Test ran the new Raylar goodies
 

Installed a Raylar 80mm Cool Gap intake along with 1.7 stainless rockers. Reassembled enough to test fire. Still have some wiring and minor adjustments to make. Can't decide to use the stock 75mm tb or upgrade to Raylar's 80mm Accufab tb. TPS and IAC counts look good with.no adjustment. The high pitched whistle when revving is new. Sounded similar to belt squeal but definately coming from the intake. Not really looking for any power or speed gains until I get rid of the stock heads/cam. While apart had the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested by BUP. Well worth every penny! Also disassembled and stripped all internal paint from the Merc gen 3 cool fuel module. No more problems there. Looks much better I must say..

https://i.imgur.com/vvHMoqH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UQsX0Vb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DMkrV0s.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jCOVe6S.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wEyQzda.jpg

https://youtu.be/4qeKaiNKAlA

That looks very , very bad azz.

Padraig

Now you have a table on your boat

I'm happy with how it turned out and yes it works great to sit your beer on!!!

I'm not sure how safe it is to drink beer while operating a water vessel. Just kidding, engine looks great. I'm sure when you upgrade the heads/cam it's going to sound even better than it looks. Cheers

It looks great Ryan. I'm looking forward to seeing, in a few months, the results of the water test.

Nice work Ryan... looks killer! Sounds damn good as well!!!

I'd still like to cut your old one apart to see how easy it would be to produce a better one

What did you end up doing to your GEN 3 cool fuel internally to it stripping all the paint out ? Be careful what was used cause of the fuel pumps connections and wiring.

And thanks for the good words in POST # 1.

Also keep in mind those GEN 3 cool fuel assemblies can have up to 3 fuel filters. 2 min fuel filters is the norm but there is 3 in many as well. They need to be changed out once per year min. Best at the start of every boating season.

Also make sure you have the newest basket fuel filter kit. It comes with 2 o rings. The older kit only provided 1 o ring. It needs the 2 o rings changed. FYI to all.

The air comes in at the bottom of the intake and then upward thru the runners. GM designed for long runners that did not need alot of extra height for the applications being used in. That was their ( GM ) main objective.

Correct ----- Stock --- was a 75 mm bore size for the the throttle body. Id see about 80 mm bore.

LOOKS like everyone still has to quote the youtube links. Why can they not fix this up here. Jeezzzzzzzzzz

John, I pulled the cool fuel and disassembled. Left both pumps in the top half. No paint in this area. Removed the rubber bases on the bottom and used aircraft paint stripper, wire brush, tooth brush to remove the paint. That Merc phantom black is good stuff!! Probably 3 hrs of elbow grease removing all the paint. Thoroughly flushed housing after and reassemble. Cleaned the mesh pickup
Screen on the fuel pump,changed filters and reassembled.

https://i.imgur.com/BHZzR1X.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/km9geuN.jpg

Ryan, when can you run it to let us know the differences?

You only did intake and rockers? What cam? ECU?

FWIW, the whistle will go away if you drill the hole out in the butterfly I think 5/16. Call Larry and ask. I also put a chamfer on mine too and it went away.

Hi Keith, April/May before water testing. Unfortunately a few months of winter left. Not expecting any noticeable speed gains.

I have a Raylar HO525 kit minus the heads on the shelf. I wanted a winter project so added the Cool Gap and rockers. Probably won't add the cam/heads till I pull engine and refresh with forged parts. Stock 496ho cam. PCM has Whipple's stage 2 tune.

I'll look into the tb hole modification. It's stock now. Larry wants me to upgrade to the 80mm tb. I just don't think it's needed with stock cam/heads.

April gone and May in swing... results required sir!
:popcorn:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fa46e3dd77.jpg
Kept the stock HO throttlebody. Ran the boat this weekend. Lake is flood control and finally at summer pool. Debris still floating so have had to go easy. Got a chance yesterday to run WOT for a min. Hot humid mid 80s, 5 people on board, coolers, 50-70 gal fuel. Very slight chop. Ran 72 @ 4850. Bblades Bravo 1 30p.
Previous setup same conditions would have ran 70-71. Plan on trying my Bravo 28p here soon. Stay tuned

Looks Bad Ass.
Seems to be running good. Have you tried a 28 pitch prop?

padraig

Thanks! Any speed gains will be an added bonus. When the heads/cam are installed is when it will be really noticeable! Pre intake/rockers setup my bblades bravo 28p ran 74 @ 5100 rpms. bravo 30p was 74.7 @ 4875 rpms.

Glad you made it out and sounds like she's breathing better with the bolt on goodies... congrats! Raylar decals look great in that font too!!!

