What is the deal with crap tires? (MFG date code of 13)
07-13-2016, 08:26 AM
#21
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Yup. I always air down a bit when towing in hot temps to compensate for the increase in pressure while towing.
07-13-2016, 09:30 AM
#23
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G-rated Trailer Tires were discussed on another thread recently. My concern with them is I don't believe our 5200 -8000 lbs. axles and the like are designed to carry that kind of rotating mass. If you hit a bump at speed with that kind of weight; I feel as though springs (both torsion & leaf) could be at risk.
07-13-2016, 10:05 AM
#24
Is it really much different than switching between aluminum and steel wheels? In my research, it appears as though lots of guys with 5th wheels upgrade to these same tires and don't have issues. I will report back with empirical data from my trailer...I've been rolling the miles on lately.
While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
07-13-2016, 12:46 PM
#25
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196
For the reasons indicated above, It is also normal to experience "hot" tire pressures that are up to 5 to 6 psi above the tire's recommended "cold" pressure during the day if the vehicle is parked in the sun or has been extensively driven. Therefore, if the vehicle's recommended "cold" inflation pressures correspond with the tire's maximum inflation pressure, it will often appear that too much tire pressure is present. However, this extra "hot" tire pressure is temporary and should NOT be bled off to return the tire pressure to within the maximum inflation pressure value branded on the tire. If the "cold" tire pressure was correctly set initially, the temporary "hot" tire pressure will have returned to the tire's maximum inflation pressure when next measured in "cold" conditions.
07-13-2016, 01:08 PM
#26
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Is it really much different than switching between aluminum and steel wheels? In my research, it appears as though lots of guys with 5th wheels upgrade to these same tires and don't have issues. I will report back with empirical data from my trailer...I've been rolling the miles on lately.
While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
07-13-2016, 01:16 PM
#27
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It seems counter-intuitive, but dropping the pressure could actually be causing the tires to heat up more. The more the sidewall and tread flexes, the more heat is generated, the more the pressure increases.
I personally run mine at 90 psi, even though the max load (cold...lol) is at 110 psi, because the trailer rides smoother, and I don't need the full 3748 lb/tire load rating.
At the end of the day, do whatever works for you.
I personally run mine at 90 psi, even though the max load (cold...lol) is at 110 psi, because the trailer rides smoother, and I don't need the full 3748 lb/tire load rating.
At the end of the day, do whatever works for you.
07-13-2016, 01:18 PM
#28
No, I'm not speculating. I worked at a couple different tire shops in college, so I have some hands-on experience in this realm.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196
07-15-2016, 09:52 AM
#29
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Ok, the real deal is, these tires being sold now days made in some 3rd world don't give a crap country are mostly crap !!! 1/2 of them you never heard of the name and the one's you have got from the same crapholes the others come from. trailer tires have little to no safety checks, so in the new world of cheap we got crap...
07-15-2016, 11:37 AM
#30
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1 of my Power King Towmax trailer tires lost its tread on the highway last weekend during a long haul. Another 3 were ballooning up so much the diameter had increased by 4". I put about 5K miles on them and they looked absolutely fine when I left. The date code on them was from 2012. I find it interesting how they decided to fail at the same time. Just mounted 8 new Firestone Transforce HT's so I can roll on with confidence.
Last edited by Plum_Crazy; 07-15-2016 at 11:53 AM.
