Trailer Components Recomendations
 

Some old lady t-boned my trailer, totaled it. I hunted around for trailers here in southern California, market is a joke. I almost imported a trailer from Florida but after looking into aluminum I beam trailers I decided that I'm going to build my own. It's going to be a 10.5K GW trailer, torsion axels, aluminum disc brakes. I'm wondering if I can get some input from guys with nice trailers on the make\model of axels, calipers, etc. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a hydraulic 12in disc setup, I think I want stainless calipers but I don't think I want stainless rotors. If anyone has experience with particular types or brands or recommendations I'd appreciate it. Boat weight 8K lbs loaded, trailer will be dunked in saltwater.



thanks

Tom

Anyone running Timbren setups? I just came across this article on running torsion axels in tandem, it's worth a read. Sent me on a search for alternatives to what I had though was currently the best setup. I drag my boat a couple hundred miles each way every time I take it out and it's an old boat so I'm looking for the smoothest ride I can get. I tried to sleep in the boat on the way home one time and found out the ride from my ****ty old leaf springs was absolutely terrible. I'm not writing off torsion axels quite yet but I'd love some feedback from anyone who runs either setup.

Here's the Timbren setup:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...SR5200S01.html

and the articke on torsions in tandem:

https://mechanicalelements.com/torsi...dem-or-triple/

I will only put on the Stainless brake systems , rotors and all . My people go from fresh to saltwater , only thing that will stand up over time.
A leaf spring suspension with properly rated springs will be your best bet. Torsion axles are an easy way to build , but not worth a **** as far as ride.
Ive built trailers for everything imaginable .But hands down the leaf spring will be better , they handle sharp turns , uneven roads and the improperly balanced trailer load .
Torsions will not spread the load evenly between tires side to side. I did build a custom 3 axle race trailer that hand fabricated air ride suspension. Ride was like a cloud , the only draw back was
the bags were to small 3" , need to much air psi , so they tended to bounce . Needed custom shocks to kill the bounce. Next one we built hand 6" bags used 30 psi air .
rode so good , everyone wanted to ride in the trailer , no one would drive the truck !

I've had a box trailer for a racecar with torsions that was the best riding trailer I've ever had. I've had 30ft goosenecks, lots of under 30ft boat trailers, toyboxes, utility trailers and flat deck car trailers all of them with leaf springs have been pretty rough compared to the car trailer with torsion axles. Are you running anything else with the springs, I'm not talking about bags, but something else that helps the springs out ? I spoke with a couple trailer parts distributors today and they all said the Timbren setup was better but I've never seen a boat trailer with them.

Most production trailers with springs , have way to much spring or way to little , because the manuf doesnt know what will be hauled.
If the springs are matched to the load ( pretty easy on a boat trailer ). The ride will surpass the torsions . Every trailer Ive ever had or worked on ,
with torsions was way harder on tires , and tended to shuffle around on the road more , especially with high loads or top heavy loads. I'm in an
area where we have 3 large production trailer manufactures , the only reason they use torsions is speed and convenience of building.
Ive never used the Timbren Suspension , looks interesting , but still a glorified torsion . If you
use them I'd like to hear your opinion on them compared to a torsion.

I just completed entirely rebuilding my trailer with new axles, brakes, springs, etc. the only thing I used that was original was the side rails. I agree with Dunnitagain springs are the way to go. Like stated take the time to plan it out with the correct weight springs and it will ride great. I suggest Kodiak stainless disks and Hydrastar EOH master cylinder.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bdcd0776f6.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c0fce2bf18.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f4debfe1b9.jpg

I’ve always wondered why trailers don’t have shocks. Seems like an easy way to minimize the motions from the trailer rolling onto the truck. Any experience either way with that? Airbags do sound awesome though. ;p

My 33' Toy Hauler has shocks and leaf springs over 3 axles. I didn't know shocks existed for trailers either until I purchased my TH. I replaced them when I installed all new brakes, bearings, and tires. And the new shocks definitely made a difference.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lea...MaAl7VEALw_wcB

Here is one I did for a 33 Eliminator a few years ago .
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...663a212f50.jpg
Reverse Lights
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6e77e83efb.jpg
Moved the Axles Rearward about 16",
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b7c96dc26c.jpg

Hey Dunnitagain. I'm looking to an air bag system on my car trailer. Interested in getting some input on a design.

I'm almost convinced enough to go with the Timbren setup. I've gotten to hear from a few guys with them on decent sized boat trailers and they are all really happy with them. Lot of guys using them on little off-road teardrop styled trailers but they are using the single axel axle-less setup so I don't consider it to be very much the same thing. I'll leave some feedback here when I get it done, thanks for the advice bud.

You Never have any issues warping those stainless rotors do you? I want to get away from everything that will rust, I'm using stainless everything I can but stainless rotors I just can't get my head around. I've been working with stainless for a long time and it warps like a mother when it heats up so stainless discs sounds like a nightmare to me. I was going to go with stainless calipers, etc, but not rotors.

I have not had any issues, I put on about 2500 miles towing it and they have been great. I am not sure of the grade of stainless they are using but my guess is Austenitic which has a very high resistance to heat and corrosion. I was also concern, when you think about how hot they get and then get dunked in cold water, but so far they have been great. The single biggest upgrade I would suggest for anyone is the electric over hydraulic master, I was running about 65mph on the highway when a car cut off the semi a couple of trucks in front of me. I hit the hooks hard and was praying I could stop. The trailer stopped perfectly and stayed directly behind the truck. Pulling my Cafe fully fueled and over 12,000 lbs. I was sold.

My stainless rotors are 3 or 4 years old now. Still almost like new and are not warped at all.

Do you prefer radials or bias ply tire on a boat trailer?

I have had them both, I prefer the radials. Bias ply are okay but the radials are smoother and don't develop flat spots from sitting. Whatever you get make sure to get a tire that is weight rated for more than you pull, you will also want to watch your tire pressure and speed rating. There is nothing worse than saving a couple of bucks on a cheaper tire, then finding out it cost you 5 times as much when you loose a tire, delay your trip, or worse damage your trailer or boat.

Thanks bud, that's exactly what I needed to know!

to me one of the biggest items people cheap out on is tires.. my myco had lt tires on it, it was painful to watch the sidewalls in a turn wondering if it was going to pop off the rim. once i switched to 14 plys the world was a better place. towing, turning, no more jolts on expansion joints, no wobbling.. very much worth the extra money

I just switched from bias to radials this last year and found the radials were much more squishy, but filled up the air pressure to the upper end of the recommended range and things smoothed out a great deal. The extra air pressure also helps keep the tire from twisting in a knot on tight turns. I don’t miss the bias plies needing a few miles to round out the flat spots.

Over the summer , I towed from south Florida to lake powell , then to ATL and then back to Fl. I have all stainless Kodiak brakes , Goodyear endurance tires, airtight hubs , and torsion axles. Not a big boat. A Donzi 22 classic. My trailer is 4 years old. I didn’t have to add any grease to the hubs or air to the tires. 5400 miles round trip and not one problem. I am sure my trailer has been dunked in saltwater well over 100 times. I did add an EOH system before I went out west. Aluminum and Stainless Steel will serve you well. And good tires with the right air pressure.

Anything but Tie down engineering Chinese junk. Dont know if they are still around? Just say NO