Boat Trailers are a PITA!
 

Is it just me, or do most members have more issues with their trailer than the boat that sits on it?

I took yesterday off to spend a quiet day at our local lake with the wife. Do my customary walk around before we leave all is good. Stop for gas, and do another walk around and all is good. Get 5 miles down the road coming to a stop light and start braking. All is fine and then NOTHING! NO BRAKES! Thank goodness for the Allison Transmission as it can do a lot of work slowing you down but still, not a good situation. I get to a spot to stop and walk around checking everything and all I can tell is one of the brake lines failed and lost the brake fluid.

Since I'm 1 mile from the lake, I decide to press on and give everything a good check in the marina parking lot. I get 1/2 mile from the marina and the trailer starts "bouncing around" at any speed over 30 MPH. We limp into the parking lot and now one of the brake calipers is off the bracket and hanging between the disc and the wheel. I pull the wheel and remove the caliper. Since its 11:00 AM we decide what the heck and put the boat in. With the boat off the trailer I now find that one of the other brake calipers is lose as well! I tighten it up so we can get back home, luckily only an 11 mile trip and no hills.

I just spent $1,800 have the entire brake system re-done on the trailer in June. There is another post here on that one. So obviously the person who did this work did not torque the mounting bolts on the calipers and forgot thread lock. I called the trailer place and they will stand behind their work, they are very reputable. But its the aggravation that gets me.

The boat sits on a Phoenix tri-axle trailer that came with the boat. Its been adequate, but would not call it high or exceptional quality. Strongly considering having a new trailer built at this point as mine is showing some rust and will likely need painting in a year or two. I'm pretty picky about keeping things looking good. The boat is in perfect condition and want a trailer that looks the same.

I feel better now. Back to work.

Dave

Not sure what you are towing with but you mention an Allison so it has to be a 2500+ GM product......Towing a 292 shouldn't be a burden for that truck. I pulled a 32 Sunsation on a Nextrail for years with no brakes with a Duramax 2500. The trailer had surge brakes but after a couple years they were junk (rusted out). I had a 4 mile pull to the ramp and just ran it with no brakes. The trailer did hit a point when it cost me a ton of money ($2500 rebuild) and I only paid $4500 for the whole trailer brand new! I sold it for 3K on craigslist in less than a week but in hindsight I should have just sold it before the repairs and just bought a new one again!

Man do I feel your pain - I only had a delaminated tire and I thought my world was coming to an end -- just the thought of trying to fix it on the road scares the heck out of me - besides all I could envision was the boat flopping off and tearing it up. Since you are in Carmel - (I'm in Indianapolis doing some work right now) - did you think of taking the trailer up to Elkhart - RV Capital of the World - find somebody up there to re-do or re-manufacturer?? I live in Ganger and I know you can't spit up here without hitting something related to a trailer. In fact I think there is an EZ Loader site right off the Indiana Toll Road in Elkhart.

good luck

3pointstar

I use a company called Northside Trailer in Zionesville. They have done all my trailer work for the last 17 years and this is the first time I've had a issue with their work. I know (hope) they will stand behind their work but thanks for the suggestion.

No you're not alone!

I am on my fourth trailer, three boats and one 16' cargo. Every single one of them had given me problems on all different levels. From two trailers shearing off lug nuts, blowout, two tires on the same trip de-laminating, to brake systems not working all the way down to upgraded paint not holding up to basic road debris.

My current trailer that is only a few months old from builder that everyone says does a great job has all four wheels with metal corrosion and it's only be dunked in brackish water twice and fresh twice! It also has been washed after each use. They installed center caps that trap water! The trapped water eventually leaks out down the wheel and corrodes the aluminum! They also used cap lug nuts that also leak! I am going to send them an email today about this, so who know how this will all end.

Not that this makes your problems any better to deal with, but boat trailers are a big PITA even when you spend top dollar on them.

This is my first boat/trailer. Boat has been flawless for three seasons and the trailer has broken three times. Its eaten two bearings, a master cylinder and I had it freeze up a wheel cylinder with the brakes ON a few weeks ago. Pulled the wheel and hub off, yanked out the brake shoes and kept on going.... in rush hour traffic on the shoulder, in chicago. :mad:

The thing is, I always check the trailer out too. I just tow it very infrequently since i keep my boat in the water. Its probably not doing it any favors dunking it, then not moving for a couple months at a time.

I don't think you need a new trailer, but I'm not standing there looking at it either.

Have the boat lifted off in the fall, and do a check on everything. Replace the bunks and carpet if needed. Check torque on everything. Put thread locker where it needs to be, and never-seize on the lug nuts.

