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1980 30' Velocity - Redo in progress

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Old 11-13-2018 | 04:14 PM
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Default Battery Cables

I'm trying to figure out what gauge to use for my battery cables and hoping someone friendly here can shed some light. Cable manufactures need to know starter amp draw. My research shows it depends on how much the motor draws, etc... I have a moderate compression 10.5/1 motors, 3hp mini starters... I'm reading it might be in neighborhood of 250amp max? No real clue though. All I find is that "It depends".

I also read on this board that "I always use 4/0 to be sure." This is big wire. I'm fine with using it if it is needed but I'm going to have $600 in battery cables making them myself! I already purchased crimper, etc... as I do want the cables to be custom length. I took some very high level measurements to just tell me how much cable to order. I'm sure I can shorten these but wanted to have more than less when ordering. It is a pretty standard/basic 2 motor, 2 battery setup with batteries in engine compartment so nothing out of the ordinary.

Do I really want to use 4/0? Any recommendations would be helpful.

Tom
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Old 11-14-2018 | 08:02 AM
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Suggest posting this question in the Technical General Q&A section to get more exposure and answers from guys that rigged their boats and can share what worked.
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Old 12-28-2018 | 11:27 AM
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Much progress. A lot of wiring, plumbing, and general rigging moving along. Yesterday, we installed the engines! Special thanks to my brother Boog for the shop and crane and all the help. Also Tomer (Dad) was running the show along with a lot of help from Uncle Mikey! Without all the family help to keep the dream alive I'm not sure we would make it! This step really gets the blood flowing!

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Old 12-28-2018 | 11:37 AM
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wow, 12 year old thread congrats of the progress..... 1/0 is fine for the batteries/switches as long as the runs are not excessive
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Old 12-28-2018 | 11:42 AM
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Notice only 3 headers? For some reason, the two center headers hit and I couldn't get them in. I test fit them on the old engines with no problems. I'm guessing the motors might be able to move side to side just fractions of inches in the motor plates? I still have the crank center to center measurements used to have the headers fabricated so will double check that measurement to see if I have any clues. Here is a pick with old motors and new headers/exhaust... it really did fit!

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Old 12-28-2018 | 11:46 AM
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You will be ready this summer!!!!!
it is a great boat and you are doing it right!

Padraig
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Old 12-28-2018 | 11:54 AM
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Some AFR heads have raised exhaust ports, this may be the issue with the clearance
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Old 12-28-2018 | 12:23 PM
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Very nice.
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Old 12-28-2018 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
Some AFR heads have raised exhaust ports, this may be the issue with the clearance
Ill have to look into it. I would have thought header maker would have asked what heads if that was the case? I really hope not. I guess I could take a hammer to them like I have multiple times on hot rods, but I'm afraid of coating and of the jacketed nature... Ugh.
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Old 12-28-2018 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ttrm007
Ill have to look into it. I would have thought header maker would have asked what heads if that was the case? I really hope not. I guess I could take a hammer to them like I have multiple times on hot rods, but I'm afraid of coating and of the jacketed nature... Ugh.
Afr 220s. .250” raised exhaust runners.

https://www.airflowresearch.com/220c...cylinder-head/

will move header out from engine (0.25/(2^0.5))= 0.1768”. So your header gap will be 0.354” less

Last edited by hogie roll; 12-28-2018 at 02:37 PM.
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