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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4671745)
just a few things -- the crank position has 3 only pull out and reinstall. After that it needs to be replaced with a brand new --- regardless.
also make sure your fuel pressure dampner internally is super spotless clean and rail lines to it. Paint and or fuel varnish and or rust really can settle in its base and in the dampner itself plus its small rail lines. Just some added info. The dampner will have U clip for a hold in place and 2 O rings internally and has to SEAL 100 percent. The 2 o rings can also become dried out and or cracked. The 2 O rings alot of times will need to be changed out with new. Sometimes not but alot of times YES they will need to be changed. |
met to say the crank position SENSOR is only a 3 pull out / reinstall after that needs to be replace regardless.
The fuel pressure dampner HOUSING is a dumping ground in there for all kinds of crap including RUST and PAINT. The fuel will vanish in there as well. Just saying to be clear about that one. |
Man that 3 pull out and reinstall sure does not sound good for dudes - with that practice prob many little ones on the way.
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She's back in. Going to test fire in boat and then pull risers and weld in 02 bungs. Maybe a water test in april/may timeframe. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a61eff072d.jpg
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You are way past it but for what its worth in the future, dont run it on the floor on the oil pan. Throw a block of wood under the front. When I was testing mine I had stall issues and slight reversion issues only to realize sitting on the floor on the pan has nowhere near the angle of when its in the boat. Back in the day of Ray @ Raylar it took 3 phone calls to finally realize that is a big no-no.
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I like your air inlet tubes |
Air tubes part of the VR1 package if I;m not mistaken, A bunch of things like this is why these boats are so damn fast for the power used.
Looking/sounding good Ryan ! |
On the 280 s the air ducks are further back and not as far into the engine - kind of a short snub version for the 280 s. The 290s are that way in the pic or least the ones I seen.
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4671949)
Air tubes part of the VR1 package if I;m not mistaken, A bunch of things like this is why these boats are so damn fast for the power used.
Looking/sounding good Ryan ! Velocity claimed the "Ram Air" tubes pressurized the engine compartment to 3.5-4 psi and kept temps under 100*. I've cracked the hatch and put my hand in there cruising 45-50. There's alot of air coming in! Scott, Appreciate it! Hope to burn lotsa fuel this summer!! |
We use to test the engine compartments temps all the time. Actually many years ago being a dealer for new boats we use to have to rig the whole darn boat - We pick the engine packages and drive and so on - then cut the darn hole and go to town installing alot of systems to the brand of hull.
Anyways how I use to test the engine compartment temps way back in the day ( and Merc wanted you to as well ) was with a outside temp monitor aka outside weather monitors. Of course today there is alot on the market to test temps with and even measure air flow. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b2493dec48.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...390ebf2241.jpg 02 bungs done. Psi tested and sprayed. Did both risers. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3770af5d02.jpg |
Looks good.
Padraig |
Installed an AEM Wideband controller. Very nice piece for $150. Pulled my hour meter and relocated. Used that hole for the wideband gauge. Going to monitor AF off both banks and then leave hooked up to the leanest of the two.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b5e955e0c1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...03605dd623.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6cedf10dc0.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
(Post 4681718)
Installed an AEM Wideband controller. Very nice piece for $150. Pulled my hour meter and relocated. Used that hole for the wideband gauge. Going to monitor AF off both banks and then leave hooked up to the leanest of the two.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b5e955e0c1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...03605dd623.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6cedf10dc0.jpg If only I had a running engine |
If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
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BTW, what A/F are you shooting for?
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Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 4681753)
If you already know, disregard. What I have seen in my application and on other boat setups is that even though your engine isnt actually reverting, it still sucks in moist vapor. Typically, this ends up creating a calcium coating or calcium deposit on the A/F sensor. If you brush off the sensor with a brass wire brush it comes off but I dont think it is something that will last more than 3-4 starts and runs and will need to be cleaned to be 100% accurate. Idling kills mine. So for the most accurate data, I would clean, screw in. start and immediately drop in gear and go. Once you are over 2000 rpm they are fine. Idling would build up calcium real fast, even after 15-20 seconds. I think you have the 525 Raylar cam which is a tad smaller than mine but I am dry to within 4 inches of the transom so we are probably about equal as far as moisture is concerned. But the bottom line is it isnt a car. I dont know how accurate I would expect the data to be after you run it a while. If it isnt 100% accurate or repeatable that .1 more A/F ratio could be a hole in your piston.
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Originally Posted by boatnt
(Post 4670953)
I posted a couple of pics of a piston we took out of a 496 we are doing with 337 hours,a lot of people say the pistons on the 496s are junk,well they may not be the best thats for sure but I think they are better than people give them credit to be,this engine hydro locked and destroyed the connecting rod as you guys can see,but the piston did not break,also had the crank magnaflux and its fine,just thought I would share this info with you guys,now if you add a whipple or supercharge it then I would think anything could go at any time,but that would go for any engine
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4688844)
Wanted to ask what caused the hydro lock ? injector itself stuck open issue or a PCM issue or water leak or water reversion or ? I want to pass that info on to other 496 owners, some had the same issue as well along with broke / bent rods.. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
(Post 4681889)
Keith, Appreciate your thoughts on this. Yep 203 cam. My risers are dry to 1" off transom. Hoping to not have any problems. Will definately be checking the 02 sensor. I will be adjusting air/fuel by adjusting fuel pressure. I would like to stay mid 12s on anything above idle and low 12s at wot. I might have to datalog all info and have Dustin adjust my stage 2 tune. Per Larry I have base FP set at 46psi to start.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1502aaab9b.jpg |
Nice have a few questions - easily see the reflash of the pcm 555. And it looks in the pics you still have the stock merc 496 throttle body ? Correct ? The IAC hose fitting is plugged off so you do not have the stock set up for that end. Did you delete the IAC completely and just set up the idle control by opening up the throttle plate a bit / tad more and or enlarged the hole in the throttle plate ? Have you scanned the engine to see what the TPS and if anything for the IAC shows at all ? And how steady are your idle rpms ? Just asking to hear the feedback.