IF you decide you need a new trailer, I'd call Manning (in Michigan) given where you are located, and have them build you a welded ALUMINUM trailer. It will triple your resale market come time to move up.


LOTS of people skimp on trailers. (I'm not accusing anyone of such here.) But dealers didn't often spec a top quality trailer when they used to stock/floorplan boats. And people that are buying used boats are often at the top of their price bracket, and the focus on the boat, and the trailer is a "companion" or "tool".
A trailer is NOT a tool. It's a COMPLIMENT to the boat, and needs to be of same & strong caliber. It's a VEHICLE and it has life threatening consequences when something goes south.
If that caliper came out of that wheel at speed and went through someone's windshield: bad.
If that wheel/tire locked up and put you into the next lane all of a sudden: bad.
If you couldn't stop in a panic, not realizing you didn't have brakes: bad.

Every winter I spend a day re-packing bearings and crawling around under the trailer looking for anything wrong. Not saying it's been trouble free but my problems have been rare. There's no boating in the winter so if I find I need to leave it taken apart for a few days it doesn't matter since I have nothing else going on anyway!

I sure hope you're right.

I really haven't had any issues with my Myco, greese wheel bearing, change brakes.

Of course as it's a 2000 I had to replace bunks and carpet a few years ago but it pulls nice and no complaints.

I hate my aluminum trailer it pos it rattles the fenders are flimsy and its one of those that's the correct size for the boat per the trailer manufacturer but the trailer stops short of the transom and the bunks stick out. I hate that to me that's hard on everything and looks liks total crap. as far as problems so far this summer I haven't had any but im bout to tear into the trailer in prep for a road trip and no telling what I might find.

Buyers on both coasts will show more interest in a freshwater boat on an aluminum trailer vs. a steel trailer; not to mention anywhere in between. The last thing your budget minded boater wants to buy is a new (aluminum) trailer when buying the next boat they are trying to afford.

That's a skimped bolt together aluminum I-beam trailer. They are not all like that. You can have a nice bolt together aluminum I-beam trailer, or a cheap one that barely cuts the mustard. I'd venture to say, yours probably does not look like this, even though "categorically" they are the same.

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I had a POS Rocket aluminum bolt together trailer under my last boat. I rebuilt almost every component on that trailer, and it was still marginal. I should have just bought another properly setup trailer.

My current boat came with an aluminum bolt-together trailer from McClain. While my welded aluminum Myco is far and away better, the properly scoped McClain was a nice package for the money. And BTW, the Myco is not without it's problems too. I've had to have cracked welds fixed, and will need to do the same again soon.

Ordered a new trailer for my Cig from Manning last week - priced a Myco it was 6k more with 6 lug wheels and c - channel versus the tube steel and 8 lug wheels on the Manning. Every trailer has issues at some point - maintenance can help catch them early, but consider the abuse they take.

I look at my trailer as an opportunity to learn wiring...because every time I trailer I'm fixing some wiring. I have learned a lot and I think I almost have her sorted out!

I did send Manning an email to start the process of getting a quote. I believe Expensive Date had one built for his 292 and liked it a lot.

It's a Peterson it seems like it was a nice trailer at one point just not my style trailer.

My current boat came with an aluminum bolt-together trailer from McClain. While my welded aluminum Myco is far and away better, the properly scoped McClain was a nice package for the money. And BTW, the Myco is not without it's problems too. I've had to have cracked welds fixed, and will need to do the same again soon.[/QUOTE]

I know of more than a few Myco Alum. trailers that have cracked, which is crazy for the $$ you pay for them.... I like my Myco C-channel Steel trailer, just have to stay after it in saltwater use. My Performance Alum. trailer that is under the Talon is a great bolt together trailer, and since we have (2) lifts our trailers only get used a couple times a years anyway...

Bought a Manning for my 31 Sonic last year. Build was on time and as promised. Loading and trailering are excellent.

They build a great trailer that tows on long hauls wonderfully and the boat so far has loaded perfectly each time. The trailer is a tank, hands down. Think about getting 16" wheels, they make a huge difference.

~~But~~

DO NOT GET IT PAINTED!

And make sure the center caps drain! I have 4 aluminum wheels that are all corroded after just 2 saltwater and only 2 freshwater dunks on a trailer that's only a couple months old. And yes! I washed the boat and trailer with soap and water after the salt runs.

I emailed them and they said they drill holes so the center caps so the water can drain, our caps have no holes. They said I should drill them myself or remove them and I need to call the wheel supplier. I already know how this is going to end, everyone else pointing fingers over their shoulder with the customer paying in the end.

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I will share my opinion.

