EOH Brake Conversion Kits
08-01-2017 | 04:53 PM
#12
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Newburgh, IN/Freeport, FL
So for those of you that have made the conversion how are you getting rid of the portion of the trailer coupler that moves to operate the surge brake set? My trailer is a Manning don't know if I can but a solid coupler to replace the existing one or just drill the holes and bolt it so it doesn't move as someone explained on another thread.
08-01-2017 | 05:59 PM
#13
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I went with the HydraStar 1600 psi, should have done it sooner! I read a lot of articles and people with multiple trailers have said hydrastar is faster to respond, and it fit nicely on my frame rail. I called a guy at the factory and he said not to worry about submerging it during launching either.
CTS Marine Hydrastar? 1600 PSI Electric/Hydraulic Actuator #MHBA-16
CTS Marine Hydrastar? 1600 PSI Electric/Hydraulic Actuator #MHBA-16
08-01-2017 | 06:06 PM
#14
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You want to get something like a prodigy brake controller. You can set the braking force for the trailer load. There is an enertia switch that senses hard braking and applies more pressure. You can manually apply just trailer brakes
08-02-2017 | 07:23 AM
#15
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From: Canyon Lake/ Houston, TX
Just finished troubleshooting my Tiatan Brakerite system. Works great when running properly. Could not narrow down the problem to one single item, so replaced everything from fuses, relays, all the Brakerite components and Trailer Wire harness rebuild on trailer. Works great again, well worth the investment. I use a Prodigy 3, which is a proportional / inertia system and when moving provides great great braking response. You will be happy with whatever system you purchase. Titan Brakerite is now owned by Dexter. I spoke with both Tech depts of Dexter and Prodigy, great help from both companies. I have the Dexter tech number if anybody is in need of help. I now know the Prodigy 3 system very well also, the unit has a great troubleshooting mode built in, verified everything voltmeter was saying at the 7 pin Truck plug. You will only get up to 4 volts on the blue wire while in park.
08-02-2017 | 07:25 AM
#16
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From: Canyon Lake/ Houston, TX
So for those of you that have made the conversion how are you getting rid of the portion of the trailer coupler that moves to operate the surge brake set? My trailer is a Manning don't know if I can but a solid coupler to replace the existing one or just drill the holes and bolt it so it doesn't move as someone explained on another thread.
08-02-2017 | 07:43 AM
#17
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,169
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From: Henderson, KY
On my last trailer, I removed the surge master cylinder and related components from the surge housing. Drilled and added three - 3/4" (I think) grade 8 bolts (with locktite) through surge housing and coupler. Then added EOH components. It worked great. I also added a rubber anti-slip strip (adhesive backed, stair tred type) to cover the holes in the top (see picture) sourced from Lowes.
If you go that route, get you some good drill bits!
fr
If you go that route, get you some good drill bits!
fr
So for those of you that have made the conversion how are you getting rid of the portion of the trailer coupler that moves to operate the surge brake set? My trailer is a Manning don't know if I can but a solid coupler to replace the existing one or just drill the holes and bolt it so it doesn't move as someone explained on another thread.
