Next step.
11-23-2018, 09:23 AM
#31
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04-08-2019, 09:05 PM
#35
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Location: Ogdensburg Ny
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That and I would try a one inch shortie drive. The IMCO drive is the best drive for your application. did you try a labbed BRAVO 26 ???
If you can get on plane with a 4 blade prop it should be faster than the 5 blade. Also that 5 blade is causing a lot of transom lift.
One other thing you could try is to cut the bell off of the back of your 5 blade. This should lower the back of the boat so that you don't need to trim as much.
I could not run a 5 blade because it caused too much transom lift even with the bell cut off.
If you can get on plane with a 4 blade prop it should be faster than the 5 blade. Also that 5 blade is causing a lot of transom lift.
One other thing you could try is to cut the bell off of the back of your 5 blade. This should lower the back of the boat so that you don't need to trim as much.
I could not run a 5 blade because it caused too much transom lift even with the bell cut off.
Last edited by Royalflush280; 04-09-2019 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Change the way it was written
04-09-2019, 08:12 PM
#36
The closer the prop shaft is to the surface of the water or the more blades the prop has increases the transom lift.
On my boat the drive rides on top of the water going under the boat. ( the bullet sits on top of the water )
The bullet and the flare at the back of the prop act as a ski and causes transom lift. The higher the bullet is but yet not fully surfaced the more transom lift.
Transom lift counteracts trim for bow lift. This will cause you to trim more than is safe and can cause an ill handling boat at speed.
04-09-2019, 08:35 PM
#37
Boatally insane
You say that you are using a lot of trim.- but from what you have listed you are not.
If 5 is neutral than any trim setting below 5 is negative trim.
Any number above 5 is positive trim.
Once I am on plane I always trim to neutral for best speed at a certain RPM.
A setting of 5.5 to 6 is probably still parallel to the water surface due to the angle of the hull to the water because the bow has risen.
My drive is fully surfaced and at top speed I run only 5.5 to 6 with 5 being neutral on my boat also.
If that is all that you are trimming that is less than most V bottom boats.
You say that you are using a lot of trim.- but from what you have listed you are not.
If 5 is neutral than any trim setting below 5 is negative trim.
Any number above 5 is positive trim.
Once I am on plane I always trim to neutral for best speed at a certain RPM.
A setting of 5.5 to 6 is probably still parallel to the water surface due to the angle of the hull to the water because the bow has risen.
My drive is fully surfaced and at top speed I run only 5.5 to 6 with 5 being neutral on my boat also.
If that is all that you are trimming that is less than most V bottom boats.
04-11-2019, 09:23 PM
#38
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It all depends on the boat and how far your prop shaft is below the running surface at speed.
The closer the prop shaft is to the surface of the water or the more blades the prop has increases the transom lift.
On my boat the drive rides on top of the water going under the boat. ( the bullet sits on top of the water )
The bullet and the flare at the back of the prop act as a ski and causes transom lift. The higher the bullet is but yet not fully surfaced the more transom lift.
Transom lift counteracts trim for bow lift. This will cause you to trim more than is safe and can cause an ill handling boat at speed.
The closer the prop shaft is to the surface of the water or the more blades the prop has increases the transom lift.
On my boat the drive rides on top of the water going under the boat. ( the bullet sits on top of the water )
The bullet and the flare at the back of the prop act as a ski and causes transom lift. The higher the bullet is but yet not fully surfaced the more transom lift.
Transom lift counteracts trim for bow lift. This will cause you to trim more than is safe and can cause an ill handling boat at speed.
Last edited by Royalflush280; 04-11-2019 at 09:29 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
04-11-2019, 11:25 PM
#39
Registered
04-12-2019, 09:14 PM
#40
When you separate the top and bottom halves of the drive You will see a huge hole that goes down the back of the drive. I just cut a piece of Lexan and used 5300 to seal it in place. No air flow trough prop now.
This will help the prop hook up to get on plane.
There are a lot of little things that can be done for few $ and little time that will help a boat get on plane.
My Daytona wouldn't begin to get on plane with a 4 blade prop and barely get on plane with the 5 blade.
I shortened the trim rams 3/4 inch and modified other parts to allow the drive to tuck under more. ( more negative trim ) This allows the prop to be deeper in the water and also causes the prop to push up on the back of the boat more than with the normal trim level.
This will help the prop hook up to get on plane.
There are a lot of little things that can be done for few $ and little time that will help a boat get on plane.
My Daytona wouldn't begin to get on plane with a 4 blade prop and barely get on plane with the 5 blade.
I shortened the trim rams 3/4 inch and modified other parts to allow the drive to tuck under more. ( more negative trim ) This allows the prop to be deeper in the water and also causes the prop to push up on the back of the boat more than with the normal trim level.