You got rid of the remote oil filter mount - was that to remove the lines and tidy up all that for a cleaner look ? the blue silicone 4 inch ID used for your exhaust riser hose joint - who's is that - is that from the auto turbo end as per what the use ? This company ? https://www.samcosport.com/manufacturer/couplings/ |
If in fact your throttle body is stock as it looks in the pics ( the blue is throwing me off a bit thou ) do you have the stock flame arrestor ? I would like to see if anything changes using the stock flame arrestor - anything AT ALL -- including AFR s --- same day testing swap out just to see .
also have you tried the NGK plugs -- which exact AC delco spark plugs are you using ? any change there from the OEM recommended stock app spark plugs |
something flying around https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b9095d9975.jpg
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4699903)
Nice have a few questions - easily see the reflash of the pcm 555. And it looks in the pics you still have the stock merc 496 throttle body ? Correct ? The IAC hose fitting is plugged off so you do not have the stock set up for that end. Did you delete the IAC completely and just set up the idle control by opening up the throttle plate a bit / tad more and or enlarged the hole in the throttle plate ? Have you scanned the engine to see what the TPS and if anything for the IAC shows at all ? And how steady are your idle rpms ? Just asking to hear the feedback.
You got rid of the remote oil filter mount - was that to remove the lines and tidy up all that for a cleaner look ? the blue silicone 4 inch ID used for your exhaust riser hose joint - who's is that - is that from the auto turbo end as per what the use ? This company ? https://www.samcosport.com/manufacturer/couplings/ Couplers are from HPS. http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/cat...gory/view/id/8 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...66e76254e8.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d7684b6efe.jpg |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4699906)
If in fact your throttle body is stock as it looks in the pics ( the blue is throwing me off a bit thou ) do you have the stock flame arrestor ? I would like to see if anything changes using the stock flame arrestor - anything AT ALL -- including AFR s --- same day testing swap out just to see .
also have you tried the NGK plugs -- which exact AC delco spark plugs are you using ? any change there from the OEM recommended stock app spark plugs Another cool note... With the symmetrical intake and cylinder head ports, EFI, the air-fuel ratio from one engine bank to other is very similar. Within a couple tenths across rpm range. |
Hey Ryan, what oil thermostat and adapter did you use |
Originally Posted by AusScarab29
(Post 4700042)
Hey Ryan, what oil thermostat and adapter did you use https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...95aac27d11.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...175d405f44.jpg |
[QUOTE=Ryan00TJ;4700046]Earl's 504. https://www.holley.com/products/plum...t/parts/504ERL The standard 496 oil filter adapter ( the part that bolts on the block) blocks of the center hole where the filter would usualy spin onto ,the oil is sent to the remote filter using the outer holes then goes through the filter and returns back to the block using a seperate fitting.The adapter you are using is like the traditional way all other bbk flow oil.Does the adapter you are using work fine on the 496,does the center hole flow oil correctly |
[QUOTE=AusScarab29;4700063]
Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
(Post 4700046)
Earl's 504. https://www.holley.com/products/plum...t/parts/504ERL
The standard 496 oil filter adapter ( the part that bolts on the block) blocks of the center hole where the filter would usualy spin onto ,the oil is sent to the remote filter using the outer holes then goes through the filter and returns back to the block using a seperate fitting.The adapter you are using is like the traditional way all other bbk flow oil.Does the adapter you are using work fine on the 496,does the center hole flow oil correctly |
glad all is well and yes the stock flame arrestors offers almost zero filtration . That can be bad for the rings and the cyc walls and so on.
Never heard of an engine making gobs more HP when it can NOT filter crap out from entering internally of the throtlle body and engine. |
Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
(Post 4699783)
Update. Only ran the boat 12hrs this summer so far.....:mad: Everything running great though. 47psi fuel pressure gets me 13.4-1 at idle. 12.8-13.0-1 from 2200-4200rpms. 12.8-12.2-1 from 4400-5200rpms. Plugs confirm very clean running. Very nice monitoring airfuel all the time. Yesterday, ran my bblades labbed bravo 28p. Hot 90s, 60gal fuel, gear, me, calm water 74.8 @ 5100rpms. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5b15645bdb.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1502aaab9b.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ
(Post 4699948)
I went with the K@N air filter after seeing the amount of belt dust in the intake plenum of the Raylar intake.
That was a huge pet peeve of mine during my rebuilds. With some patience, you can put a straight edge between the pullies. Starting with the one furthest out you can shim the others using 1/4 inch stainless washers. Once you get them all at the same depth and the proper tension, the dust disappears. |
Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 4700873)
That was a huge pet peeve of mine during my rebuilds. With some patience, you can put a straight edge between the pullies. Starting with the one furthest out you can shim the others using 1/4 inch stainless washers. Once you get them all at the same depth and the proper tension, the dust disappears.
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Gates has one to - I ll see if I can find it and post
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Great thread, any more news or improvements?
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Originally Posted by Pismo10
(Post 4774709)
Great thread, any more news or improvements?
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Awesome post, glad you directed me to it! What year is your VR1?
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Originally Posted by Jamescmei
(Post 4857667)
Awesome post, glad you directed me to it! What year is your VR1?
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