put these back together was a biotch.

was about to go get 2 new 36" hard lines to replace them as the problem is the radius of the aproach, thay are just bent a little to tight to go to the bottom of the T that getting the flare to seat was a PITA

get that all straight and I find I have a leaky caliper!!!

piston o-ring or bad surface I imagine. About to get on the phone.

moving on to LED's

UPDATE:

put a call into Robert at southwestwheel. "Manuacturer defect, call them, but if they give you some long process I'll get a caliper out to you today and deal with them, they are right down the road..."

Talked to Kevin @ Kodiak, caliper going out to me today no questions asked. Return shipping on them.

his biggest problem is wanting to know who's sleeping at the test bench!

Good service.

my P3 came today as well

hopr the damm thing works good in this combo

I noticed/remembered today it was 119.95
the direct plug-in harness was 10.69

pplmotorhomes

good site/great prices

I don't have tires, but I have (6)aluminum 16.5 8-lug rims available.