Water improved yesterday. Was able to run the new setup some more. 2 passengers, 40gal fuel, coolers, hot high 80s, nice chop. Hull was riding nice and high on the pad. Ran 74.3 @ 4850rpms. Bravo 30p.

just me, 20gal and no coolers it's a 76-77mph ride all day long! Hope to try the 28p Bravo in the next few weeks. Stay tuned!!!

Sounds like you are having fun and the VR 1 is running great!

padraig

Subscribed..............

Pulled the boat last weekend to replace a leaking circulating pump. Noticed small puddle of orange coolant in the bilge. Confirmed coming from weep hole. Pretty easy straightforward job. Cleaned everything up on the front of the engine. Original pump 06' and 547hrs run time. Looked into the Raylar intake and noticed a fair amount of belt dust. With the stock intake you cannot see down into the plenum to notice the buildup. It's always been there on this setup. I believe it's due to close proximity of pulleys to backseat rest bulkhead/velocity ram air.

The stock flame arrestor flows great but has no filtering ability. Installed a K&N flame arrestor to correct this. Before installing I cleaned the intake plenum out, so we'll see how it filters compared to stock.

Also swapped on my 28p bblades labbed Bravo 1 prop to try with the new combo.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bb514ed784.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d51d894b77.jpg

Sounds and looks great!

Padraig

Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Look's and sounds great, very nice job on the project.

Very clean looking setup and it sounds great too!

Appreciate the compliments. Hopefully can just burn fuel and not wrench on anything the rest of summer.

Been telling everyone with a 496 at 500 hours you better change the water circ pump regardless if not sooner. See John in NY I told you - I would not go over 500 hours on the circ pump even being closed cooled.. I have seen the reduce cooling seems to be the norm at around 500 hour mark and then the leaks thru the weep hole takes place within this timeframe of hours. Just saying.

Bblades labbed 28p Bravo one. Me, 65gal, calm water. 73.8@5150. Easy 75 mph with a little chop on the water.

Looks good and sounds like it’s running good. I like those colors!

My Father always said "boating is a sickness". Well, it's true. I can't leave well enough alone. Engine is prepped and ready to pull.

Winter plans.......

Remove Merc oil setup. Add a tstat sandwich adapter and upgrade oil cooler. Melling 10778 oil pump. 30psi Bypass valves.

Remove Merc air drain valves.

Install 02 bungs in risers to monitor/tune AF ratio. Install adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Install Raylar 203 cam and upgraded springs. The 203 is Raylar's 731 equivalent.

I would really like to go ahead and replace the stock heads with Raylar's 315 CNC heads. Alot of coin at the moment. Now is the time though.......

I'll keep updating.....https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9ede77246c.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1f6d479c89.jpg

WOW great project. Keep the pics coming. We will need them this winter. What up do you think you will end up with?

You need to bring that bad boy to the Battleship Run at Seneca Lake this coming year. Two VR 1s would be cool and I could check that bad boy out.

Padraig

I see the rear engine mounts out --- placed to the rear side

Possible the pic not clear but not sure so I will mention --- your starboard trim tab oil reservoir looks like it has milk in it (water mix) ??. The other trim tab oil reservoir looks to be good ( clear oil )

Padraig, Winter is right! Just shook my head watching it snow yesterday. With the 203 cam only, 475hp and high 70s. Heads/203 540hp + and low 80s. I've got the Battleship run on my calendar. Would really enjoy that.

BUP, Good eye!! It is slightly milky. Just replaced a stainless braid hose on my Dana hp1000 tabs that had a tiny pinhole. Flushing the reservoir to get rid of the milky oil.

Trained eyes - haha

if you pull the reservoir off there is possible 2 hanging screens for the valve body. Those screens can become caked as well depending on the milk. I have seen it caked all around the screens when the reservoirs become milky. Again it depends on things like how long it was like that and how thick the milk was. This also goes the same for the outdrive trim reservoir when that reservoir gets milky. Anyways a short jist of the valve body screens for the apps that have them.

Any plans for new exhaust?

Not at this time or power level. The manifolds are aluminum 496 models. 66lbs lighter than the cast iron models. Turbulators removed. My risers have been extended 12.5" to mix water/exhaust at the transom as well.

The CMI sport tubes or Dana Flo torque setups would be an upgrade. I don't think the performance vs cost ratio is there at my power level.

I'll check them out. Appreciate the info.

Dude just do the pistons. Keep the stock crank, rods and the piston kit will be a breeze.

The aluminum heads will bump your compression ratio from roughly 9 to almost 10. If you barf a piston with those new heads it will make you sick. Plus, then you can run the 206 cam next winter easy.... :)