JPD Motorsports

Sydways.. That truck is rare. But on the mmr reports it's showing comp at auction 6100-7900 with 85k an 74k miles average to clean cond. If I was all in it with makeready for 8-9k an 10,500 came across I would have sold it.. Sure I would have left a little money on the table, but how long before I was able to sell it for full..

Slippery

Wannabe -

Couple thoughts - the primary factor in the price difference between a '14 or '15 HD is the amount of incentive monies available.

The amount available on the '14's are about as high as they ever get because of the situation i.e. old body style v new, old interior and electronics v. new "stuff". The incentive monies on the '15's will probably increase later in the year, but I doubt will get as high as they are now on the 14's as the demand vs. supply means that GM simply doesn't have to put money on the hood yet to move them.

'14 availability is getting worse daily, if you're going to pull the trigger on one of them don't wait too long.

Don't exclude the 3500 from your shopping; very little ride difference and also very little price difference when configured alike.

Last thought - money is always an issue, ,but if it isn't "the" issue the difference in $$'s over the time you're going to keep the truck really isn't much…get the one you like. If you like everything about the 14, get the 14 (while you can) BUT $7K difference over 10 years isn't much especially when you figure the higher resale of the 2015 when you do decide to get rid of it. The interiors and electronics in the 15's are all new and a step up from the 14's.

Just my .02, your mileage may vary, good luck & hope this helps

S

BIGSLOW

If it were me I would start with the LBZ Duramax's and go up from there. I had an LB7 2004 3500 CC dually LT (now considered the LTZ) which was the first Duramax, all it had was a banks six gun chip and an exhaust. I had to do injectors when I bought it, I got it for a deal ($9,900) because of it and my buddy did the injectors $2500. Next the head gaskets blew, so I had those replaced along with the injector cups $3800. The truck never ran right again after that and felt like I was towing a boat anchor, come to find out, the injectors need to be treated like they are in a medical facility clean room. When the injectors were pulled for the head gasket job, dirt had gotten in the lines and trashed the injectors. I couldn't prove that it was the mechanics fault so I traded it in with 175,000 mi on it and needing new injectors. Got $12,000 for it on trade and got a 2013 fully loaded CC/SB LT with 26,000 mi on it for $37,000. The LB7's were great motors once you got the injector issues worked out. The key here was fuel filtering, which was a major oversight from the manufacturer. A lift pump and the extra filters is the best modification that you can do for the duramax's. 2004.5 was the start of emissions stuff with the LLY having a catalytic converter which can be deleted. The LBZ's came with the best engine and the 6 speed transmission and you could also delete all the emission crap off that and make the truck come to life. The LBZ is a favorite of the Duramax crowd because of the few emission items that needed to be deleted, the injector issues were fixed, and the 6 speed transmission. They are also treated like gold and a good condition low mileage one will go for a high price.

All the duramax's are good. Just do a little preventative maintenance by getting a lift pump installed, make sure to change your fuel filters at least every 10,000 mi, and buy fuel from stations that go through a lot of it. (Sadly I learned this the hard way) Before you buy a used one, have the balance rates on the injectors tested. It is an easy test that a dealership can do.