Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Owners Forum > Velocity
Test ran the new Raylar goodies >

Test ran the new Raylar goodies

Notices

Test ran the new Raylar goodies

Thread Tools
 
Old 02-26-2019 | 09:20 AM
  #91  
Thread Starter
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 153
From: Tygart Lake, WV
Default



02 bungs done. Psi tested and sprayed. Did both risers.
Ryan00TJ is offline  
Reply
Old 02-26-2019 | 10:14 AM
  #92  
Registered
25 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 650
From: Lakewood, NY, USA
Default

Looks good.

Padraig
Padraig is offline  
Reply
Old 04-12-2019 | 09:35 AM
  #93  
Thread Starter
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 153
From: Tygart Lake, WV
Default

Installed an AEM Wideband controller. Very nice piece for $150. Pulled my hour meter and relocated. Used that hole for the wideband gauge. Going to monitor AF off both banks and then leave hooked up to the leanest of the two.


Ryan00TJ is offline  
Reply
Old 04-12-2019 | 11:38 AM
  #94  
Registered
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Melbourne,Australia
Default

Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
Installed an AEM Wideband controller. Very nice piece for $150. Pulled my hour meter and relocated. Used that hole for the wideband gauge. Going to monitor AF off both banks and then leave hooked up to the leanest of the two.


nice I got the same gauge x 2
If only I had a running engine
AusScarab29 is offline  
Reply
Old 04-12-2019 | 12:59 PM
  #95  
Gold Member
15 Year Member
Gold Member
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,748
Likes: 869
From: Delray Beach, FL
Default

If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
Keith Atlanta is offline  
Reply
Old 04-12-2019 | 01:00 PM
  #96  
Gold Member
15 Year Member
Gold Member
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,748
Likes: 869
From: Delray Beach, FL
Default

BTW, what A/F are you shooting for?
Keith Atlanta is offline  
Reply
Old 04-13-2019 | 08:57 AM
  #97  
Thread Starter
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 153
From: Tygart Lake, WV
Default

Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
Keith, Appreciate your thoughts on this. Yep 203 cam. My risers are dry to 1" off transom. Hoping to not have any problems. Will definately be checking the 02 sensor. I will be adjusting air/fuel by adjusting fuel pressure. I would like to stay mid 12s on anything above idle and low 12s at wot. I might have to datalog all info and have Dustin adjust my stage 2 tune. Per Larry I have base FP set at 46psi to start.

Last edited by Ryan00TJ; 04-13-2019 at 10:32 AM.
Ryan00TJ is offline  
Reply
Old 05-28-2019 | 10:07 PM
  #98  
BUP
Banned
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 9,594
Likes: 45
From: Ft. Worth TX
Default

Originally Posted by boatnt
I posted a couple of pics of a piston we took out of a 496 we are doing with 337 hours,a lot of people say the pistons on the 496s are junk,well they may not be the best thats for sure but I think they are better than people give them credit to be,this engine hydro locked and destroyed the connecting rod as you guys can see,but the piston did not break,also had the crank magnaflux and its fine,just thought I would share this info with you guys,now if you add a whipple or supercharge it then I would think anything could go at any time,but that would go for any engine
Wanted to ask what caused the hydro lock ? injector itself stuck open issue or a PCM issue or water leak or water reversion or ? I want to pass that info on to other 496 owners, some had the same issue as well along with broke / bent rods.. Thanks
BUP is offline  
Reply
Old 05-29-2019 | 09:35 AM
  #99  
Registered
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,821
Likes: 376
From: IL
Default

Originally Posted by BUP
Wanted to ask what caused the hydro lock ? injector itself stuck open issue or a PCM issue or water leak or water reversion or ? I want to pass that info on to other 496 owners, some had the same issue as well along with broke / bent rods.. Thanks
stock open #7 injector
boatnt is offline  
Reply
Old 08-01-2019 | 08:32 AM
  #100  
Thread Starter
Registered
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 153
From: Tygart Lake, WV
Default

Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
Keith, Appreciate your thoughts on this. Yep 203 cam. My risers are dry to 1" off transom. Hoping to not have any problems. Will definately be checking the 02 sensor. I will be adjusting air/fuel by adjusting fuel pressure. I would like to stay mid 12s on anything above idle and low 12s at wot. I might have to datalog all info and have Dustin adjust my stage 2 tune. Per Larry I have base FP set at 46psi to start.
Update. Only ran the boat 12hrs this summer so far..... Everything running great though. 47psi fuel pressure gets me 13.4-1 at idle. 12.8-13.0-1 from 2200-4200rpms. 12.8-12.2-1 from 4400-5200rpms. Plugs confirm very clean running. Very nice monitoring airfuel all the time. Yesterday, ran my bblades labbed bravo 28p. Hot 90s, 60gal fuel, gear, me, calm water 74.8 @ 5100rpms.
Ryan00TJ is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.