trailer brakes dragging.
#1
I have a Rocket trailer with drum surge brakes. The brakes are being held on hydraulicly, enough to make the tires skid on gravel when pulled unloaded. When I opened a bleeder on a wheel cylinder I heard all 4 brakes release. The actuator is holding pressure in the system. The tongue seems fully pulled out. Anyone run into this? Just wondering where to look before I pull the tongue and actuator apart to look for a bind.
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#3
Are you running a WD hitch?
Does it drag right away, or only after you have towed for a bit, and also used reverse? Perhaps your solenoid is acting up and creating locked pressure?
Maybe related, maybe unrelated, but you might look into a bleeding solenoid setup. It allows pressure from the brake side of the solenoid to bleed back into the MC. This is especially needed when you tow with surge brakes though hilly areas.
Surge brake couplers do wear out. I had my old one rebuilt locally with parts bought from Champion Trailer Parts on the web.
Does it drag right away, or only after you have towed for a bit, and also used reverse? Perhaps your solenoid is acting up and creating locked pressure?
Maybe related, maybe unrelated, but you might look into a bleeding solenoid setup. It allows pressure from the brake side of the solenoid to bleed back into the MC. This is especially needed when you tow with surge brakes though hilly areas.
Surge brake couplers do wear out. I had my old one rebuilt locally with parts bought from Champion Trailer Parts on the web.
#4
Probably caused by one of two things. Flex hose with an internal tear acting as a one way check valve or, rust build up in the master cylinder. Crack the line loose at the master, if the brakes release, rust is most likely the cause. If they dont, crack the line loose at the flex hose furthest from master cylinder and see if they release.
#5
Brian,
No I don't have a WD, although I am thinking of getting one.
I think Air Packer is right. All 4 brakes released when I cracked the line. I blew air back into the MC to try and clear the return. Seems to be working right now. Maybe I can get through the summer and have it rebuilt during the winter.
No I don't have a WD, although I am thinking of getting one.
I think Air Packer is right. All 4 brakes released when I cracked the line. I blew air back into the MC to try and clear the return. Seems to be working right now. Maybe I can get through the summer and have it rebuilt during the winter.
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#8
I dragged it through gravel, so no damage. Did you convert to electric over hydrolic or straight electric? I didn't think electric brakes would stand up to the dunkings.
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#9
Registered

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Total cost for all new bearings, seals, races, Four 12x2 electric brake assemblies, breakaway kit, and wiring, 400 bucks.
I like having the ability to adjust the braking from the cab. Pulled my buddies boat the other day, which has straight electric. My dually stopped better with the boat in tow, than no trailer at all.
#10
Registered
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 532
Likes: 1
From: Lapeer, MI
I've been having the same problem with the calipers on my disc brakes, tri-axle with six wheel brakes. When one starts hanging up I replace the caliper and no more problem....except I'm on my third caliper in three years and would rather find the problem and resolve it than to keep replacing....anybody have any ideas?



