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Originally Posted by kneeslider74
(Post 3662526)
I also get 34 mpg highway and 14 mpg pulling the cat.
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Originally Posted by Catmando
(Post 3378019)
What year? 2500, 3500? Dually? The new 68RFE is a much better tranny than the 48RE but an upgrade on the TC is always a good thing and relatively cheap peace of mind.
Originally Posted by Catmando
(Post 3572973)
Valair is a good tranny too, lots of Cummins guys who tow heavy and/or have lots of power use Valair.
Originally Posted by JD Dearden
(Post 3586175)
Those water meth kits are very risky. Only the high price competition kits actually work. The others like snow don't make enough PSI to actually maintain a atomized flow. Buy a bigger turbo if you want to lower EGT's...
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Originally Posted by kneeslider74
(Post 3662526)
I have a 2008 3/4 ton 6.7, 4x4. If you look close the paint is the worst. Along the seams under the hood did not cover. ABS sensor issues, but worst of all, the rear frame flexa soooo much it has bent the wheel wells very bad. I thought it was just too much tongue weight until another guy asked me if I had that same issue. I don't even have 35k on the truck, and have only 2000 miles pulling the boat 10000 lbs.
I will say that the motor is now the best part of the unit. MADS Smarty, full ex., egr delete and the 250hp ME tune. I also get 34 mpg highway and 14 mpg pulling the cat. Check your wheel wells, It will look like a dent or two and then it just keeps getting worse.:poopoo: I saw 31mpg once going downhill with the wind at my back after an oil change. 5.9 engine was stock. I don't believe you can get the mileage you claim out of your 6.7 no matter the mods you've done. |
Originally Posted by magnum350
(Post 3662558)
On a stock truck with a tranny tune, maybe. in the performance world, no...
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I was referring to the 68RFE being a better tranny than the 48RE.
A good valve body and torque converter upgrade is a good idea in ANY transmission. |
Thinking of doing the h&s route myself on my 2012 cummins. I would like some better mileage and so far I have had to change the oil twice per the evic in 4100 miles. I'm hearing this is because of all the emissions crap pulling soot into the oil
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Originally Posted by Prostreet144
(Post 3735739)
Thinking of doing the h&s route myself on my 2012 cummins. I would like some better mileage and so far I have had to change the oil twice per the evic in 4100 miles. I'm hearing this is because of all the emissions crap pulling soot into the oil
Go to www.cumminsforum.com you'll find all the information you need to make the right choices for your engine. |
Offshorexcursion, why did you chose a srw over a drw?
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Originally Posted by Prostreet144
(Post 3735739)
Thinking of doing the h&s route myself on my 2012 cummins. I would like some better mileage and so far I have had to change the oil twice per the evic in 4100 miles. I'm hearing this is because of all the emissions crap pulling soot into the oil
I only hand calculate my Fuel economy while towing heavy, and have gained a solid 2mpg. I always run the programmer on the "stock, no power added" level. Any higher level, while towing, lowers fuel economy (even though the factory computer claims higher fuel economy, hand calculated its lower) Plus the truck does not need any more power, unless its for fun playing around! |
Originally Posted by tnc110
(Post 3735991)
Offshorexcursion, why did you chose a srw over a drw?
The only difference in the Ram truck in the DRW vs SRW is the rear swaybar, 2 extra tires, but all 6 are narrower. Mine also has air bags in the rear (which work better then overload springs and a swaybar). Now if I was hauling PAYLOAD only, in the bed, like a slide in truck camper, or pallets of block, etc. I would own a DRW. I have experienced ZERO negatives in over 1 Million loaded miles, and seen no proof of any, with a SRW that has upgraded rims and tires. |
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