US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Yes, leveling was set, then gain, then fine tune the leveling. According to the owners manual I DL from the website. Don't know if it makes a difference that the manual doesn't mention EOH setups. I just assume that is irrelevant. I may be turning the knobs too much each time instead of just a tic.

I bled the system to no end.

When I got to the lake after the 2 hr trip, my brakes where hot and grease was pushing the plugs out. Almost like they where dragging.

Kims

Think about it. When you apply brakes on the trailer the momentum shifts forward and down, leaving the rearmost axle with the least amount of wight on the tires... Google some trailer and check it out.

Rippem

Chris sent me these brand new wheel cylinders.

Good Kharma to you Chris. This helps me out alot right now.

Thank you,
Randy

RedDog382

In honor of Nort who sent me a blank dash panel, and all the others who have helped me out along the way!

Glad I could help you out. They would have probably sat there on the shelf collecting rust otherwise.

Just keeping the brotherhood alive, even if we can't afford the gas ...

Rippem

well, after much stressing over the coin and deliberation over the neccesity...

having the boat off the trailer, up on jackstands in my building, drum assemblies completely removed ...
the only thing salvagable was the backing plates.
Glazed, cracked and grease contaminated shoes, bad wheel cylinders, weak hardware I'm sure...
you get the idea
though those Chinese bearings and races (and my spindles!)are in excellent condition...thanks Mystic JT-6!!

the drums need turning as they are glazed also...

I ordered the Kodiak 13" integral hub/rotors in E-coat from Southwest Wheel today,
along with a complete BrakeRite SD system.
$312.95 an axle for the Kodiaks
$799.95 for the BrakeRite SD complete kit.
fair pricing on the Kodiaks for sure...
300lbs truck frieght from Texas to a Con Way dock an hour south of me...
$114 bucks, not bad at all IMO.

I'll have to come up with 6 soft lines to the calipers from another source as all they sell is complete trailer line "kits"...and I have most all line(s) already in place

for a controller...they are telling me P-3 or Odyssey with the BR SD?
I didn't order either as I may do the MaxBrake if I can manage to bite off the $.

If I'm only going to do this once, I want to do it RIGHT!

the axles have been sanded/wet sanded (they weren't too bad really chipped up and light rust) and painted with two coats of acetone thinned gloss black Rustoleum and a horsehair type brush from spindle to spindle...flowed out so well you'd think they were sprayed!!
replaced 3 bunks with splits
all bunks have been removed, stripped, and had all the sharp corners and edges massaged/radiused
all new bunk carpet
very few cosmetics flaws in the trailer finish (black) as the trailer has always been inside, overall condition is excellent...
looks even better after an afternoon with Mequires cleaner/wax!
6 new Bridgestone V-Steel RIB 245E's. $50 apiece as 0 mile GM HD take-offs. The OEM Merits have some weatherchecking around near the beads, and have been exposed some seriously high heat in those dragging drum brake incidents...
Time for them to go, BEFORE one fails...

still debating tool boxes. I have it narrowed to the best buys at each finish and price point.

so anyway, if anyone needs those wheel cylinders that RedDog so graciously sent to me, let me know and I will pass them on.

any experiences with controllers mated to the BrakeRite SD?

do I balance the new tires?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the Voyager controller with my Brakerite and hate it. If it operates the way it does now, I made a big mistake changing from surge. As I read up on the Voyager, it's really not a good EOH controller and I'm thinking it's time to replace it. Was thinking going to the P3 as it's the next step up, but that Maxbrake looks to be the best. Going spend 150, might as well hit it another 200 and be done with it. Works off actual brake pressure, not a converted motion/G-force reading.

Question for the EOH users,...
are you having to change the gain at the ramp as soon as the boat is off the trailer? As soon as I get to the top of the ramp unloaded and hit the brakes, damn trailer wheels lock up. Seems like alot of tinkering is needed for the EOH setup everytime the boat is loaded and unloaded.

Barrydet

Hi Folks: I have been monitoring this thread closely as I am all about stopping trailers properly. Rippem, I also pull a 353 behind my Excursion PSD. I use a tri-axle (16in wheels) made by Magnum Trailers of Austin, Texas. When we built the trailer, I chose an EOH brakerite system with disc units on all wheels. The EOH/disc system works like a charm.

I chose to install a "tru-control" brake controller sold by Hensley manufacturing. The "tru-control" has an easily adjustable gain that is set for trailer weight-easlly changed from an empty trailer to a loaded trailer. That keeps me from locking trailer brakes when the trailer is empty. The "tru-control" device also contains an accelerometer that changes the strength of the electric signal according to the rate of deceleration as the brakes are applied. That feature makes for very smooth stops.

For those of you chosing to not equip all axles with brakes, at least start from the front axle and work towards the rear most axle as money permits. When vehicles stop, the center of gravity shifts forward-that is why our front brakes work harder than the rear. Also, don't forget your break away system. Many States require your trailer to have the ability to activate the brakes should the trailer leave the towing unit. Hope this info is useful to all...

Rippem

I'm headed that way....

Rippem

Mine is a 10400 Eagle Premier triple with 6K Axis 4" drop axles.
My 3rd Eagle
It's too bad they had business issues, they always made a sweet HD trailer with lots of crossmembers, heavy material, clean welds, nice paint and finish work.

I've heard of the Hensley. I question the inertia controllers ability to acurately sense the decceleration effect of the engine braking downshifting when my Allison is in tow/haul and I am light on the brake pedal? Now that I think about it...that would be a question with the MaxBrake or BrakeSmart type controller also...
Anybody?

I am going all axles. Thought about the front two and adding the 3rd later, but I've got it all apart and up in the air now...

The BrakeRite SD comes with everything ...pump, pump mounting bracket, brain, dual (9 amp (18 amps) battery breakaway kit, and a nice weatherpack plug and play wiring harness.

remember the BrakeRite EOH needs 15 amps to meet the "hold in place for 15 mins." DOT regs. A single 5 amp battery, or even a single 9 amp is not enough! At full lock one of these pumps will kill a single battery in just a few minutes from what I understand.