Glad the frame checked out good! I thought warranty work had changed and any dealer can do the work and collect the warranty payment? Would there be any reason to read more into them not wanting to get involved? I've had my Ford to different dealerships for warranty work...

I worked as a service advisor at a JCDR dealer for a few years, bought my '15 Ram new, it has 48k on it now. It has drifted right since day one, and honestly most of them do. Tech support was never able to explain why, I've left it the way it is and I haven't had any type of tire wear issues. Bed wise, getting Mopar to do body repairs is like pulling teeth, especially if its more than repainting a section or replacing trim/moldings. Usually common issues like the rusting and peeling wrangler door hinges, or fender flares coming off of the 2500/3500's get processed quickly. I have a paint blemish on the hood of my truck, took about a month to get it approved, but I ended up not having it fixed because the dealership I worked at didn't have the highest quality body shop. Most dealers are going to refer you to the selling dealer for things like that because they are supposed to document things like that during the PDI process and if they didn't it falls back on them. Regular mechanical warranty work, usually any dealer will handle it. If you really don't want to go back to the selling dealer, find out who the district parts and service manger is and get in touch with him/her and they will usually contact the dealer you want to have work on it and let you know who to get in contact with.

I have a 16 2500 power wagon,Had the same slite pull to the low side of the road witch is normal as said from crown in the road,If you want it to go away as i did buy a Carli suspension Low Mount Stabilizer part #CS-DLMSS-14.it's nitrogen charged,mounts in the stock location and you truck will never pull to the right again!

Had a full Carli suspension system on my last ram and loved it. I'll eventually do some mods on this one as well. Its a budget issue.

Yes, any dealer can do the work and that is why I took the truck to a local dealer, who is less than 15 minute drive from home. They were very helpfull in trying to diagnose all the problems or potential problems. The shop manager there said that they could do the process with Chrysler but referred me to the selling dealer because, according to the local manager, the issue would get resolved quicker. He said that it typically takes a little longer if you go through another dealer , not the seller, due to shipping documentation and such... But, even the guy at the selling dealer said I can have any future work done at a location of my choosing.

I am aware of the normal drift. All vehicles are designed to slowly drift right for safety reasons. Also all roads are made with a slight crown for water runoff. This is something a little more. The Shop manager at the selling dealer said that he knows of this as a problem on some of the 2500 series trucks and that they can get it to go straight. As for the bed, I just want to be able to close the tailgate with a lack of a gap. Or without slamming the driver's side shut to eliminate the gap, however there is a pop sound when opening due to the gate being under pressure.

Why I purchased the truck an hours drive away? It was on their lot. I was looking specifically for a Mega Cab. Most dealers do not have them sitting on the lot unlike a traditional crew cab. This dealer happened to have a mega cab on their lot, in a color we liked with a trim line we were happy with for the right price range. Still took a little haggling to get the price a little better. If ordering a new one from the factory I definitely would have gone with a local dealer. I also do not have a normal salesperson to go through in order to have the truck shipped from dealer to dealer. Even my last car, Dodge Challenger, was purchased at a dealer near this one. My last truck, purchase used, was at a dealer in Ohio. I'm willing to travel to get something that fits my needs.

Bought my last truck from a dealer in SC and had it shipped in. Cost a lot less then buying locally even with the shipping

Not a dodge guy, but pretty sure they are strait front axle w/ 4x4 correct ? did suspension and front end work for many years for ford, when doing a alignment you want 1/4 deg more camber in the driver side, 1/2 degree more + caster in the pass side, this is to for the road crown. Now strait axles usually dont have a great deal of adjustability in them which is a huge downfall when comes to getting the alignment dialed in, and then finding someone anymore who knows how to do anything other than follow the cute high tech computer screen thats there to impress the customer and make a masterlubercolligist a front end tech...so good luck and keep us posted

I purchased a 2013 Dodge 2500 Tradesmen, turbo diesel. Pulled to the right, took it back to dealer, they did the alinement. Still pulled to the right, they did the alinement again, then again. Finally the service manager told me, "this is just the way the trucks are, it's always going to pull to the right a little." I have tried tires, other alinement shops, and a leveling kit. Truck still pulls to the right...