Advice on Hull Strengthening
#1
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Advice on Hull Strengthening
I have a 22 Ft. fiberglass speedboat that had rotten stringers and transom and is currently undergoing restoration. The boat is completely stripped down to bare glass, all coreing and stringers removed. My question is: Is it a good idea from a strength perspective to add a fiberglass fillet to the interior of the chine and a good idea to fill the lifting strakes with glass before I install the stringers/bulkheads? I have attached an illustration for clarity.
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#2
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I'm not a glass expert, but if your hull originally had a core then I'd reinstall a core after the strakes were filled. I would run the new floor from side to side resting atop the stringers where your fillet comment is in the drawing. If it's an outboard boat, be sure to add large transom knees for support. Hope this helps.
#3
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Depends on the boat. If it's a chopper gun layup, you're wasting your time and money- unless you want to overlay both sides with cloth, you won't be strengthening anything regardless of what you do. And, all additional material adds weight which equals reduced performance.
And, as mentioned, coring is crucial. Coring works like an "I" beam. Instead of one massive piece of steel, the "I" beam uses two "skins" tied together with a core. In steel, it's the top and bottom being the skins and the core being the center web- same strength as a solid piece -in the direction of the load- but much less weight. No core, no load-carrying ability and failure is mere moments away. It's tough to re-core. The core was bonded in wet originally. You have to get that inner surface completely flat, then lay in a bonding layer of wetted cloth- then force the core into it to get a good bond. All before the resin sets.
And, as mentioned, coring is crucial. Coring works like an "I" beam. Instead of one massive piece of steel, the "I" beam uses two "skins" tied together with a core. In steel, it's the top and bottom being the skins and the core being the center web- same strength as a solid piece -in the direction of the load- but much less weight. No core, no load-carrying ability and failure is mere moments away. It's tough to re-core. The core was bonded in wet originally. You have to get that inner surface completely flat, then lay in a bonding layer of wetted cloth- then force the core into it to get a good bond. All before the resin sets.
#4
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Send me some photo's and I can give you an idea of what
to do. You can use a diffrent cloth and help some. The strake fill can be purchased and providing you use the correct resin you have plenty of time even into 48 hours aftert hte glass has cured. you will still get the chemical bond your looking for.
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Bill
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Bill
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