hotjava66

Read some older threads, looking for some updated info. Anyone using them? I have never had the need, but just picked up a 1/2 ton Chevy on a lease deal I could not turn down. It would be close to maxed out with my boat but it sure would be nice to pull with it on short trips if I feel the urge. Don't want to do anything to the truck itself since its a lease but a good WD hitch I could keep around. Just wondering if they are worth buying, and which ones are better/easier to use. Don't want a huge PITA to hook up, have it binding on tight turns, have to unhook for backing up etc. Any pitfalls when hooking to a boat trailer? Even worth getting? Don't need a lecture on trucks and towing, I know it's marginal, and still have my Duramax if I need it.

Port Monster

iTrader: (1)

They say not to use them if you have straight hydraulic brakes on the trailer.

soldier4402

yeah good point wouldnt think that would be a good idea.


Question is what are you pulling size and weight. And what chevy do you have the old model or the new model

Port Monster

iTrader: (1)

30' Baja 280 sport on a steel trailer. I am guessing 7000 - 8000 lbs. I have an 07 suburban with the 5.3. Yes it is heavy for the vehicle but I take it slow and am never in a rush. Plus I actually do use the weight distributing hitch with the hydraulic brakes. There is enough play in the chains that the brakes function. Eventually I would like to go electric over hydraulic but it is not in the cards at this time.

speicher lane

Have you considered adding an air bag spring helper system - they just bolt in place with no mods and when your lease is up, unbolt it and sell it on ebay if you wanted to.

That gives you the option haul different "heavier" trailers not just the one with the WD mounts on it

ThisIsLivin

Even if the chains are 1' they effect the performance of the surge brakes due the added load on the tongue from the torque of the spring bars. Tongue weight with surge brakes should be just over 10% for best handling and brake operation. WD hitches use the hitch ball as the fulcrum in their operation and that puts extra load on the sliding tongue assembly.

Port Monster

iTrader: (1)

I have read that the WD hitch should not be used with the hydraulic brakes but I decided to do a test run with it anyway. Did some starts and stops and turns etc. in a controlled environment and the trailer performed better with the WD hitch. I can't explain it and never would have believed it either but that is my experience. I am not suggesting that others try it either.

hotjava66

Going to change the trailer over to EOH so it should be fine. It has disc brakes so its just a matter of putting on the EOH unit and swapping out the surge coupler for a solid one. Have not been happy with the surge brakes anyway due to having to use those crappy back up solenoids and all the issues i get from them.

hotjava66

Besides even with airbags the factory hitch is only rated to 5k without WD and 10.5k with.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Basically, all of the factory hitches are junk, period.

They are rated for their max capacity only with the WD hitch setup. Simplest solution would be to bolt on a stouter Class-V hitch that can support your towed load as a Weight Carrying setup. A Class-V hitch and Grade-8 bolts will probably run you less than a WD hitch setup, and you won't have to modify your trailer with a pole-tongue adapter or anything which can be a bit of a PITA to make work.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...cleid=20138556

I ran WD on my surge brake trailer for a couple years; my pics are here on OSO from years past. Knowing what I do now; I'd never, ever do it again. My setup was adequate, and I made sure I had it set up right. But that whole 8 foot area between the back of the frame of your truck, and the winch stand of your boat is NOT the area to go with "adequate" on any of the components. Preferred--is preferred. Overkill is mucho-bettero.