Towing with D or XL rated tires
#1
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Im looking to upgrade the wheels on my 03 2wd Chevy dually to the 20" Eagle Alloy dually wheels. Im having trouble finding any tire in a "E" load range for my size. Looking for a lower profile look so im trying to stay as close as possible to the stock diameter tire. Ive found several sets in the "D" or "XL" load range that should work out. Anyone have any thoughts on this? The truck sees limited towing outside of my 288 Sunsation and a 30ft tag along camper, about 5-7k miles per year total. May be upgrading to a larger boat in a few years but wouldn't really be getting into anything longer that 33-35ft. Anyone else tow with these tires?
#2

I would by no means put a D rated tire on a dually or for towing duty. I had back to back D rated and then E rated tires on my 3/4 ton years ago; towing 12,000 lbs, and the difference was VERY noticeable.
What size are you looking for? Is price part of the issue?
You won't feel much of a difference. going up in diameter just a hair, and tire diameter for speedo correction is pretty easy with a tuner or have the dealer do it for around $100.
What size are you looking for? Is price part of the issue?
You won't feel much of a difference. going up in diameter just a hair, and tire diameter for speedo correction is pretty easy with a tuner or have the dealer do it for around $100.
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Appearance/load limits are my main concern. Ive had my fair share of blowouts and ill handling tires so hence the question. I was looking for something around the 275/55/20 size, looking for more of a shorter sidewall/bigger wheel look. Its a 2wd truck that's been lowered 3/5 inches so it rarely leaves the pavement.
#4

"XL" load rating is a new one on me, so I did a little digging. Service Descriptions on www.coopertire.com in the 1-teens worries me a bit. 1-twenties and above is what I look for in an LT tire for towing.
Can you run/fit one of these?
http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light...ERER-A-T3.aspx
Can you run/fit one of these?
http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light...ERER-A-T3.aspx
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Hankook ATM has a LT 285/55/20 - 32.4" - 2600# dual
That should be plenty for the load you are talking about placing on it.
ATM has an aggressive sidewall for looks. Plenty of snow/offroad capability that is sounds like you wont use anyway.
It is just slightly taller than a 275 but LT rated sidewall. You will not have high load capacity with such extremely short side walls regardless.
Width is a bigger problem.
Your wheel wells were not intended to have large, wide tires stuffed underneath them. Changes will have to be made to allow for full steering range which I would say is a requirement for towing. You will probably need to look at wheels with a greater offset which creates its own set of problems sticking out further that will require fender extensions or risk the look and road damage of tires sticking out.
Another option is a "fender mod". There are a couple threads on Dieselplace.com forum detailing. Warning, this does involve cutting and bending metal in the inner fender well. Not difficult but my body shop recommended against it due the likely hood of future rust at the modification site. Since its in the firewall vs fender it would be costly to repair when rusted.
KY may not use as much salt on the road so it may not be as big of deal. Also, if you don't value your truck for the long term, go for it. There is always a balance between form and function.
That should be plenty for the load you are talking about placing on it.
ATM has an aggressive sidewall for looks. Plenty of snow/offroad capability that is sounds like you wont use anyway.
It is just slightly taller than a 275 but LT rated sidewall. You will not have high load capacity with such extremely short side walls regardless.
Width is a bigger problem.
Your wheel wells were not intended to have large, wide tires stuffed underneath them. Changes will have to be made to allow for full steering range which I would say is a requirement for towing. You will probably need to look at wheels with a greater offset which creates its own set of problems sticking out further that will require fender extensions or risk the look and road damage of tires sticking out.
Another option is a "fender mod". There are a couple threads on Dieselplace.com forum detailing. Warning, this does involve cutting and bending metal in the inner fender well. Not difficult but my body shop recommended against it due the likely hood of future rust at the modification site. Since its in the firewall vs fender it would be costly to repair when rusted.
KY may not use as much salt on the road so it may not be as big of deal. Also, if you don't value your truck for the long term, go for it. There is always a balance between form and function.
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I've recently seriously considered this too, on my 08 3500. But I'm just not seeing the functional value vs appearance value. I can't stand the stock wheels - they are too small for the fender wells. But lowering is not a good idea, raising seems to cause premature failure of various components, and I'm afraid of larger tires throwing stones, debris at my hull.
I'm thinking I will just save the $5~$6 grand that it will cost in wheels/tires/other and drive it as-is. I'm not satisfied, but I'd rather have piece of mind when it comes to boating.
I'm thinking I will just save the $5~$6 grand that it will cost in wheels/tires/other and drive it as-is. I'm not satisfied, but I'd rather have piece of mind when it comes to boating.
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I've recently seriously considered this too, on my 08 3500. But I'm just not seeing the functional value vs appearance value. I can't stand the stock wheels - they are too small for the fender wells. But lowering is not a good idea, raising seems to cause premature failure of various components, and I'm afraid of larger tires throwing stones, debris at my hull.
I'm thinking I will just save the $5~$6 grand that it will cost in wheels/tires/other and drive it as-is. I'm not satisfied, but I'd rather have piece of mind when it comes to boating.
I'm thinking I will just save the $5~$6 grand that it will cost in wheels/tires/other and drive it as-is. I'm not satisfied, but I'd rather have piece of mind when it comes to boating.
Add to that the penalties of more expensive tires, reduced mpg and retuning my ECM (already tow tuned, but would have to be sent in for tire changes).
It all was not worth it for the slight penis extension.
The op's desire for larger rims takes the cost and compromise further with even greater rim and tire costs plus the compromise of a low side wall from curb rash and capacity ratings.
From NorCal's listing, IMO; the minimum is stage 5 with stage 7 being ideal to minimize trouble down the road.
http://norcaltruck.com/index.php/com...arent,18/pg,1/
I opted for no size change. I did add the pitman/idler braces and tie rod sleeves which I feel has kept my steering tight over the past 100k.
Also, the bilstein 5100's were an amazing improvement over the crappy stock shocks that were done at 30k.