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Evo Trailers or Evolution Trailers... any experience?
Never heard of them, but their trailer under this new NorTech CC looks great.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Evolu...47471161975299 https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...3d&oe=562E1FE6 https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...0e&oe=563463FE Website is a little outdated. http://evolutiontrailer.com/ It looks a lot like the welded alumium C-channel offerings from Myco and Manning. For a while, I was impressed by McClain Trailers out of Texas when they started building a C-channel aluminum trailer... ...BUT over time I have seen those products fail (lots of cracked welds). compared to Myco and Manning. I'm curious how they hold up over time. |
I believe NASCAT put an EVO under his new 34' Nortech. Looks really nice and he is a stickler for details so I'm sure he researched them thoroughly.
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I own one, impressive workmanship, quality, customer service and professionalism. I posted many detail pictures of my trailer in my Cat to Console thread. Towards the end, maybe last 6-8 pages.
Feel free to PM me your # if you'd like to chat in more detail about Evo trailers. Michael |
Originally Posted by NASCAT
(Post 4318687)
I own one, impressive workmanship, quality, customer service and professionalism. I posted many detail pictures of my trailer in my Cat to Console thread. Towards the end, maybe last 6-8 pages.
Feel free to PM me your # if you'd like to chat in more detail about Evo trailers. Michael Wow! Just... WOW!! That trailer is spectacular. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...future-13.html The ONLY thing I would do different... ...is have the EoH and electronics connections boxes mounted higher, WAY higher; at least 12" above the trailer rails. I don't care how long the trailer is, at some point, they are bound to get wet at some shltty ramp. I see several things better than the others mentioned on this thread. Couple questions: (1) Why the hybrid bunk approach; and why in that order? I'd think for power loading, (if one is into that kind of thing) the poly bunks would be better for the boat sliding up; and for when the boat settles onto the trailer, the carpeted bunks at the back would be better for friction to hold keep the boat planted. I caveat upfront with "I'd think" as I don't build trailers for a living. (I wouldn't mind that gig though.) (2) I see two different configurations or materials for the V-bunk at the bow. At one point, it's the typical poly/rubber truck loading dock stops (grey) that we see on the higher end trailers; and in another picture, I see something yellow. Which one is the final, and why? (3) What is the winch material? Is that some type of military spec cord? Any idea where other commoners can source it? |
1) I wanted ALL UHMW bunks but there are 2 issues, a) VERY, VERY slippery so concerned about boat movement on the trailer launching, retrieving & in panic stop situations. The combination of both provides a little more resistance but in reality b) the other reason being that the forward keel bunks need to fit the contour of the hull properly which means they needed to twist. Since the UHMW is affixed to aluminum there is no real good way to bend & twist the aluminum structure to the contour of the hull to get the correct fit.
2) the Evo trailer comes w/ the gray rubber stops what you see are soft microfiber mop heads I Tywrapped to the bow stops to prevent the rubber from making a mark on the hull. At my local Lowe's that was the only color / style available. Totally my doing in an effort to avoid getting the typical bow stop mark on my hull. 3) I had never seen a winch w/ a rope before certainly not on a trailer for a boat this size & weight (normally a strap or cable) Carston of Evolution trailers told me it was rated for 6,000 lbs I believe. I have no clue where to source it but I'm sure if you google search it you can find it or just contact him at Evo Trailers. [email protected] Yes I'm sure he'd love to sell you a trailer but I also believe he wouldn't mind answering any other questions you might have as well as share his winch rope source. If you read my thread you already know that Evo got its start building trailers for our military & to this day are still fulfilling military contracts. |
Thank you for the details!
Here's a tip I use for keeping the marks from the V-bunk to a minimum: Just before you load the boat, spray the V-bunks down with Spray Wax. This has been my favorite for a few years; although I've heard the products are under a new label now: http://www.liquidperformance.com/mar...leaner-polish/ I prefer the aerosol type, but for any fern-licking/tree-hugging types on the board, the spray bottle works fine too. (I use Meguier's Quik Wax Spray on other applications.) After you load the boat, the only thing that gets on the hull is wax. You just remove it with a small polishing towel. |
Great tip, at the bare minimum I submerge all bunks prior to loading to at least get them wet.
Does the wax smoke when sprayed on 100* black carpet?? :daz: |
Originally Posted by NASCAT
(Post 4318811)
Great tip, at the bare minimum I submerge all bunks prior to loading to at least get them wet.
