Ez lube has a little rubber plug in the center of the dust cover take the plug out and you will see the grease fitting

the only way that could happen is if you over pressurize it with air, using the same air pump as inflating sports equipment that would take lots of pumping, the grease is in static, meaning not under pressure. air just creates a positive back pressure so when it is dunked the heat wont suck water in.

fixx
 

good to know,,ill tell by buddy that used his shop air..he blew hin inner seals and got grease every where..

lol, oh my, yea that's way too much, it only recommends i think 3-7 lbs. by using the ball inflator and same needle, after 3 or so pumps the rubber on the front will push out like an outtie belly button and they are good.

+1

Air tites
 

Grease, Grease, Greasy sheez..... With the Air tites you pack your bearings normally, Add the rear seal with the air tight sealant, put it together and your done! All you need to do is check the front rubber before you launch, If its plumped out a bit your good to go. If its flat add a pump of air from a sports pump. I keep it in my door pocket of my truck. Two seconds....NO GREASE BLOWN ALL OVER THE WHEELS OR YOU BOAT!! EZ

on the ezlubes, make sure the zerk is off to side and not in center. the cotter pin crosses the bore, restricts grease getting to rear bearing. the hubs with gear lube move "alot" easier and that would be my choice over pumping grease.

The 2 EZ Lube trailers that I have use locking tabs NOT cotter pins.
It's still the best system because you're able to push fresh grease through your bearings any time you want unlike any other system. Additionally, I've never had water enter an EZLube axle.

Airtight is best for an existing system. I installed the airtight 4 years ago and still have the same air in them. EZ lube is nice but not swapping an axle to get it.

Well, the more I looked at the trailer and the project, the more the parts list (and cost) continued to grow.

Screw it. Ordered a new trailer.:evilb: