soldier4402

yeah if the factory can do that for 100 bucks, I would wouldnt even dick with it.

soldier4402

see im curious on this because all pressure treated wood uses chromated copper arsenate or alkaline copper quat, which doesnt contain any salt. Im looking at doing my bunks just for good measure the trailer older. I think I have PT wood on it already but its coated in something black. Either way I have not seen any stains or what not on the trailer now. I would just see regular pine lasting a fraction of the time and becoming brittle. PT wood I would just ensure its nice and dried out before installing and ensure to use coated or SS fastners.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for that info. I did some checking per your post and you are quite right; the chemical that is used is no longer a salt. It used to be though, which is where I've had my experience. I got my info from Myco when I called them when redoing my trailer; and this was several seasons ago.

The big question: What are trailer manufacturers (Myco) using now?

I had some "treated" wood inside of an aluminum toolbox on my trailer. The wood and toolbox got wet when I had to back in deep on a crappy ramp. When I went back to clean it up after the weekend; there was around 1/2" thick of crap that had drained from the wood and affixed itself to the bottom of the toolbox. I had to scrape it out with a putty knife. It was nasty. Granted, this wood was not fresh wood, and probably had a few different iterations of chemicals in it. I see traces of this on my aluminum trailer on the bunk supports as well; but it appears as though this may not be an issue with current treatments.

I am going to spend some time examining the tags on the treated wood next time I am in Lowes or Home Depot. I wonder if different regions and mills use different chemicals. Folks in the midwest are not exposed to the same elements as folks on the coasts.

Knot 4 Me

I've owned Prestige and Heritage trailers and both used treated 2 X 6's for their bunks. The fender boards are another story!! I went with 1/2" treated plywood when I rebuilt them. I've seen a lot of Myco trailers without these boards. I can't imagine towing without them.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I agree. My Myco does not have these, but my last trailer, a McClain did have them. The issue is the fenders vibrate so much that the wood splinters and they come loose ALL the time. PITA! I was always bungee tying them down.

Eventually, I'd like to have some in diamond plate aluminum.

soldier4402

yeah Im not sure. I know you have to be careful of PT and what it sits on. I would suggest its well dried out before attaching to anything. The wood is milled then treated and then sits outside and I dont think it fully dries out. Thats why they say to let wood sit a year before staining so it dries out.

VoodooRob

I have no idea what wood the new bunks direct from Eagle are made of. They were completely wrapped in carpet when I received them. The factory lag bolt fasteners were nothing special, they were very rusty and not coated or treated with anything. I asked when ordering the new bunks for new hardware and the factory told me they do not use stainless or coated, the boards will wear out before the fasteners. They did suggest new fasteners for install, the new lags will "self tap" very easy and they did. The wood definitely was not PT by the way the screws went right into the boards without pilot holes.

Knot 4 Me

Funny you mention diamond plate. I tossed that idea around but without a water jet to cut them out on figured they would be too labor intensive to cut and belt sand to my standard of fit and finish.

obnoxus

Yep,,,not worth the time or effort,,,,I just get them straight from Eagle

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

I did the same thing, but picked them up from the factory when they were in Michigan. Couldn't find the wood/carpet and do it myself for what they charged.