EOH conversion questions
05-13-2014 | 05:21 PM
#11
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From: Florence, Kentucky
Mine won't work unless I prime the system by removing the breakaway switch. It's weird. I know it says to test the breakaway but even having it hooked up to the truck the manual controller doesn't work until I prime it. Brakerite 2...
05-13-2014 | 06:08 PM
#12
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From: Collierville, TN and Pickwick Lake
That's for a Dexter unit which in my opinion is the best available. I'll post prices on the Carlisle and Dexter both disc and drum later or in the morning.
05-13-2014 | 06:14 PM
#13
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From: Collierville, TN and Pickwick Lake
Try bleeding you system again and make sure you have a ground wire DIRECT FROM THE UNIT TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. This is very important. We haul trailers on a 40 gooseneck and there was a long lag in the trailer brake unit building enough pressure to be effective until I installed the ground wire. Prior to that I had the unit grounded to the trailer frame but that wasn't sufficient. I'll check to make sure your controller is compatible with your brake unit. Not all are compatible. Which one do you have?
Last edited by payuppsucker; 05-13-2014 at 06:17 PM.
05-13-2014 | 06:25 PM
#14
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From: Collierville, TN and Pickwick Lake
I've read every post on this subject on OSO,,,so much great information! I trust what I've read, just can't figure out how a proportional controller can sense any DECELERATION on a vehicle that is backing down a ramp !!?? Maybe the sensing device works in both directions as long as the brakes are applied. I've asked the question at Tekonsha...will share the answer for any other anal idiots that might want to know 
05-13-2014 | 06:29 PM
#15
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From: Collierville, TN and Pickwick Lake
I am going to install myself, so no estimates...but...it looks like for me (your needs may vary): ...actuator ($550-700), in-cab controller ($125-350), breakaway battery setup ($75-100), plus any installation hardware-wiring, brackets,welding, etc. So it looks to be at or just under $1K doing it yourself...add $$$ to have it done in shop. payuppsucker seems to have the goods and helpful info!
05-13-2014 | 06:45 PM
#16
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From: Florence, Kentucky
Try bleeding you system again and make sure you have a ground wire DIRECT FROM THE UNIT TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. This is very important. We haul trailers on a 40 gooseneck and there was a long lag in the trailer brake unit building enough pressure to be effective until I installed the ground wire. Prior to that I had the unit grounded to the trailer frame but that wasn't sufficient. I'll check to make sure your controller is compatible with your brake unit. Not all are compatible. Which one do you have?
05-13-2014 | 07:32 PM
#17
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
payuppsucker will confirm I'm sure.
05-13-2014 | 07:38 PM
#18
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Now that's what I need to know! I can't find that information anywhere in their descriptions. I've had several members say they have trailer brakes backing down a ramp with both Prodigy 2 and 3. Also just found this from Tekonsha sight..."Great for backing into tough spots! Works proportionally in reverse with the ability to disable when not needed" so the internal sensor must detect inertia both ways!
05-13-2014 | 07:48 PM
#19
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Thanks!
Dan
Trailer= 1997 Eagle Tri-axle , drums on all 3 axles (3500lb)
Tow Vehicle= 2004 Avalanche 2500
05-13-2014 | 09:02 PM
#20
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From: Florence, Kentucky
It's not a matter of fluid or ground. It doesn't work unless I pull the breakaway and allow it to prime. The in can detects it the moment it is plugged it. The motor doesn't turn on unless I pull tr pin
