Fuel gauge wouldn't work
 

Fuel gauge wouldn't work, after trouble shooting I found the problem and it only took $350.00 to get it to show full. The problem was no gas in the tank. VV's ready to go!:hitfan:

Things that make you go HMMMMMMMMMMMMM.VV are you going to, make our V run as well as the Lake Norman run.I hope so.;

I knew this thread would catch your attention Hyper!!:hitfan:

I'm looking hard at it Hyper, I'm hoping to make at least one.




Need a little help here, 496 HO closed cooling, I installed water pressure gauges and they have machinical sender, you know the plastic tubing to the gauge. I installed it on the motor and don't get a reading on the gauge while the engine is running with water hose attached and engine at operating temp. Have I got it installed wrong? Do you have to bleed the line to the gauge? I installed the plastic tubing on the front starboard side of the engine below the heat exchanger. I was told to install it on the back of the engine on the oil cooler but my cooler has no place to mount anything, it just has 2 oil lines and a in and out water line. I was told to remove the sender from the oil cooler and install a T. There is a sender back there but it is on the manifold not the oil cooler. On the diagram below I installed the tubing to #6 plug. See red arrow.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...ty320/2064.jpg

Or should I install it here?
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...ty320/4810.png

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...COOLING+SYSTEM

Tell us more! :cool-smiley-011:

You are not likley to get a lot of pressure on a hose. On my last Fountain the water pressure gauges were hooked in at one of the drain plugs in the block itself, but it was not a closed system like the 496. The new boat has 525's which are closed cooling, I'll be working on it today and will take a look.

I would not bleed the air out of the line. On the last one I would actually disconnect it at the gauge and blow it out when I was winterizing at the end of the season.

You could have just called Hyper, he has the fuel gauge deal all figured out, so I hear. It will read empty when there is little or no fuel in the tank, shortly after it gets to empty mark the engines, for some reason, will no longer run. I understand he's run this experiment several times and has established the fact that it is correct.

I have seen him "drifting" in Eastern Bay before. The best part was the look on his face when the sailboat passed him!!! :evilb: Ok, it sounded good anyway!!:hitfan:

That is the most politically correct way of saying he run out of gas!!!

I took the sensor out on the black arrow diagram, put a tee there and installed the sensor back in then connected the plastic hose there. I figure if the pressure smartcraft is in the same location I should be good

Thanks a lot, how come nobody told me the back seat folded down? I figured it out when I fell my fat a$$ between the seat and engines, something had to give and it wasn't the engine.

This should give you a good laugh< After installing the gauges I went to turn the ignition switches on. Well they wouldn't turn, Remember these are brand new switches and worked fine before I installed them. I thought I must have tightened them up to much and screwed them up or something. Wife and I went to the parts store, I was going to by 2 new ignition switches, When we got inside the store and the dude found the switches I needed, The wife asked me, "Huney did you try to switch key's on the switches"? At that point I felt like that little piss ant pulling that big old frieght train. Then she told the dude that waited on us, "See what I have to put up with"! Hey that's my line I told her.

Only reason I am telling you this is because you guy's don't know anyone here in town that I know. VV
Hyper you feel better now?

Hey VV,

I checked the water pressure deal out today on mine, the hoses for the gauges go into a fitting in the block one of the drain plug holes.

Thanks Ragged, That's where I re-installed it inline with the original sensor. So they are both still there. I tested it again but still no pressure with just a water hose, I'll see if it works in the water.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...320/Sensor.jpg

Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I will be installing the oil temp sending units. I will remove the remote oil filter bracket base and filter, drill and tap an 1/8" hole in the bottom area of the gap between the outside sealing edge and the center thread flange. Install the sender below the oil filter.

VV,

Are you trying to measure the water pressure of the closed cooling circuit or the raw water flow? My vote would be raw water as you can tell if you have cooler/exchanger blockage or a spent impellar before things heat up. This is more likely then a closed system leak.

You won't see much raw water pressure until the boat is moving in the water. As I recall, I needed to be about 5 to 10 MPH for it to register. There's less flow resistance in your heat exchanger set up (then a raw water cooled set up) so you may need to go a little faster to register.

I first hooked it up on the closed cooling system, then slapped myself and said, "Why did I do that", I needed to have a reading on the raw water so like you said, before things there heat up and tell if the impeller is wearing out. Now I can relax and have a V-8 juice.

I got the remote oil bracket off and took them to the machine shop to get the 1/8" hole drilled and tapped for the oil temp sender. Hope he doesn't screw it up.