Does the wax smoke when sprayed on 100* black carpet?? :daz: |
Gotcha, I misunderstood, you meant the bow stop!
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Yep, bow stop! I was looking for that last night, and think I killed off that brain cell.
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I've been searching for a better ride quality / towing performance from my Evo trailer. I have spent a good amount of time experimenting w/ the ball height & tongue weight .In the end it appears that the Goodyear Marathon tires although rated for the capacity of my boat / trailer combo are the weak link. I experienced lots of sidewall crush & flex w/ the Marathons but since upgrading to Goodyear GS614 RST's I don't think I'll own another trailer without them. They aren't LT tires but purpose built trailer tires. Ride quality is superior as is the quality & construction of the tire. 14ply trailer tire that closely resembles you'd find on an 18 wheeler trailer. Zero sidewall crush & the tires don't look like they are about to dismount when I make a u-turn in my storage facility lot. 110 psi!!
Unless you damage the sidewall of one of these tires I don't believe you'll live or own the boat long enough to see them replaced from wear. Many thanks to Rod & Paul at Evolution Trailers for helping me work thru the swap out & providing me tires at their cost so as to make the upgrade as painless as possible. They even provided me w/ an avenue to sell off my 2000 mile Marathon take offs. 1st Class Operation. http://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/ti...rodline=160007 |
^^ Great info, but are they really $300-400 per tire?!?!?!?
They better outlast ME for that price!! |
I went with cooper srm 2 trailer tires, much harder sidewall and I balanced them. Ive had them for 4 years and great except for flat spots where the comp on my brake rite took a crap and did a 6 wheel lock up. I'm going to replace them in the spring and wont balance with weights but will use equal of beads to let them self balance. Ive loved them and will never use a non trailer tire again. LT's are for trucks, not weight and tight cornering.
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My best price locally was like $340/ tire but Evo got them for me for around $290.
Ultimately the GS 614's are approx twice as much as Marathon's ($135-$160). Take it from me when I tell you that it will only take 1 tire related trailering incident to get you to realize cheaper isn't better for numerous reasons. |
Originally Posted by NASCAT
(Post 4357559)
. Take it from me when I tell you that it will only take 1 tire related trailering incident to get you to realize cheaper isn't better for numerous reasons.
But that PRICE though. I think they are more expensive than my Corvette tires. I am running LT Goodyear E-rated (10-ply) tires on my trailer with no complaints yet. |
I think it's also package dependent, tandem or tri-axle, boat size & weight, overall combined weight, how often you tow & how far as well as ones budget. If one has found a combination that works for them why change. I called Myco & Skater both to see what they equip their trailers with. One was a BFG, the other Firestone but neither were intended for trailering. I was surprised since there's liability involved.
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Originally Posted by NASCAT
(Post 4357653)
I think it's also package dependent, tandem or tri-axle, boat size & weight, overall combined weight, how often you tow & how far as well as ones budget. If one has found a combination that works for them why change. I called Myco & Skater both to see what they equip their trailers with. One was a BFG, the other Firestone but neither were intended for trailering. I was surprised since there's liability involved.
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I've yet to find anyone willing to patch or put a tube in my 2000mi Marathon but I've not lost hope. Figured it would make a good 2nd spare.:party-smiley-004:
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Originally Posted by NASCAT
(Post 4358357)
I've yet to find anyone willing to patch or put a tube in my 2000mi Marathon but I've not lost hope. Figured it would make a good 2nd spare.:party-smiley-004:
Have you tried Gorilla Glue ? LOL. |
I don' think they offer it in a 1 gal size that would be required!
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duct tape!... i just lost a rim and a new tire... all the studs broke off clean...
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Here is the stuff to use for winch rope. Strong as can be, has zero stretch, and all different colors Lasts forever too.
http://www.masterpull.com |
Originally Posted by wfo1
(Post 4358496)
Here is the stuff to use for winch rope. Strong as can be, has zero stretch, and all different colors Lasts forever too.
http://www.masterpull.com |
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A few pics of some other Evolution trailers. Looks like they are starting to branch out into the market offering trailers for different size and style boats.
I see trailers under Nor-tech's Contenders and what I believe is a Spectre 32 Cat trailer. Not pictured but I know they also built an Aluminum 5th wheel trailer for the new 45' Nor-Tech CC. |
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