Chinewalking
#11
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 19
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From: Bradenton, Florida
I'm pretty sure. I bought the drive used and was told it was. My mechanic opened it up and resealed everything. I wasn't told otherwise. I do know the person I bought it from was another mechanic and had 1.36 bravo drives as well for sale. But he told me it was 1.50
#12
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 102
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From: maryland
1 Make sure you have a 1:50 gear ratio,not a 1:36 gear ratio in that drive.
2 If 1:50,try a 25" pitch prop
3 Have someone hold the steering wheel and see if any play in that drive
4 check for rev limiter
5 check bottom of boat for rocker or delamination
2 If 1:50,try a 25" pitch prop
3 Have someone hold the steering wheel and see if any play in that drive
4 check for rev limiter
5 check bottom of boat for rocker or delamination
#14
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 217
Likes: 2
From: FL
If you are chine walking, you are probably not getting up on the pad well. You need enough speed and you need to lift the nose to force the pressure onto the back end of the pad. Are you trimming the drive out as far as you can? Hydromotive sells both versions of prop--both bow lift and more neutral/stern lift. You want the "X" version of their props if you want bow lift--that would be a Quad IV-X for their four blade.
I run their P5-X five blade on my 290SC and it lifts the bow up and takes away chine walk--was a massive improvement over a Bravo four blade. The rest was that I had to trim the drive out as far as possible to lift the nose before the chine walking can set in.
I run their P5-X five blade on my 290SC and it lifts the bow up and takes away chine walk--was a massive improvement over a Bravo four blade. The rest was that I had to trim the drive out as far as possible to lift the nose before the chine walking can set in.
#15
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 249
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From: Sarasota, Fl
I'm still not sure exactly what they did, but they got it right.
#17

Last edited by mikes280; 12-12-2010 at 05:51 PM.
#18
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,348
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Pipe down pipe head...
4 & 5 blades on a 22 footer?
Oscillations start because it is falling off the pad. Big words make it look like I know what I am talking about, don't hurt yourself! Anyway, great hull- just have to let it do what it is designed to do and then push the boat forward. Less blades, less drag. Less diameter, more pitch and prop torque is a bonus. Higher rake will bring the slip down and 70MPH here we come!
4 & 5 blades on a 22 footer?
Oscillations start because it is falling off the pad. Big words make it look like I know what I am talking about, don't hurt yourself! Anyway, great hull- just have to let it do what it is designed to do and then push the boat forward. Less blades, less drag. Less diameter, more pitch and prop torque is a bonus. Higher rake will bring the slip down and 70MPH here we come!
#20
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,134
Likes: 160
From: central IL
I tend to agree with you. I was thinking a Laser II would work better also. On 22ft and less, a three blade seems to work very well. My boat is a pad bottom also. I picked up roughly 8mph going from a 21p M+ to a 23p LaserII at the same rpm but I lost ALOT of cruising efficiency (worse gas mileage). I'm thinking a 25p LaserII would be what he's looking for.


