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Old 06-29-2015 | 09:59 PM
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Surge brake pressures are much lower than EoH, only 400-600psi if memory serves.

Edit- a quick Google search has one site putting surge pressures at 400-800psi, another puts them at 700psi in "panic stop" situations.

EoH has up to 1600psi actuators.

Last edited by Speedracer29; 06-29-2015 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 06-29-2015 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by shunter2005
Surely, you don't have to replace the actuator housing if you switch from drum to disc, do you???
Think I found the answer to my question.

Champion Trailer states in their disc brake install instructions that you can use your existing coupler, but it will need modifications.
First, they say that you should never puncture the residual valve in the master cylinder. It needs to be removed completely for higher flow (assuming you want to use your drum master cylinder and not buy a disc master cylinder).
Second, the brass tubing adapter at the rear of the master cylinder should have a minimum orifice diameter of .0625” or larger.
Third, a reverse solenoid lock out valve will normally be required.

Pretty simple mods to make the conversion.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 08:23 AM
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I like my electric brakes. No brake lines to rust or leak, no expensive EOH actuator. Fully adjustable stopping, cheap parts. Simple to fix/replace.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 08:31 AM
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With either all electric or EOH, just having those trailer brakes when backing down a steep ramp is worth it's weight in gold. No more dragging those front truck tires.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
I like my electric brakes. No brake lines to rust or leak, no expensive EOH actuator. Fully adjustable stopping, cheap parts. Simple to fix/replace.
I am ordering the stuff to convert my Eagle trailer over to full electric. I hate surge brakes with a passion and my whole system is shot. I like the adjust-ability and better response of the electrics. Plus I get to get rid of the dang "clunk" every time I start or stop. Plus I get to go to a coupler that just drops on and hooks up, no little lever to hold up, no having to jerk the boat forwards after backing into the garage so coupler will release.

I see no downside to this conversion.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 09:51 AM
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Well, looks like the thing to do is convert my hitch over to a disc master cylinder, pick up a reverse solenoid, and carry on about my day. Champion had the disc master cylinder.

I ended up buying my Kodiak disc setup through a local Redneck Trailer distributor. It was actually really cheap.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 10:49 AM
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Be sure to buy the deluxe reversing solenoid. It's only a few bucks more. It relieves all brake line pressure when energized, whereas the standard reversing solenoid will trap brake line pressure. If you stop on a down hill incline and need to backup, the trailer brakes will be applied and will not bleed off when you go into reverse with the standard model and you'll have to figure out how to disengage the trailer brakes just to back up. The deluxe model eliminates all that.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 01:45 PM
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Excellent info. Thanks
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Old 06-30-2015 | 04:48 PM
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Received a confirmation from etrailer.com that my order has been processed and will be shipped within 7 days. That would have been nice to know. Guess I'm going to the lake with no brakes. lol
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Old 07-21-2015 | 12:47 PM
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Just a quick update to anyone that may search this thread on down the road... I installed the Kodiak disc set up, which was an absolute breeze. I was even able to bend my current brake lines to go straight to the caliper. I did install Kodiak Red-Eye bearing greasers, and I will say that while they stay cleaner, I prefer the bearing buddy brand. These stick out too far, and I'm not confident about how much grease is in them, no to mention they are such a tight tolerance, I'm not sure I will be able to get them back out without destroying them to check the preload on the bearings either. As for the disc brake master cylinder, I haven't swapped that out yet, so I have the hitch locked and have pulled it to the lake twice with no brakes. I will re-update after I finish the job. For the reverse solenoid, I'm thinking I will put it on with a switch instead of tying it into my reverse lights. Since I bought the cheaper solenoid (already ordered before I found out what the difference is) I think it would be better to hit the switch before I have any pressure on the brakes in case I get in a position where I have to put it in reverse after I already have some pressure in the lines. All in all, I think I will end up having around 750ish in the disc brake kit, bearing buddies, bearings/seals, master cylinder kit, and solenoid. If I don't ever have to fool with another drum brake on this trailer, its worth every penny. .
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