C channel steel hot dipped galv'ed, with all stainless steel bolt package. Self healing if scratched. I have dunked mine in salt several times this year, and not one speck of rust anywhere. Very little chance of a weld cracking, and much stiffer than an aluminum. I went with 16" wheels with E rated tires. Surge brakes, disk on all 4. Build time was spot on, and the company was very easy to work with.

Loadmaster out of Port Clinton Oh will have my biz from now on if I ever need a new trailer.

Was it cheap, no, but how can you put a price on being stranded in nowheresville.

This will be the last trailer I will have to buy for the 292.

Maybe you have a bad set, my wheels look the same and i have zero corrosion to date. But it does look like some body went ape sht cra on putting the lug bolts on with an impact gun with a socket just pounding at the aluminum.

Why didn't you go EOH?

Got worried about not having a controller in all tow vehicles. Plus I have not had many issues with surge systems as long as they are maintained. .

I am at the crossroads of rebuilding my tri-axle Hi-Tech because it is what I have to work with. Priced out maybe flipping the Hi-Tech and building a Manning but by the time I added what I wanted I was out of my range. So I ordered all new Dexter hubs with bearings. I had Kodiak Ecoated brakes on 2 axles which rusted over the winter. I wash the trailer down thoroughly after each dunk but still have issues with the light wiring always needed attention. Part of me wants to upgrade all the axles to a new higher capacity setup (3,500lb torsion tie downs currently) and run metal brake line instead of the old rubber and add brakes on all axles. I also want to go from 14" aluminum wheels with radial tires to 15" aluminum or steel with radial tires to help with the tire roll or scrub under tighter turns. Aluminum vs Steel... people say aluminum for salt water but they start looking like junk too, steels don't corrode...

I rebuild transmissions for a living so this is all basic stuff for me but what is the best to invest in? I am a firm believer a pay for what you get kind of guy but sometimes you can't justify things. Looks like a new trailer would be close to 8 grand.

I appreciate any input from ya'll.

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Knowing what I know now, go with the new trailer. Money well spent if you plan to keep the boat for while. The Manning will load and tow better than what you have as well. I used to run my Surge Brake setup with the WD hitch exactly like that. Once I upgraded tow rigs to where I didn't need the WD hitch, I realized that my WD bars WERE (negatively) affecting my braking efficacy. I speculate that you are at the max capacity for your truck. As such, the EoH brakes that I'm certain you spec'd on a new trailer will be a HUGE improvement for you if you do a lot of towing.

I couldn't agree more. I see so many really nice boats with what I'll just call "questionable" trailers under them. Folks that won't scrimp on hull construction and engine / drive parts, but then stick the cheapest trailer they can find under their new prized possession just don't make any sense to me. I'd propose that a failed trailer or trailer part can cause far more damage to a boat than almost anything you'll likely encounter out on the lake.

My father taught me a long, long time ago that "When you buy a cheap tool, all you get is a cheap tool." Same goes for trailers.

Lol that was a short discussion! Lol

Sydwayz I would in heartbeat go that route if I could but I think it is just a little out of range for me especially after buying a boat lift for the boat this season. Unless I could finance a few grand depending on what mine would sell for I do not see it happening right now.

The trailer has towed the boat down to southwest Florida from NJ safely a few times and I have another trip planned for end of November.

So say we put the new option on hold, and I was just trying to improve what I had for the time being. What would be the advice on some of the questions I posted above in wheels, tires, brakes etc.

Btw yes the truck is up there # wise but has never once been the weak link in the rig. Even when the trailer brakes stopped working the truck stopped her without making me feel uneasy. The equilizer hitch helps the comfortability going down the road and I have just grown to like the way she handles with it. Im sure a 3500HD with a diesel would feel great towing a little boat but the Sierra Denali gives me everything I need on a daily basis and can handle the chores thrown at it when the time comes. I have 10k Enclosed trailer for my 3/4 Suburban (yes I know most people have race cars, I have a show truck that I tow and store in the trailer) and the Denali tows it fine and I see the difference of how nice electric brakes work and handle.

All's well that ends well they say.

The place that did my trailer brakes back in June stood behind their work. They replaced the broken brake line, bled brakes, checked all brake calipers, locktited and retorqued, and reinstalled the brake caliper that fell off. I converted the Vanguard hybrid oil hubs to grease with bearing buddies and out the door for $150.

All is good again.

Dave

Clear out in box please, trying to send you quote on trailer. Or email me at [email protected] thanks for the PM.

I may have a bad set, I am talking to the trailer wheel supplier, but I am 99% certain it is because water is getting trapped and slowly seeping out of the center caps. There is not any impact socket damage on the wheels, the pictures are not really able to show everything.