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EOH Brake

Old 02-27-2020, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Padraig View Post
Thanks everyone!
Sydwaz, any good suggestions to raise the mounting height?
I will likely buy a new Coupler rather then weld up the existing one. Might as go all new and never really liked the latching mechanism on the one I have now. Any suggestions. looking at bolt on.
I see that E trailer sells a complete kit with junction box, break away etc. Is that a good way to go vs piecemeal?

Padraig

Just fab up a quick piece of aluminum tube, and mount that to the trailer. Then mount the actuator on top of that.
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:05 PM
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I have used all of the major EOH systems and found the Hydrastar unit to be the best! I haul boats all over the USA, over 50K miles on one trailer alone with a Hydrastar and have never had any issues.

If for NO OTHER REASON... if you are backing a boat down the ramp, with an EOH you have FULL CONTROL of the trailer and do not need to lock up the truck's brakes taking any chances of it beginning a slide into the water.

I saw another post suggesting the Dexter is waterproof and this is simply not true. Water will go right into the poor cap design and if you own one, do yourself a favor and order a second cap. Also buy a small buddy bearing bra and zip-tie the Dexter cap to the EOH to keep it from coming loose.

Here are a few install pics:


Hydrastar unit installed on a Myco trailer for my 43' Scarab AVS


Dexter EOH on a Manning Trailer for a 43' Black Thunder

Note, all ground wires are outside the box for easy cleaning and to keep the wires inside box separate.


Another Hydrastar unit on a Myco trailer carrying a 38' Contender

Used trailer bunk brackets for mounting the battery and electrical distribution box.
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Old 02-29-2020, 08:39 AM
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Thanks everyone. Lots of great suggestions!
As I will be getting a new coupler, any suggestions on a couple? My wife hates fighting with the latch on the one we have.....so one that latches and unlatches easily would be good.

Padraig
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Old 02-29-2020, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Padraig View Post
Thanks everyone. Lots of great suggestions!
As I will be getting a new coupler, any suggestions on a couple? My wife hates fighting with the latch on the one we have.....so one that latches and unlatches easily would be good.

Padraig
This is the one I use on every trailer I build. It has a spring loaded catch that locks down on the ball until you physically pull it away and hold it back under pressure to raise the trailer from the towing vehicle.

https://www.easternmarine.com/3-chan...-coupler-91562
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Old 02-29-2020, 04:16 PM
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What size ball you want to use? UFP has a very easy latch system. For 2" here is a solid coupler. You can get it in bolt on and weld on. You can find them all over. I just used this place as an example.
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/coll...-bolt-on-34318

2 5/16" gets a 20K coupler. Also in bolt on and weld on. With bolt on, you also will need an adjustable channel mount bracket that has to be welded onto the tongue and bolt coupler onto it. What I used for mine. Overkill for my boat? Yes. However, I love the coupler. It is very easy to open and close.
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/coll...-bolt-on-40563
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Padraig View Post
I have a Velocity VR 1 on a Ameratrail tandem aluminum trailer. The trailer has disc brakes on both axles. The boat hauls well and stops ok. However after reading many posts about surge vs EOH I think I would like to upgrade. My tow vehicle is a 2013 Yukon XL (Suburban) with the tow package. It does not have a brake controller but I understand it is just a matter of plugging one in.

All that being said, how difficult a job is this? What brands and models do you like? Are there any to stay away from? Are all controllers pretty much the same and do some work better with GM vehicles?

Thanks,

Padraig
Well I was going to do this last year but the China Flu restrictions interfered. Getting ready to order parts...Anything new and improved on the market or any new advise?

Padraig

Last edited by Padraig; 03-22-2021 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 03-22-2021, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Padraig View Post
Well I was going to do this last year but the China Flu restrictions interfered. Getting ready to order parts...Anything new and improved on the market or any new advise?

Padraig
I used a Hydrastar when I did mine, make sure to get the electronic adapter so any brake controller will work.

I cut out the old master cylinder and and used the space for the new one.

I covered the unit with an aluminum cover to protect it.

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Old 03-22-2021, 06:29 PM
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I made a bracket to keep mine above water , my only issue was was fitting the caliper bolts between the frame and the caliper .. I had to cut them shorter.





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Old 03-31-2021, 09:05 PM
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Thanks for all the replys! I have decided on the Titan plug and play from Etrailer. Looking at controllers I noticed this wireless one. Curt Echo Wireless Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 2 Axles - Proportional Curt Trailer Brake Controller C51180 (etrailer.com)
Anyone using it or have any thoughts about it pro or con?
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Old 04-01-2021, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Padraig View Post
Thanks for all the replys! I have decided on the Titan plug and play from Etrailer. Looking at controllers I noticed this wireless one. Curt Echo Wireless Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 2 Axles - Proportional Curt Trailer Brake Controller C51180 (etrailer.com)
Anyone using it or have any thoughts about it pro or con?
Padraig
GF uses a wireless one for her vintage camping trailers, and because she drives a VW Touareg diesel with no provisioning for an electric brake controller.
That is NOT the one she is using. However, I think they are absolute junk. She has problems with the controller and handheld devices losing their pairing. And there are so many (non-)moving parts that it's a PITFA to troubleshoot.
It doesn't help that she doesn't test her shlt before she takes off for a trip, and I'm out there in my pajamas trying to fix it before my coffee either.

Your truck should have the wiring from under the dash to the trailer hitch plug. There is no reason NOT to use that, with a simpler and more reliable input.
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