08 fastech 292

I'll second SYDWYZ's guarantee. I never knew trailering could be so much easier.

I had a local trailer company buy the Braker Rite II off the internet at a big discount. All said and done cost me $1,700, about $200 of that was re-wiring the existing pig-tail to a more heavy duty version. etrailer.com still has the Braker Rite II for $684. You'll need a mounting bracket and adapter/controller depending on how your truck is set up.

I was going to do myself, but figured I'd be better off letting an expert do it.

JTeam

I also just purchased a trailer from Manning and went with EOH for an extra 500 bucks. I always had surge brakes but went with EOH mostly due to the recommendations here on OSO. What a difference. I'm amazed at how fast I can stop now.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, And you have brakes while backing down the ramp! No more front wheels sliding.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I know this is the rule for checking for live wires, but never heard it used to check for heat. Whenever I touch a hot surface, my reaction has always been to jerk my hand away, not grab onto it tighter.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

years ago i had a customer that had another place convert his trailer to disc brakes,,he put about 500 miles on it and when i got a hold of it the pads were worn down to nothing.. Yhe place he had install the conversion kit (morons) ran a steel line to the caliper and not rubber lines.The steel brake lines were keeping the calipers from floating which wore the inside pads out to the rotor

After i ran new brake lines and rubber hoses the calipers were staying on, so i pulled the master and low and behold they never drilled out the center of the fluid hole inside the master (check valve).. the pin hole size in the master is for drum brakes and the larger hole is for disc brakes..

they may have put a drum brake acuator on your trailer and all you have to do it open up the fluid hole in the master( check valve)..

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

My Eagle trailer has steel lines going to the calipers.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

i have seen on some trailers that the lines going to the calipers looked like steel lines but were painted plastic lines..take a closer look or run a magnet over them and see if it sticks.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

They are steel. No question there. They have enough of a loop in them that they move freely at the caliper. Not fastened close to the caliper, but a foot inward on the axle tube.

Expensive Date

Thanks,lots of good info.I have not looked at it yet been crazy busy.Kinda leaning toward the hole was not opened up in the master so will check that first.If thats not it will get a new actuator sent out.Might convert to EOH this winter but thats a fall project not July,will let everyone know what I find.

Expensive Date

Ok,finally got to look at this
I jacked the trailer up wheels were free,using the safety brake engaged fine and released.Removed back up solenoid and inspected master for problems and to see if it was for drum brakes,seemed fine.Reassembled, bleed tested brakes with trailer still jacked up worked fine.Hooked my truck up took out for about 10 miles on a back road hit the brakes a few times then stopped rotor temp was 170 which is fine
The only thing I did was greased the actuator it has a fitting on the top roller I also changed my driving style so when starting off hit the throttle a little harder so I know brakes are disengaged.The only part I am questioning is the reverse solenoid as the brakes did not want to disengage backing into the driveway.I am wondering if it is holding pressure sometimes either way I am changing it.Other than that I was in traffic last Monday on and off the brakes a lot so its possible that as the actuator was never greased it was sticking.Don't know but if it does it again after I change the solenoid I am changing the actuator.I am also going to try a new trailer harness connector I have one and doubt thats it but will use it tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for there input and help