Velocity Vector

iTrader: (4)

If it is the radiator don't buy another plastic ford radiator I bit the bullet after 2 plastic ones and got the Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, should have done it the first one. Yes the plastic ones at 40K miles and then 80K miles for me.

I also EGR delete and DPF (the exhaust filter) delete with turbo back 4" exhaust pipe, SCT programmer and remote coolant filter = 200,000 + miles now and counting. These are good motors you just have to fix a few things to turn them FORD TOUGH! I know it's ridiculous but has to be done if you want to keep it out of the shop before head gaskets and or melted pistons.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MISHIMOTO-Ra...c19be8&vxp=mtr

Dealer proofing your 6.4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9K-JkvIMHw

DON"T ADD ANY TYPE OF COOLANT STOP LEAK OR YOU WILL STOP UP THE OIL COOLER THEN YOU ARE REALLY SCREWED. Here is how the oil cooler works
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwPbMqHd6QY

seafordguy

Second dieselfiltersonline - I buy both my oil filter and my oil filter there. You need to change the fuel filter religiously. I go about every 15k on the fuel filter but I fill up at the same shell all the time and have never had anything but good fuel

You MUST buy the motor craft filter. Dieselfiltersonline has a video explaining why.

Get some coolant test strips and test your coolant every 20-30k miles

Like everyone else said. Delete the Dpf and egr and don't look back. You can extend oil change intervals from 3k to something much longer and never have to deal with that regen bull**** again.

Check powerstroke.org out. Tons of info on the radiator problems and no good solution yet. The mishimoto was promising but a lot of guys have been experiencing problems lately with the mishimoto replacements leaking (possibly a result of mounting flex)

TylerBurich

It's almost as if the 6.4's were engineered to be deleted (I know they werent). An egr delete and dpf delete will do wonders for your truck. Tuning is hit and miss depending on availability. We have been selling sct x4's with the four preloaded tunes from river city diesel with great success recently. Before that all we could get our hands on was Spartan ($2k) and h&s mini maxx unlocked ($2.5k). The tunes you get on the x4 for $800 are similar if not the same as the Spartan tuning. Good luck

JPD Motorsports

In Fort Worth area look up mad matts diesel. He left ford to go on his own after many yrs at ford.. He is very good.. Also have a guy in Argyle tx north of ft worth that I use for a lot of my diesel stuff.

Also stick with the motor craft oil filters. Had heck with an issues on a 6.0 using aftermarket filter and lid..

BUP

iTrader: (9)

I watched some of the vids, almost makes me want to go back to a gas app truck. I see how the oil cooler can be a huge problem and it looks like no air can hit the stock set up plus the cooler has really tiny internal passages.

Next the draining of water and debrie in the fuel filter module along the frame rail. I know it has another fuel filter drop in style next to the drop in oil filter on top of the motor. Both have been changed once 4 sure maybe twice max. Now that worries me about junk in the module plus almost 5 years old / 50 k miles - truck sits a lot - water in fuel possibilities in return hurts the fuel injectors. So WIX fuel filters no good for this app? why only use the Motorcraft filters ?

I have the 2010 - F350 Lariat 4x4 with the 6.4 L so does this engine have a lot of the same problems as the 6.0 L - I know the 6.0 can have a lot of problems.

What diesel fuel additives work great for the Fords diesels ? Some people have said in the past - Howes or Howels (spelling) How about MM oil ?

Motor oil - can you use 15w - 50 in these stock apps ? Thanks for all the help. Also the lowlife thieves really like these tail gates - don't ask me why but will add mine is still missing.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Basically asking about to use - 15 w - 50 Mystik super heavy duty JT syn blend CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CF / SL rated NOT SM or SN api rated. keep in mind our temps are above 60 degrees - 9 months out of the year min. Thanks

MichiMike

6.7 is the only diesel offered from Ford that isn't a problem child. The 7.3 had a good rep too.
My ol 1999 Dodge Cummins has a bad ft end... cost 5k for a good auto, but never had any issues with engine and shes turned up with sticks and box. Vp44 is stock.
Good Luck.

Velocity Vector

iTrader: (4)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]534585[/ATTACH]I use in my 2006 6.0
oil---Shell Rotella 15 W40 every 5K miles
Motorcraft oil filter every 5K miles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LZYmfvTFUU
Motorcraft fuel filters every other oil change and drain / check the water separator valve every oil change.
I do not use silicant ford anti-freeze it jells up plugging the oil cooler
I use Rotella Ultra ELC 50/50 mix
Flush the cooling system every 45K-50K miles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I5kWPd-zgg
and change the remote coolant filter at each flush.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuxMwLPOAkk

tsatrooper1

I would stick with a good synthetic 15-40. Once its deleted and the more miles you put on the truck the cleaner your oil stays. The high pressure fuel systems in the 6.4's are very sensitve. Almost all high pressure fuel system failures are due to lack of maint or contaminated fuel. Like everyone else says be spot on with your maint and good fuel. The water in fuel systems on these trucks are JUNK! A good investment is aftermarket water and fuel seperator/filter set up. Like a fass system with out the pump. They are a few like this. They are decent motors as for as longevity, but the one thing that always scares me about 6.0 and 6.4's are the lifters. They are the same in both. You can bullet proof them all day long but they are very prone to lifter failures. 6.0's seem to fail at higher mileages than the 6.4l. I have done many, MANY, engines due to lifter failures. Routine maint will extend the life but they will eventually fail. Design flaw.

seafordguy

Fuel Additives - Most people are VERY high on the Optimax XP additive. I run it, but if I get in a pinch I buy a bottle of Diesel Kleen since it is readily avaialble.

Also - I never recommend going in Walmart, but I do walk in the back door and buy my Oil there. They stock Rotella T6 in the 15-40 that the truck calls for. I would venture to say 9 out of 10 guys on powerstroke.org run that.

The Fuel Filter is a pain in the ass, but I wouldn't skip it. They call it "the diesel bath" for a reason - because you get SOAKED in diesel getting that damn thing off. I can't common on the WIX filters, but if you just go on dieselfiltersonline they will just package the fuel and oil filters together (motorcraft) shipped to your door in a couple days. it's a no brainer.

The 6.4 is relatively bullet proof. The horror stories are radiators, bad fuel/water causing the lift pumps to go out (which is a cab OFF affair), and people people putting TONS of power to them and stretching head bolts. On the latter point though most tuners (H&S, SPARTAN, etc...) make tunes out of the box that add 300HP. That means that you can go from 350hp to 650hp and 1200 foot/lbs in about 20 minutes of your time. A lot of dumbasses can't handle that responsibility so some horror stories exist on that front.

The other VERY bad design is the regen cycle which basically dumps fuel in the cylinders on the exhaust stroke so that it flows back to the DPF, ignites and burns off the soot. This raw fuel covers the cylinder walls, makes its way into the crankcase and dilutes the oil. Once you delete this concern goes away.