drum to disc conversion on a chevy k2500
 

looking to convert drums to disc , 2000 classic(old body) to no avail , findind a good rear end out of the newer 99-02 with discs is not working , other than 1 site that offers a conversion for extreme 4x4's ,anyone know of a place or site to find a kit to do the conversion?

Eric

trie this.....

http://www.egrbrakes.com/pdf/GM14_Da..._RDConvKit.pdf

Why ?

Because its 90% more breaking power !????

I will stick it on mine too !!!!!!!!!!

They also have these for single rear wheel !!!!!!

replaced the brakes on the front end , all GM parts , just feels like the front brakes doing all the work , the drums still have a good amount of pad , wearing evenly , just seems like i don't feel them working ..

same here, and on mine ..if they get wet ( rain ) the lock up sometimes ....:party-smiley-004:

When did you last adjust them ?...The self adjusters are not all that great when you work a truck....A major reason for disc brakes..:drink:...But, not worth the effort/$ to change one over

Does something feel wrong or different or is that just a general feeling you have about the truck?

Rear brakes don't do much work on cars anyways due to front engine weight bias and further weight transfer when you slow down. When you tow or haul, rears have the capability to do more work, but generally, the hydraulics are sized to be optimum for when you are not towing and safe when you are towing.

Some trucks actually have a bias (proportioning) valve on the rear axle so that when the truck is loaded, it will send more hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.

If you do the conversion, you'll need to get the correct master cylinder for the application (and by application I mean both rear AND front caliper sizes). Lots of brake tuning is done by the OE tinkering with master cylinder piston size. If you get that wrong, the trucks handling will be whacky. Further, you'll need the right ABS tuning and those brains are tuned to apply pressure differently for drum or disc usage.

Anyway, I'm not trying to give you an instruction set but rather trying to talk you out of it :-)

You may want to try bleeding the rear circuit fully. It's rare unless you have opened it up, but possible there is an air bubble in the line that is causing less pressure to be transmitted to the rear.

thought the ABS was located at the transmission tail BBrick? , thanks , i'm looking for as much info as possible , any info is appreciated! i understand that these Kelsey Hayes systems were not really the best..


BirdDog , just using as a daily driver now , i will see about the adjustment this week , the truck has a 454 , so i have weight on the front , maybe i should have went bigger on the fronts to begin with , but with being a 4x4 , i would have needed wheels and all that stuff , i am happy with the steel wheel/trim ring , call me simple...

Shoes need to be adjusted.

SInce the advent of ABS, all vehicles get more rear bias than they used to. GM even used a setup where the front brakes wouldn't get pressure until the valve sensed the rear shoes were making contact.