class6

I get 50000 miles before I pull bearings to check them, never had a problem and you can do a walk by to check. sight glass is handy. these are on all my construction trailers. I'm really think now about the boat trailer. and once grease gets a little hard or at speed for a long run, it get flung away from the bearing. I think the crappier grease that has a low temp is better for wheel bearings

iliveonanisland

Use astro glide instead of oil... besides now you will always have some handy when the skanks show up...

I have always used bearing buddys with great success

CLA

I've had them on the last two trailers. I really like them. I run the double seals on the back side.

36Tango

Last year I towed a Ranger center console from Iowa to Florida. In Missouri and then again in Kentucky, I lost a bearing, and in turn it took out the spindle. I had one full set on hand, but was not prepared for the second. The problem was the surge brakes not working correctly, building up heat, and blowing a seal. Once a seal goes, catastrophe is not far behind. I always check for heat at every single stop when I trailer and I feel that I would have found the problem before ending up on the side of the road. In my opinion, packed bearings with bearing buddies are the way to go.

W900

I converted a couple of my skid steer trailers to oil bath bearings. They are always heavy and I have had no problems at all. As soon as I get some time I will convert the boat trailer. The best thing you can do is use the Lucas hub oil. The bearings run much cooler after that.

wfo1

I run a trailer manufacturing facility and we use oil bath hubs but pack them in grease. The oil bath hubs have the better seals, but we have had nothing but bad luck with actually using oil in them. The idea is great but I have seen many trailers come in with an oil cap or fill plug missing. With grease it's no big deal, if they had oil they would be replacing parts on the side of the road.

twinscrews

Myco is now using a system similar to this on all their trailers.

BIGSLOW

I like these but from what I have heard and gathered, you cannot convert to these unless you want to put new spindles and hubs on. It comes as a spindle and hub assembly from vault that is then welded onto an axle. My replacement axle last year had them from Heritage trailers. I was told they would last about 10 years then you can either do new axles, weld a new sealed assembly from vault onto your axle, or just convert to regular seals and bearing buddies. Certainly makes it easier on axle manufactures.

offshorexcursion

iTrader: (5)

Everything sucks.....I wish there was a better way

Doesn't matter how anal you are, NOTHING will stop the rear seal from wearing out and losing grease or oil before you get to your next stop to check them.

Nothing will prevent chinese bearings from pitting and coming apart

Vault have prematurely failed on the 43 Checkmate Punisher trailer but they did wrnty them, still a pain

Best practice is to replace seals, bearings, and repack or change oil often

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Over the years, a handful or two folks have come on here and said they like the switch they've made to Oil Bath hubs. But the rest of the communities are running grease for the most part.

I run the oil bath seals (which Myco sets their new trailers up with) as well as Timken bearings, and ONLY the same grease. Don't mix grease types or manufacturers. I usually buy a box full of tubes and keep a couple in the trailer toolbox, with the grease gun that goes with me on trips.

Keep an eye on temps, every stop when towing.with a Laser Temp Gun.

Looking at the temp graph chart on the Vault website, 25* difference isn't that big a deal IMHO. I can see as much as 15-20* difference side to side across hubs/tires/brakes on the same trailer pending which side is getting beat down with direct sunlight