Exactly, I have a 08 F350 diesel & I still put mine in 4x4 LOW RANGE when pulling out of the lake. Its so much easier on the engine trans. My boat is not very big or heavy but It will pull out on an idle & I never slip a tire!

$500 per axle installed is about right. I assume its 4x4. If its 2wd disregard this whole post :lolhit:

I use 4 low as well, my problem isn't leaving the ramp, it's once I pull onto the street I'm immediately starting with a 8% grade. It's short but would like to not keep it hammered if I can avoid it. Thinking about some power adders now... Just depends if they end up on the truck or the boat??

The biggest change you will notice is your gas mileage. The towing difference will be marginal. ou can do the same just by putting shorter tires on the truck. Better ways to gain the power. Muffler or exhaust, K&N filter cold air intake, reprogram, ect. These should get you what you need and better gas mileage at the same time. Plus you won't take the chance of messing up the truck if your trading it in anyways.

The hills are the killer difference. Towing my 242 with the 04 and 4:10 6.0L I could run cruise on BIG and long hills and rarely ever would the truck shift out of OD. With my 07 2500 Suburban at 3:73 it would shift out of OD before I could really even realize I was running up an incline. There really was quite a noticeable difference between 4:10 and 3:73 when the tow vehicle is pulling the weight on hills.

Now I run a Dmax and love it but it is 3:73 and if it doesn't please me on a bigger boat, like a 382, then it will get 4:10 put in it.

You don't need a CDL unless your trucks registered weight is 26000 lbs. or more, or your combined registered weight is 26000 lbs. or more with a trailer registered for 10000 lbs. or more. As far as the health cert. goes that can get tricky. Technically anything rated for 10000 lbs. or over a health certification is required. Unless your truck is registered to you personally not a business and what you are hauling or towing belongs to you and you aren't being paid to haul it.

I'm curious about the mileage thing. I know on paper it's supposed to get worse but here's my argument. I had an 05 Trailblazer with the 4.2 275hp I6 with the 3.42's and it got horrendous mileage. The following year I bought a Trailblazer SS with the 395 horse 6.0 with 4.10's and got Much better mileage the the 6. I'm almost thinking that since the motor doesn't have to work as hard it may not be a noticeable difference. (Currently 12.6 combined)

Exactly what I was hoping to hear.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I think it all depends on the powerband while at highway speeds. Personally, I don't see going from a 3.73 to a 4.10 making much of a difference accelerating up a incline at 25-35mph. Now, holding a steady speed of 65mph up a incline, the 4.10's might keep the little 6.0 liter gasser in its powerband a little better, or even when cruising down the freeway on flatground.

My point, don't expect much seat of the pants from the gear swap. The 6.0L gasser is a great engine, but its no big block, and its no turbo diesel. If hill climbing quickly tickles your fancy, try out a new diesel. In reality, a 32 Fountain, or a old heavy 30FT cat, is a lot of boat for a half ton truck with a small gas engine. The truck is better suited to a 24ft single engine boat.

Agreed on many points. Waiting until October (truck month) to pick up a diesel. I feel the fords carry weight better but absolutely love the duramax/Allison combo, esp since I'm going to start looking at 35's soon.

If you do end up regearing, I would skip the 4.10's and jump straight to the 4.56's. 3.73 to 4.10 isn't much of a difference. I have noticed that the deeper gears get better mileage all around in most cases, since the engine stays in its powerband and doesn't lug as much. The lone exception being (flat, non hilly) interstate travel at over 75MPH.

That being said, Diesel is definately the way to go, or even a newer gasser with the 6 speed trans and 4.10's, HUGE improvement.

If you're shopping, look around Presidents day, big sales around that time, and Chevy is going to be trying to move all of the '13's in anticipation of the new body style being released here shortly. Last time they changed styles, in 07, I was able to save over 10 grand on an 07 1500 Classic. The savings on the HD's at the time was closer to 12 or 15K. I could have driven off the lot in a crew cab shortbed duramax K2500 for 29K.

By the time you regear, and reprogram for the new gears, you are going to be closer to $2000, if not over. Most places charge closer to a grand to regear the front IFS differential alone. If you just need some more grunt, try a good tune (EFI live with dyno tune, or trifecta, etc, not just a handheld) you should notice a world of difference.

"Suffer" with what you have one more season. If you are planning to get rid of it, the time and expense are not worth it for a few pulls and the work will likely reduce the buyer pool making it harder to sell. At a minimum, induce question as to whether the job was done correctly for long term durability.

If the bogging is just unbareable, then bite the bullet sooner and enjoy pulling for an extra season in the new Dmax :cool: